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Seadoo Oil Substitutes?
- Thread starter DiveMode
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Hey Greg, here is the standards of the oil to use. I only use Seadoo oil.
Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reaction will cause severe engine damage. Never mix Mineral or synthetics oil together.
Never use fuel containing more than 10 % alcohol,( Methanol or Ethanol) as severe damage will occur. The minimum of 87 octane is recommended for most engines.
Karl
Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reaction will cause severe engine damage. Never mix Mineral or synthetics oil together.
Never use fuel containing more than 10 % alcohol,( Methanol or Ethanol) as severe damage will occur. The minimum of 87 octane is recommended for most engines.
Karl
I have 3 seadoo dealers in my back yard...I also have a seadoo dealer that went out of business with lots of supplies left over. Oil can get expensive shipping ups.
Quicksilver...
I use the Quicksilver brand synthetic from my local Wally World. The nearest Seadoo dealer from me is almost 2 hours. This is my second season on the oil and it seems to perform as well as the Seadoo oil. The plugs read well and when I removed the head this past winter season, the pistons looked well too.
You have to make sure you get the correct brand though. It says on the back label as usuable with Seadoo........they have the mineral and synthetic blend. Make sure you don't mix the two. If your unsure what your running now, change it completly out.........
:cheers:
I use the Quicksilver brand synthetic from my local Wally World. The nearest Seadoo dealer from me is almost 2 hours. This is my second season on the oil and it seems to perform as well as the Seadoo oil. The plugs read well and when I removed the head this past winter season, the pistons looked well too.
You have to make sure you get the correct brand though. It says on the back label as usuable with Seadoo........they have the mineral and synthetic blend. Make sure you don't mix the two. If your unsure what your running now, change it completly out.........
:cheers:
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
Not trying to start a debate but just wanted every ones idea about this statement. I have read by one of the most respected pwc mechanics on the web that there are many other pwc manufactures that have the same bearings and pistons made by the same company and have the same rpms as seadoo and have different recomendations on oil then seadoo. his comment was how do these pistons and bearings know which engine they are inside of. and he has also stated that he has never seen an engine fail do to wrong oil. he is over 60 years old as he is the oldest pwc mechanic repairing pwc's longer than anyone else i have ever known. I myself have never seen a engine fail in 20 + years do to the type of oil it has. It has been a lack of oil that caused engine failures that I have seen. What do you you think? please all respond. :cheers:
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challenger18
New Member
I have used quicksilver in my challenger with the efi M2 since I bought it and have never had any problems, it runs great, plus quicksilver is cheaper and easy to find. I dont care where you live, you have a wal-mart near by.
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
Dont get me wrong I use quick silver allso as I believe it will give me extra protection than a regular cheap 2 cycle oil. :cheers:
imnothot02
New Member
Ive been told by multiple mechanics latley that the quicksilver isnt as good as the seadoo brand, somthing about ash and molecular stcructure, idk..
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
Were they seadoo mechanics? If so I wander why they would say that. Do you think they want you to buy their oil?
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.....hmmmm
Makes you wonder, huh Robin. I'm going to agree with Robin on this one!...If they were the ones selling the oil, then yes, of course they will tell you the stuff is so heavy, it will sink your boat. But that's a little far fetched so they try to sound scientific with the "molecular structure" bull crap.
Look at the bottle of Quicksilver Synthetic, which is what I've used now for 2 seasons. On the back of the bottle, it states it meets Seadoo's requirements. If they didn't meet those requirements, dont' you think Seadoo would be sueing them. Or do you think Quicksilver would even use their name. That's false advertising. And in the manual, Seadoo states to use Seadoo oil, but if it's not available, use a low ash, non NMMA, non TCW3 oil. So even Seadoo is telling you it's o.k. to run another oil. The best oil on the market for these things now, is the AMSOIL, by all the articles I've read lately anyway.
Quicksilver does make several types of oil, so make sure you read the back of the bottle. And if your using synthetic, that's what you want to continue to use. Don't just add a different type oil. If your going from mineral to synthetic, vac out the oil system and replace.
Makes you wonder, huh Robin. I'm going to agree with Robin on this one!...If they were the ones selling the oil, then yes, of course they will tell you the stuff is so heavy, it will sink your boat. But that's a little far fetched so they try to sound scientific with the "molecular structure" bull crap.
Look at the bottle of Quicksilver Synthetic, which is what I've used now for 2 seasons. On the back of the bottle, it states it meets Seadoo's requirements. If they didn't meet those requirements, dont' you think Seadoo would be sueing them. Or do you think Quicksilver would even use their name. That's false advertising. And in the manual, Seadoo states to use Seadoo oil, but if it's not available, use a low ash, non NMMA, non TCW3 oil. So even Seadoo is telling you it's o.k. to run another oil. The best oil on the market for these things now, is the AMSOIL, by all the articles I've read lately anyway.
Quicksilver does make several types of oil, so make sure you read the back of the bottle. And if your using synthetic, that's what you want to continue to use. Don't just add a different type oil. If your going from mineral to synthetic, vac out the oil system and replace.
DiveMode
New Member
I sure appreciate everyone stepping in to voice their opinions! Quicksilver it is! I've got a wally weird right by me, so that's probably going to be the option I go with. Tired of waiting for oil to arrive by mail. Any hey... SNIPE.. thanks for the thought on vacuuming out the system first. The guy I bought the boat from blocked off the oil injecters and premixed the oil & gas. I thought about hooking them back up but people say it's better to just mix the oil & gas & not worry about the oil pump going kaput then burning your engine. Or... I could be wrong??? Chime in & let me know if I should hook up the oil pump again!!
Injector pump...
It's true that you have less concerns over damage to the engine in a premix situation but the cost of oil and gas these days, may be worth connecting the injectors back up.
With the last owner going premix, I hope the injector tank was left in place and the rotary chamber still flooded with oil.
There are several post in the forum on how to syncronize your oil pump to your carbs........this is of utmost importance. At the moment, I syncronized during the winter after testing for flow, then, increased the oil flow just a tad more......because of the engines age, I wanted to put a tiny bit more oil lin for extra protection.
I used a shop vac, disconnected my rotary chamber vent line that goes to the top of the oil tank and that's how I sucked it out. I also removed and replaced the oil filter that comes from the bottom of the tank to the injector pump. You won't need to remove that pump to vent the lines since your already running premix. But I'd continue premix for at least another full tank of gas, then check for oil at the throttle body intakes.......:cheers:
It's true that you have less concerns over damage to the engine in a premix situation but the cost of oil and gas these days, may be worth connecting the injectors back up.
With the last owner going premix, I hope the injector tank was left in place and the rotary chamber still flooded with oil.
There are several post in the forum on how to syncronize your oil pump to your carbs........this is of utmost importance. At the moment, I syncronized during the winter after testing for flow, then, increased the oil flow just a tad more......because of the engines age, I wanted to put a tiny bit more oil lin for extra protection.
I used a shop vac, disconnected my rotary chamber vent line that goes to the top of the oil tank and that's how I sucked it out. I also removed and replaced the oil filter that comes from the bottom of the tank to the injector pump. You won't need to remove that pump to vent the lines since your already running premix. But I'd continue premix for at least another full tank of gas, then check for oil at the throttle body intakes.......:cheers:
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