Seadoo Speedster SK

[candiapa]

I have a 1999 Speedster Sk with twin Rotax 720's. Since my fuel gauge is not working so I attempted to fix the fuel baffle myself. The reconnection markings (to connect the fuel hoses back to the baffle) rubbed off. I know the baffle has markings ON, RES VENT and RET. I have a Speedster SK shop manual but the Fuel circuit diagram does not show ON, RES, VENT and RET. All I see is 4 tubes connecting to a baffle. So here's my question (and this is based on what I see in the fuel circuit drawing)

One Tube comes from the fuel baffle goes to a fuel filter and then to the fuel pump (Left Engine) - I Think this should be ON
One Tube comes from the fuel baffle goes to a fuel filter and then to the fuel pump (Right Engine) - I Think this should be RES
One Tube comes from the fuel baffle goes to a vent port - I think this should be VENT
One Tube comes from the fuel baffle and T-Splits to each carburetor - I think this should be RET

Can someone please confirm if I have this right?

 

[snikwad003]

You have it right. You can confirm on and res by spraying some carb cleaner in the top and see where it comes out the bottom. Happy wrenching:cheers:

 

[candiapa]

snikwad003,

Much appreciated for the confirmation

 

[To2d]

i also have 1999 SK and also have a bad fuel gauge.

Can you walk me through what you did to fix the fuel gauge issue?

 

[candiapa]

To2d,

I first removed the fuel baffle from the boat. I then removed the bottom (screen) real easy to do it's just held in with plastic clips. Inside the tube there is a foam like structure with 2 magnets (one magnet was missing from the foam like structure). I removed the foam like structure and replaced with another part. If you go to Amazon and search for "SeaDoo Genuine Fuel Float Repair Kit Kit SP SPI SPX GT GTI GTS GTX XP RX 295500438" you will see the replacement part. Before reinstalling, the fuel baffle back in the boat, I did a resistance check. I inserted the new fuel level float (white in color) into the baffle. I then connected an Ohm meter to the fuel baffle electrical connector. I slowly allowed the new level float to move down the length of the fuel baffle while monitoring the resistance. I forget the exact values but if you search the forms you will find them. Basically your looking that the resistance varies from around 0 ohms - when the float is near the top, to a max of around 95 ohms when float is down at the bottom. Once this check is Ok reinstall the screen at the bottom of the baffle and then reinstall the baffle back in the fuel tank.

NOTE: The above assumes there is no issue with your F1 fuse. There is a fuse inside the fuel baffle that can blow. If replacing the fuel level float doesn't work (doesn't pass the resistance test) most likely it's your F1 fuse. Search the forums (and youtube) to find detail instructions on what to do with the F1 fuse.

 

[To2d]

Great info! This spring I will have to tackle this project. Sounds like an easier fix then I thought. I understood the basics of the fix but this gives me a great step by step. I take it this fixed it on your boat. Thank you Candiapa.

BTW.... I see you have had your SK for about a year. Me too. I have done a few great mods to mine with step by step instructions that I posted. "stereo, voltmeter, trim tab, ski mirror,..." I even found a way to make it quieter at idol. Enjoy!

 

[candiapa]

To2d,

I read your post on the trim tab - very nice. I definitely have to try this. But I have concerns about drilling holes in the boat. Is it possible that the drilled holes leak after a while? I also saw in the pictures you had to cut a hold in the trim tab mount plate to allow for the drain plug to screw in. Would you say that it was quite easy to do this mod?

 

[To2d]

Small holes and I sealed them up with marine sealant.

I'm not worried at all. In the beginning I had the same worries so i had my step-dad help me. He has designed and built mega yachts in the northwest for years. He has put a few "intentional" holes in some very expensive boats. figured my little guy was no problem. He watched and i drilled. Looking back i didn't need his help but it was nice to know an old pro was by my side.

It was an easy mod and well worth it. the acceleration is night and day and how it rides in choppy water is amazing.

Take your time and mark your holes. The secret is to lay down painters tape, mark the tape, and drill into the tape. you will have to move the drain hole up a little but that is easy and use some of the marine sealant on the mounting bracket around where the hole was.

 

[To2d]

To2d,

I first removed the fuel baffle from the boat. I then removed the bottom (screen) real easy to do it's just held in with plastic clips. Inside the tube there is a foam like structure with 2 magnets (one magnet was missing from the foam like structure). I removed the foam like structure and replaced with another part. If you go to Amazon and search for "SeaDoo Genuine Fuel Float Repair Kit Kit SP SPI SPX GT GTI GTS GTX XP RX 295500438" you will see the replacement part. Before reinstalling, the fuel baffle back in the boat, I did a resistance check. I inserted the new fuel level float (white in color) into the baffle. I then connected an Ohm meter to the fuel baffle electrical connector. I slowly allowed the new level float to move down the length of the fuel baffle while monitoring the resistance. I forget the exact values but if you search the forms you will find them. Basically your looking that the resistance varies from around 0 ohms - when the float is near the top, to a max of around 95 ohms when float is down at the bottom. Once this check is Ok reinstall the screen at the bottom of the baffle and then reinstall the baffle back in the fuel tank.

NOTE: The above assumes there is no issue with your F1 fuse. There is a fuse inside the fuel baffle that can blow. If replacing the fuel level float doesn't work (doesn't pass the resistance test) most likely it's your F1 fuse. Search the forums (and youtube) to find detail instructions on what to do with the F1 fuse.

I'm about to start this project... I guess I am excited to get the boat all done. "Plus the 295500438 float Kit came today"

Do you have any advice to make the baffle removal easier or tips on taking on this project other then labeling the lines?

 

[racerxxx]

Make a mark on the black boot and on the tank so you line the fuel baffle back up correctly and you're not clocked one tube off, use a silver sharpie marker. Take pics and label the lines.

 

[candiapa]

A few more tips since this repair is still fresh in my mind.

a) I removed all 4 hoses first (remember the fuel baffle is marked already with RES, VENT, ON, and RET) - If you read my initial post to this thread I've identified where all the hoses should go.
b) The fuel baffle has three hose clamps - loosen them all. One doesn't need loosening but I did it any way.
c) Grab the rubber seal (where the clamps are around) and pull up with a gentle rocking motion - side to side
d) If you end up applying a lot of force and the baffle refuses to budge make sure all clamps are lose.
e) It's true if you try to pull the baffle straight up it will not come out. As you pull up, and come close to pulling the baffle out, angle it slightly and it should come right out. If your applying a lot of force your doing it wrong.

Make sure all fuel hoses are plugged, including the tank.

Hopefully you can see the picture I attached which shows the fuel line routing to the fuel baffle - For a 1999 Seadoo Speedster SK


Regarding the 4 fuel lines if you want I can provide

 

[candiapa]

To2d,

Sorry I posted the wrong picture. This is the picture I wanted to post

 

[racerxxx]

Here's a fullsize version

 

[To2d]

this is awesome!

thank you so much for all the info!

i will try to take pics to post

 

[To2d]

Done!
Had to install both the fuel baffle kit and solder the F1 fuse to make this work.

End result... Working fuel gauge!

Still will manually check Fuel level with my eyes because...Well, it's a boat and never 100% trust a boat's fuel gauge

 

[candiapa]

Great, I'm glad it worked out for you.

 

[Lumps]

good work! its nice when you get something like that working! grats!