Rotary Shaft removal??

[Arson Mfg]

Might as well say high since I'm a noob to the forum here...

I tore down the engine in my 00 gti today to see how much damage was done from rotary gear going out in my ski. Luckily there was no damage to anything internally except for the gear itself.

So now that everything is torn down I'm stumped on one thing... How do I remove the rotary shaft assembly from the case? I popped the C clip out on the valve side of the shaft but I'm a little nervous to start prying on the shaft to try and remove it.

Any help would be awesome!

Chris

 

[Arson Mfg]

So... just as I get done with my first post my roommate walks in and says hey I popped that out for you... Just gave it a little love and out it came.

So part two to my question... I noticed there was a little play between the retainer spring and the gear itself. Should there be some play so the gear can slide on the shaft freely about an 1/8th of an inch or so before it gets any pressure from the spring? Or should it be good and tight against the brass gear?

Thanks again,

Chris

 

[seadoosnipe]

Play...?

The manual shows no procedure for checking that clearance. I think, because once its installed, you'll be measuring the rotary clearance from the valve to the shaft cover. Which is .012" +/- .002". If the valve clearance is below the measurement, it will create an over heating situation for the engine, below and it'll be hard starting.

This procedure does call for the casing to be split, but from what I'm reading, that's only so you can measure shaft deflection......but I'm curious how the shaft blew out on you and there isn't any metal shavings in the crankcase. If there is and you leave them, they'll likely find their way into the crank bearings and it'll be next.

 

[Arson Mfg]

Thanks for the quick response, my question was about removing the shaft from the upper section of the case, but thats since been figured out obviously.

I've torn the motor down completely. There are brass shaving everywhere that need to be cleaned up, amazingly all of the bearings and everything else are in tip top shape so I guess I lucked out there! I was expecting the crank to be damaged along with bearing and was planning on just buying a rebuilt motor from SBT, so it looks like my $900 fix just turned into a $100 fix! I'm REALLY excited about that cause the boat is costing an arm and a leg with fuel prices these days.

my question about the play was concerning the spring that holds the brass gear in place. I'm not sure if there should be any play there or not. I can slide the gear back and forth on the shaft about an 8th of an inch before there is pressure from the retainer spring. Is this normal or should the spring be holding the gear tightly in place? A $9.00 spring isn't worth another complete tear down again. I've attached a picture to show exactly what I'm talking about.

Also, do any of you guys know of a manufacturer that makes just rings for the 717 engine? My pistons and everything else are in great shape but I figured if I could pick up a set of rings for a decent price why not throw a set in since I have the motor torn down. This has always been a habit of mine, I used to replace the rings in my dirt bikes about every 10 hours or so when I was racing.

Thanks again for all your help!

 

[Dennis]

free play

There should be NO free play. The springs job is to preload the brass gear. If there is play between the spring and gear then there is something wrong!!!
It could be either the spring or the gear.............. I'm guessing both.
DAWG

 

[Arson Mfg]

Awesome! Thats what I needed to know, I wasn't sure if for some odd reason there was supposed to be some sort of play there. I've seen stranger things in engines, but I figured there shouldn't be there.

I'll just replace the gear and spring.

Anybody know about a set of rings by themselves?