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Rotary Valve Question

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ellenor

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Since I posted in the wrong forum on this question, I wanted to ask it here since im sure some are or have done this. Long story short. My passenger side engine has a RV seal leaking oil. I want to pinch the line to it so after time I dont have to take the plugs out and shoot out the extra oil. Now there are two lines coming from the bottom of the oil tank. One line splits to two and the oil filters are right there. The other line is a little bit bigger and must split, but looks to split behind the engine according to the schematic I have read.
Here is the question...Which one can I pinch to stop oil from getting to the RV?
 
Each engine has 3 hoses. One hose feeds the pump. (with the filter) then one hose fills the RV gears (Under the intake manifold) and the other is the vent for the RV. (normally the opposite side of the engine case)

You need to pinch the feed, and the vent as close to the engine as possible. If you leave on open (or sightly open) the oil can still flow into the engine case.
 
Like I posted in your other thread, to get a good read on it you should do a pressure test of the R/V cavity. I have heard of the R/V having a slow leaks before, but it's not like it common. How did the guy come to the conclusion that gave it the "look over", or was it just an assumption on his part?

By pinching the supply side that will stop the flow of oil coming from the tank. But on the return side, which there will be oil in, you'll get a back flow from there. So, you technically won't be getting a good result from the test. To get to the R/V return side you can remove the band clamp around the from the main pipe to the cone pipe (there are two Socket head cap screws that hold the cone pipe to the engine case as well) that connects to the water box. With that part of the exhaust it will make it much easier to work on for getting to the return side. If it's your starboard engine there is a bit more room to work with and you might be able to get to it without removing the exhaust cone. In the service manual it will tell you how to do the pressure test of the R/V. If you can hold air pressure then you can hold oil, then you'll need to investigate the oil injection pump, there is a check valve in that which could fail, allowing oil to slowly drip from the oil injection nozzles into the crankcase. I guess a cheater way to check that would be to remove the carbs and look into the carb inlets of the R/V cover and rotate the engine so that the R/V would actually block one of the ports and you could see if oil starts to collect in that inlet versus draining into the crankcase. Either way, it doesn't seem to be leaking all that much. But to troubleshoot it will cost some time and tools.

But, it's not just a seal that you can replace. You'd need a whole new or remanufactured crankshaft. And to do that, you need to remove and tear down the entire engine. And while your in there, you might as well rebuild the engine. So I think it best to some how monitor just how much oil it does leak and if using the pincher will slow it down any. Once you can pinpoint the leak that will determine just how costly the repair is going to cost. Could be expensive, or it could be a $145 dollar oil pump, so you can see how important it is to finding the right defect.
 
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