Seadoo Speedster 98 after long period "not on water"

[Mulder_den]

Hello.
I've got Seadoo Speedster 98 after more than 1 year in garage...
What should I check?
Engines looks good. After replacing battery I've started engines for 30sec. Sounds good.
How to check oil lines? Should I change oil lines from oil pump to carbs?
Any other checkpoints?

Thank you.

 

[LouDoo]

Oil lines, check to see if they are painted if they are replace them with 3/32" tygon, if they are not flexible, replace them.

Lou

 

[Mulder_den]

Oil lines, check to see if they are painted if they are replace them with 3/32" tygon, if they are not flexible, replace them.

Lou

Yes. They are painted... Looks like changing oil lines will be a little challenge. They are not so easy accessible...
Is it possible to clean oil filters? Or should I buy only new?

 

[Mulder_den]

I'm curious, why Rotax didn't do these lines from metal? Like fuel or brake lines in cars.
So many engines died because of broken oil lines...

 

[Coastiejoe]

I'm curious, why Rotax didn't do these lines from metal? Like fuel or brake lines in cars.
So many engines died because of broken oil lines...

Money,,,, If it cost BRP more, it will cost the buyer more.

 

[Coastiejoe]

After sitting for a year or so, there is a good chance the oil from the tank has seeped past the crankshaft seal and entered the lower crank case. Once you crank the engine the oil will be sucked into the cylinders and lock the engine up. I suggest pulling the spark plugs before you crank the engine..

 

[Mulder_den]

After sitting for a year or so, there is a good chance the oil from the tank has seeped past the crankshaft seal and entered the lower crank case. Once you crank the engine the oil will be sucked into the cylinders and lock the engine up. I suggest pulling the spark plugs before you crank the engine..

I've already started engines for 30 sec...
But after Yamaha 2-cycle engine, Rotax with rotary valve confused me... I have Yamaha 800GP 98 also...

 

[racerxxx]

If you pull the air boxes it will be easy to get to the oil lines. Also, remove the back engine cover. I wouldn't even think of doing that job unless that was off. Spray the screws from the underside for a few days. Then work them back and forth until they come out. TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You do not want to snap these. Take they off from the boat side, not the hood side. At the end of the hood strut there is a metal clip that you need to pop out----not OFF. That will release the capture of the ball on the hood. I also wedge a bath towel between the hood and the boat. I can remove the hood solo, but it's heavy and awkward. I have a 6 foot wingspan so it's easy to grab the handle and the top of the hood where the ski pylon come thru.


Rotary valve is a piece of cake. Literally, it's the same size of cake I like. I don't know, I couldn't imaging working on a reed engine any more. The RV is so simple.

 

[racerxxx]

Oh, and the entire time you're backing the screws out spray them

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[Mulder_den]

If you pull the air boxes it will be easy to get to the oil lines. Also, remove the back engine cover. I wouldn't even think of doing that job unless that was off. Spray the screws from the underside for a few days. Then work them back and forth until they come out. TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You do not want to snap these. Take they off from the boat side, not the hood side. At the end of the hood strut there is a metal clip that you need to pop out----not OFF. That will release the capture of the ball on the hood. I also wedge a bath towel between the hood and the boat. I can remove the hood solo, but it's heavy and awkward. I have a 6 foot wingspan so it's easy to grab the handle and the top of the hood where the ski pylon come thru.


Rotary valve is a piece of cake. Literally, it's the same size of cake I like. I don't know, I couldn't imaging working on a reed engine any more. The RV is so simple.

Done!
1 of 6 bolts is broken... Will try to drill it out. :-/

 

[racerxxx]

Bummer. When it goes back together use never seize or grease on the screws, plenty of it. You might want to pick up a good 6mm tap and chase the screw holes.

You're gonna like working on the boat this way. I'll only winterize and change spark plugs with the lid on, other than that it's off.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[Mulder_den]

Can anybody tell me fuel filters model/part number?
And I see that oil lines from oil pump to carbs without any clamps/clips. Should be here anything?

 

[LouDoo]

The fuel filters are inside the carbs., clean them with a water soluble cleaner like SuperClean or Purple Power. If you are rebulding the carbs., you should have new filters in the kit.

The oil lines should have small otiker clamps, use small zip ties to replace them.

Lou

 

[Mulder_den]

The fuel filters are inside the carbs., clean them with a water soluble cleaner like SuperClean or Purple Power. If you are rebulding the carbs., you should have new filters in the kit.

The oil lines should have small otiker clamps, use small zip ties to replace them.

Lou

I see in-line filters in fuel lines.
And here:
http://www.sea-doo.net/SHOPMANUALS/JETBOATS/1998-1999/JBOAT_A/1998/LMR98V2A.PDF
Page 127 and 130.

 

[racerxxx]

Yes, those are inline fuel filters. You could use a Fram g4. The oem ones are nla, but they are on eBay now and again.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[Mulder_den]

Should I change oil lines from oil tank to oil pump also?

 

[racerxxx]

Just change the 3/32 lines from the pump to the intake, that's it. The rest are fine. Change the oil pump filters.

 

[Mulder_den]

Yes, those are inline fuel filters. You could use a Fram g4. The oem ones are nla, but they are on eBay now and again.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

I can't find Fram G4. Is there any analogues?

 

[howie099]

You just need a automotive 1/4 or 5/16 fuel filter depending on your feed line since. I just the clear glass type that you can change the filter inside and change the fittings to whatever size you want. Automotive speed shops will sell this type of filter also.

 

[racerxxx]

Fuel line is 5/16 on the speedster so grab a filter that's for that size

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[Mulder_den]

Bummer. When it goes back together use never seize or grease on the screws, plenty of it. You might want to pick up a good 6mm tap and chase the screw holes.

You're gonna like working on the boat this way. I'll only winterize and change spark plugs with the lid on, other than that it's off.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

What I found...
To remove engine cover you shouldn't remove 6 screws. Just remove these shafts.

 

[Mulder_den]

Old and new oil filters. Not bad. Looks the same, but directions are different.


One oil line is VERY difficult to change! It's under carbs and almost not accessible!
Is it ok that I fix them with zip-ties? Or here should be special clamps?

 

[racerxxx]

What I found...
To remove engine cover you shouldn't remove 6 screws. Just remove these shafts.
View attachment 32956View attachment 32957

I don't think mine have that cotter pin like yours do. But now I have so much never seize on mine it's easy to remove.


And the cable ties are just fine for those lines.

 

[Mulder_den]

After changing filters, oil and fuel lines we have some air inside. Maybe for first ride do 1/60 premix also?

 

[racerxxx]

I would mix the first tank @50/1.


On the front of the oil pump there is a 7mm screw, loosen that and let the oil flow to bleed the line, then tighten it up. You should not have to remove it all the way. There is a thin washer/seal under the head of that screw, don't lose it if you remove it. Then pour a few cap fulls of oil thru the carbs, start the engine and reach in front of the engine and turn the oil pump lever to simulate a wide open throttle run and watch the oil pump thru the lines. You're not using the throttle to raise the engine rpm, but just the lever on the oil pump while at idle.