RXDI Limited RPM

[zitotc]

I've got (2) 2003 RXDI's. I am having a problem with one of them getting above 4,000rpm when in the water. "MAINT" and the red light flashes and the ski runs rough. I back off the throttle. warnings go away and all is fine below 4000rpm.

I cleaned the RAVE valves, replaced the plugs and it runs fine out of the water. Also, when I shut it off you can hear each of the RAVE valves closing so I beleive they are opening OK.

I also ran it out of the water alternating removing one plug wire and each cyclinder seems to run OK so I beleive the spark and fuel to the cylinders are OK. The nearest shop is about an hour away so I can't easily get any codes. I also disconnected power to try to reset Limp Mode in case it was activated.

Any ideas on what I can try? I will loose several weeks of water time if I have to pull it out and take it to a dealer and summer is winding down quickly.

Also, since I have the second ski I can swap parts to try to isolate the problem.

Thanks for any help you can give!

 

[MikeM-KTM450]

Same Problem

I just picked up a 2001 RX-DI, and Im having the exact same problems. Ive worked on all kinds of dirt bikes and cars, but Im a little stumped on this one.

Did you have any luck solving this issue?
If so...what fixed it?

Thanks, I appreciate the help.

Mike

 

[nswillin]

DI's

Hey Zito. Sorry about your problem. I do not have or work on the DI engines but do know a little bit about them from reading. From what I have found is when they are in perfect condition they are awesome, but when something goes wrong, it is very hard to diagnose the problem because of the complexity of the DI process.

The RAVE valves should not be the problem. If they were gummed up it would only cause some performance problems and would not actually shut down past a certain RPM, just bogg a little.

Basic operation of the DI system is when the piston reaches the right position, the MPEM opens the fuel injector and fuel is discharged into a cavity inside the direct injector.

Then, the direct injector opens and the fuel is discharged
into the combustion chamber by the compressed air which breaks the fuel up into a very fine mist in the process. This air/fuel mixture is then ignited by the spark plug.

If any of this process is disrupted somehow the engine will shut down form lack of fuel.

If a fault occurs and involves a limp home mode operation, the DI system will reduce engine RPM gradually to the proper level.

Only way to view these faults in the MPEM is to have the dealer look at it with the VCK (Vehicle Communication
Kit)

Hope this helps.

Ryan

 

[seadoosnipe]

Cleaning a shirt or trousers?....

So, seems like you've been to the cleaners!

I read your PM and was a bit P.O.'d because I hate seeing someone being taken advantage of like it appears these guys are doing to you. Either, you got a couple un-qualified mechanics or ones that are hungry and needing your money.

Let me start with the rectifier/regulator. What does this have to do with your problem? Nothing!.....beside, did they test it? It either works or it doesn't. There is no in between. The wearing ring. If you had the problem you stated, then I wonder if they took a measurement on the clearance before they decided to replace it. This would make the ski sit in one spot while you gave it throttle. You'd hit the rev limiter and it would stay there until the ski ran hot and shut down. I doubt it's your RAVE valves either. Everything these people checked, seemed to be things that a rip off shop does to keep you going back. The first thing they want to get your money for is the wearing ring. It's the biggest bang for their buck. Easy to change out and a good price from your wallet. You can do this job yourself for around $100 bucks or less.

If you decide to keep this ski, you are eventually going to have to buy a manual. Or become a premium member here. The reason is simple. Now that you've obviously had a problem with your DI system, it will continue to be a proplem. These are one of the hardest skis to troubleshoot because of all the components in this system. It's a high pressure fuel system with regulators, an air compressor, fuel pump amongst other items.........

Here, take a look at this page for me, you'll see what I'm talking about. http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=83&B=19

If you don't want to keep it, fix it and sell it while it's still fairly new. Use our search engine and type in DI....see what you come up with.

Not to put all DI's down. From the members I've heard from that had them in perfect running order, they are hard to compare to. They are awesome quick on the start, throttles up faster than any ski in it's class. But, it is a very intricate, tempremental system.

Good luck!.......oh, BTW, this thread your in was started back in August and the member hasn't been in the forum since September, so I doubt you get a reply. Also, if you think your coils are in question, you can test them too!:cheers:

 

[MikeM-KTM450]

Thanks

Thanks guys...Sorry, still new to how this forum talk works...

I have the shop manual on a CD, I bought it a while ago, I just never knew where to start. It seems you all have heard of this problem before, what should i start testing first in the DI system?

Is this a for sure fuel delivery isssue? (Even though fuel pressure is OK, I take it there could be other issues within the DI system)

Im taking it to the shop after the holidays to have them read out the codes like you said, but id like to start going through and checking maybe the sensors, injectors, compressor, valves ect to see if I can figure this SKI OUT!!

Thank you, appriciate your help...

Mike

 

[zitotc]

Found Problem

Sorry for the late reply. I did take it to the shop and they checked the codes. They said the problem was the resonator and hose to it plus the water valve.

I removed the hose and resonator and they were both "melted" apparently due to high heat. I replaced these and it works great now.