Rxp 215 injector cil3 8 second pulstime

[Achie]

Hi all,

(Wrong topic title, the right words: rxp 215 continue open/on injector cylinder 3 )

When i connect my learning key (yellow is damaged) the injector cylinder 3 starts injecting fuel( flooded cylinder). After cranking or starting the engine the injector cil3 stays open/on until there is no pressure anymore from the fuel rail.

All the injectors are working normal.


There is no diag tester available around here and hope someone have a clue for my brandnew rxp 215 (2008) with 15 hours running time ( 8 years owning a new machine and not using it...the day i want to use it it says dont :dupe: )

Some videos about my issue:

[video]https://youtu.be/sqZoguamlkE[/video]

[video]https://youtu.be/VnlRbdcfzgQ[/video]

[video]https://youtu.be/gz5_3mBr2t0[/video]

[video]https://youtu.be/O6uxK1W-aXU[/video]

Thanks.

 

[mkov608]

Achie, The pulse width of the injectors is controlled by the ECU; pulse width is typically in miliseconds. Additionally, there are many variables that the ECU uses to control pulse width. I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know, but if you've installed new injectors (you said you changed them, but with what?) and there is no damage to the electrical wiring (or induced voltage from another wire) to the injectors, it's possible you have a bad ECU. Has anyone recently attempted to jump start the ski? There are warnings in the owners manual about the potential of damaging the electronics if you attempt to jump start the ski.

Your problem description sounds odd; the fuel pump should pressurize the system when you install the key on the D.E.S.S. post to get the engine ready to start (pressurize the fuel rail). The injectors should not be opening when you install the key on the post. Otherwise you'd be shooting fuel into an engine the may or may not be started.

 

[Achie]

Mkov608 thanks for your reply, The original injectors are ok because they reacting normal when i changed there place. Never i had a jump start because the battery is new and works fine, cables are not damaged, no check engine light, the engine runs normal on two cylinders. When i check the pulse cyl3 when engine is running the injector stays open.

 

[mkov608]

Mkov608 thanks for your reply, The original injectors are ok because they reacting normal when i changed there place. Never i had a jump start because the battery is new and works fine, cables are not damaged, no check engine light, the engine runs normal on two cylinders. When i check the pulse cyl3 when engine is running the injector stays open.

Achie, you can't check a fuel injector like that. The signal to the injectors cycles from off to on many times per second (increased RPM = increased cycles). Think of a light bulb. Since you are in Morroco, you are probably on 220v 50 hz power. The light bulb is actually cycling on and off 50 times per second as the alternating current cycles from positive to negative. You just can't see it, and you can't measure that cycle with a multimeter. You need an oscilloscope. Now that's an example of AC power. Your fuel injector circuit is DC power, but with the ECU constantly signaling the injector to open and close (approximately two times per second at 1800 rpm) you get the same effect. Again, you can't measure that with a multimeter. Additionally, injectors are not servo valves, they are either open or closed ... they get a signal to open or they don't.

What happens with the ski when you install all the injectors and start it? Let us know what your symptoms are.

 

[Achie]

The only method (here) to determine if the injectors still ok is to change them from there places.

When i have everything plugged in the ski starts immediately and sounds normal. There is some white thick smoke and some fuel mixed with water (water hose connected). When i accelerate it shows that the engine is not running clear. While engine running i take off the injector plug3 and it keep running fine on two cylinders whitout smoke or fuel and water.

It seems (my theorie)
that the injector plug gives a continue "on" pulse and because there is no pressure anymore in the fuel rail (after the injector3 took it out) it stops injecting after 8 seconds. ,after this it drips / "peeing" the last fuel drips from the rail because there is no pressure anymore ( normaly if there is a pulse the injector do not drip). So my first mecanic didnt check everything and gave me wrong info what i used in my topic title...excuse me for this.

 

[mkov608]

Sorry, but what does "it shows that the engine is not running clear." What shows that the engine isn't running "clear" what does clear mean exactly?

How do you know there is no pressure in the fuel rail? All of the injectors are fed by the same rail; if you don't have fuel pressure to the #3 injector, you don't have pressure for #1 or #2.

 

[Achie]

Maybe wrong word "clear". Thick white smoke and the engine sound isnt normal when all the injectors are plugged. When i unplug connector #3 there is no white smoke anymore.

Railpressure:

After i conect the lanyard key the fuelpump pressurize the fuel rail and while doing this injector 3 starts to "leak" out the rail fuel (because the injector is "on"), after 8 seconds full pressure the injector starts peeing slowly and stops after some dripps . The rail is now depressured to less then the minimum pressure level wich the injector need.

 

[Achie]

https://youtu.be/sqZoguamlkE here a video about my issue.

 

[Achie]

cranking engine.

[video]https://youtu.be/VnlRbdcfzgQ[/video]

 

[Achie]

https://youtu.be/gz5_3mBr2t0 connector 3 on #2 and connector 2 on #3

 

[Achie]

https://youtu.be/O6uxK1W-aXU right/wrong ??? Voltage test.

 

[mkov608]

https://youtu.be/O6uxK1W-aXU right/wrong ??? Voltage test.

Achie, I see what you are attempting and understand you have limited resources. The positive side of the #3 injector wire (#1 and #2 too) goes right to the ECU; the negative side goes to ground.

Remove the electrical connector from the ECU, and check for continuity from the postive lead where it connects to the injector to ground. If you have continuity, it's a wiring problem, if you don't, I'd repalce the ECU. In my opinion, if the wiring is good, the ECU is the only thing that can cause the problem you are experiencing.

I also understand that nobody typically has used ECUs laying around. I've purchased used parts from Ski-doo, but ECUs typically sell very quickly.

K

 

[ski-d00]

I have seen this a few times before and was always a bad ECU. Try checking and cleaning all your ecu connections and terminals just to make sure you're making good contact.

I suggest trying to program a new normal key first but unlikely that it will fix it.

I could test your ecu and reset it to new(I have BUDS with megatech license) and program a new key if you sent me your ECU and your lcd gauge(they have to be married together via BUDS), but based on my experience with this issue, I still don't think it will fix it.

 

[mkov608]

Thanks for the cross-check Ski-d00!

 

[Achie]

Thanks guys for all the information , my ecu is bad have checked it with a guy from BRP after reading your messages. Hope soon to receive a ecu from my friend in Spain.