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Seadoo Utopia 2001 240 EFI Crank Position Sensor replacement

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robinzon

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Hey all,

My friend has Utopia 205 with 240 EFI. His boat would not start this season, so after a rather unpleasant encounter with an unscrupulous mechanic who immediately decided a new engine block is needed (seriously?!? no diagnostics), he got the boat back and after going through threads here and in the service manual we have isolated the problem to be a fault Crank Position sensor as it reads 0 on the ohmmeter (320 normal) and no spark at the plugs.

At any rate, new CPS is on it's way however we are having a hard time removing the bolts holding the CPS in place. They seem to be 8mm metric bolts as 16/52 did not work. It is a very tight space and I was wondering if anyone figured out what WRENCH works as flex wrenches are too thick in the ring and stuby`s may not have enough of an arm. He has been back and forth from Home Depot (I am not around today to play with it). I don't want to reinvent the wheel on this one, and removing the FLYWHEEL is not something that we want to get into (to get a socket wrench in)... any ideas would be appreciated, I have been thinking of getting a Bionic Grip to get in there....

Thanks
 
The 2001 240 EFI doesn't have a crank position sensor. It has a trigger ring for ignition, and gets it's RPM from the stator.

Post a pic of the part you are asking about.
 
The 2001 240 EFI doesn't have a crank position sensor. It has a trigger ring for ignition, and gets it's RPM from the stator.

Post a pic of the part you are asking about.

I stand corrected it is a 2002 Utopia, and it does indeed have a Crank Shaft position sensor, which I am trying to remove. THe bolts are hard to access under the flywheel, they are 8mm it seems but a bit soft.
 
OK...

If you do have a crank position sensor... then you have one of the optimax engines... and NOT the 240 EFI. Every one of the Merc engines is different... so you need to tell us exactly what you have.

Seadoo used: 210 with carbs, 200 Optimax, 240 EFI, 250 Optimax. (and a couple freak 175 carbs engines) AND... there are 2 versions of the 240 EFI.

Anyway... I think you are making it hard on yourself. I can't tell you what size bolt it's using off the top of my head... but if you can't really get to it... pull the flywheel. It's really not that hard. I can have one off faster than it takes to get the tools out of the garage. AND... if you break the bolts holding it... you will cause more work for yourself, and still have to pull it.

Finally... the Merc engines are a mix of metric and American. SO... honestly... it's whatever fits the bolt properly.
 
OK...

If you do have a crank position sensor... then you have one of the optimax engines... and NOT the 240 EFI. Every one of the Merc engines is different... so you need to tell us exactly what you have.

Seadoo used: 210 with carbs, 200 Optimax, 240 EFI, 250 Optimax. (and a couple freak 175 carbs engines) AND... there are 2 versions of the 240 EFI.

Anyway... I think you are making it hard on yourself. I can't tell you what size bolt it's using off the top of my head... but if you can't really get to it... pull the flywheel. It's really not that hard. I can have one off faster than it takes to get the tools out of the garage. AND... if you break the bolts holding it... you will cause more work for yourself, and still have to pull it.

Finally... the Merc engines are a mix of metric and American. SO... honestly... it's whatever fits the bolt properly.


It is definitely 240 EFI with CPS... the crankwheel has a yellow plastic insert on top, so what's the easiest way to remove it (and replace so that timing stays)?
 
OK... you actually caught me in a mess up. (congrats, LOL)

Anyway... yes... the V2 240 EFI has a CPS. But, the above comments still apply.

The yellow plastic cover is just to keep water out of the flywheel threads. You can put a thin, flat screwdriver in, beside it... and pop it out. For there... take off the crank nut, and pull the flywheel. It should have 3 bolt holes for a conventional puller... but the thread in puller works much better.

One last thought... spray the bolts with a penetrating oil, and let it soak for a few hours before doing anything. That will help break up any corrosion.
 
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