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running on trailer question

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dahman45

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I have a 96 xp when I start it on the trailer it has a really loud rattleing sound. My neighbor has one and I don't hear a rattle. Any idea as to what the rattleing is?

And when it's on the trailer and I give it a quick rev the engine goes crazy and revs really high and stays up in the rpms. Then when I go to shut it off the button doesn't stop it and pulling the lanyard doesn't either I have to pull the chocke to kill it. But if i start it and dont rev it it's ok. And the button will stop it.

Any ideas?
Thanks
 
will not shut down at all if you give it throttle? are you sure your throttle is not sticking?

Loud noise........your pump is not in the water
 
The reason for the run away rpm's is because of the heat build up in the engine. It is similar to a RC,(Radio Control) engine, that uses glow plugs and nitro methane fuel. If your engine is hot it will run away with rpm's and not stop even if you disconnect the spark plug wires, or lanyard. Choking it lets in more fuel that cools off he combustion chamber and it stalls. That's why you shouldn't over rev it in gear on the trailer with no water load on the impeller. If it just revs out of control by it's self you might have a air leak allowing the engine to lean out and over rev up on it's own.
If you haven't checked the oil in the jet pump it might be time as it will rattle some but if it is real loud it might need new pump oil change or some added to it. I have simple instructions on how to check it oil and how to replace it. I'll post it tomorrow, as I'm not on my puter where I have it stored to paste it in the forum.

Karl
 
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Literaly 5 secounds just 2 make sure it's starts b4 I take it out.
Also I just barely give it any throttle. It's not like I'm squeezing the trigger all hue way and holding it, it's just a light quick squeeze I barely move it a milimeter. And when it in the water I have no issues with it reving crazy. It's not really a big deal bc I barely do it but I just noticed my neighbor starting his and there was no can rattleing sound and he can give it a good rev and it comes right back down.
 
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I would use Wd-40, and spray around the carbs, and the cylinders with it running on the hose in the driveway, see if it starts to rev up on it own after you spray it. The wd-40 will add fuel to a air leak and cause the rpms to rise. If ir does you have a air leak which could lead to a seizure while running it on the water. It is more likely to race and over rev due to no friction or LOAD on the impeller being out of the water.

Here is info on the Jet pump oil;
The pump oil change

If you look into the nozzle in the rear of the ski you will see a cone with 3 screws and an oil filler allen screw.

To change it,
1) Take off 4 13 MM bolts holding nozzle and 10 MM bolt holding steering.

2) Get something to catch the old oil in, drain pan or margarine cup etc.... (don’t forget the nose plugs, the oil stinks to high heaven)

3) Remove the 3 8 mm bolts holding the cone on.

4) Pull the cone and drain the oil out. Prop the front of the trailer up as high as you can to get most of it out.

5) Inspect the rubber “o” ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.

6) Lower the front of the ski and add oil** to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.

7) Wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. Let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.

**NOTE: Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil Or
similar.


While it's apart check the spring and plunger in the cone cap. If it gets sloppy it will cause it to rattle. If it looks real worn replace it and it won't rattle so much till it wears out again...

Karl
 
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:agree:

That is a short amount of time, I agree with Karl that you may have a vaccume/air leak....as it could be small enough at idle to not notice it that mch but as soon as you give it enough gas/throttle it starts sucking, and once it starts it will get worse.....just a thought.....

great info Karl
 
So I need 2 start the engine then spray wd-40 around the carbs and the airbox? If there is some kind of leak what would I have 2 do or look for?
 
No, I said to spray around the carbs and the intake manifold,and the bottom of the cylinders. If you have a leaky Base gasket or carb/ manifold leak it will cause the engine rpm's to raise as the wd-40 adds fuel to the engine in place of the air it could be sucking in. Listen for a raise in the rpm's as you spray. If the rpm's don't go up then you don't have a leak here. Next you might want to do a compression check, and check the spark plugs to see if the water jacket is leaking inside the cylinders and allowing water to get sucked in while running. If the spark plugs have water droplets on the electrode then it might be internally. The hose doesn't run the same pressure as under way in the water cause it is just idling on the hose. When running in the water if that is the problem it won't over rev, but it could be sucking in water that could lead to seizure...You need to do process of elimination by testing for air leak then compression test. I'll post information on a compression test if you need it to do it properly. Check for air leak and spark plugs first.

Karl
 
runaway engine

Did you figure out what the problem was?
I am having the same problem and I want to check all possible causes to make sure I dont kill a freshly rebuilt engine before I have a chance to to it in the water.
 
Double..with new motor, i'd inspect everything...remove pipe and re-seal it, remove carbs, check that all screws are tight, check carb base gaskets,..EVERYTHING.
 
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