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seadoo sp 587 3300rpm limit

12splash

Member
Hello everyone, i have a 1994 sp 587 giving me grief !!! I purchased it last sept knowing it was locked, well not totally locked, crank would turn 1/2 inch either way, so i knew the issue, or i thought i did, but didnt want to say, just to get the best price. So it had the suspected bent rod from likely being swamped. I rebuilt the crankshaft, new bearings ect, used the same pistons, new rings and gaskets and seals. So this is my first dealing with a rotary valve type induction , the ski came with a full service manual, so with all the checking of the valve assembly it was quite out of spec , it had some wear on the block side a groove 1/4 x 3/4 about 4 thou deep, so i prepped it for some jb weld, the valve itself was full of groves so i replaced new from sbt and of course the housing was grooved as well, i turned the housing to meet the specs precisely. Next a full rebuild of carb, and back in. Now this is the issue, it starts easily and instantly and runs like a new one !!! get into the throttle till about 3300-3400rpm then bog tons of smoke, like its at the limiter, this is all out of water in the shop, fresh mixed fuel, previous owner did the delete which i tidied up, perfectly timed, new plugs, boots ect, i didnt skip out any where, pop off at 27-28lbs factory jetting its a mikuni bn34-28-8010 my book shows a 1.5n/s but the seedoo site chart shows a 2.0 so i purchased one of those and still no change. Itook it north to the lake thinking i would tie it to the dock to make tuning more precise and have water to cool the bearing, like i said it runs perfect at dock, so out i go..... yup 3300rpm, back in i go, seat back off head back in.......cant get my head wrapped around the problem the carb not transitioning ????? did some carb adj. and back out i go ,no seat.... guess what happens!!! yup it was tippy over it went and sunk ,now im swimming it back under water fully clothed end of march.... it almost got a match and lighter fluid !! anyway faulty cdi pack ??? I've had this apart at least 5 times checking r/v clearances ,pop off ect, last time just yesterday, carb again, I'm really not rookie but what could i be missing ????? could i try one of those cheap aftermarket cdi packs ?? Can someone help BAIL me out !!!! thanks David.
 
When I have to deal with the rotary valve, If the paint on the cover bolts is intact, where it appears the rotary valve cover has never been removed, I assume the rotary valve is placed on the splines in the proper place, so I mark the valve and the splines on the shaft, with a dot of white-out to be sure it gets back like it was originally. I wouldn't use JB Weld to fill any grooves, or turn the rotary valve cover either, but I do check the clearance. Also check the squish gap too, before removing the cylinders, that way I know what thickness of base gasket to buy. Which to believe, .... the original printed factory repair manual or a website?
Best of luck David.
 
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