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Ride Plate Adjustment & Steering Assist adj

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turbosl2

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I have a 2003 Sea Doo Challenger 1800 that i am going through and getting ready for spring. How do i set the ride plate to factory specs, and what are they and measured from?

Also,
I have a cable operated steering assist, of which the cable tension is so lose it does not pull on the carb linkage. I adjusted it so it moves the linkage about 1/4"but i have no idea if this is to much. Is there a procedure for this setup? I even had to adjust the angle because it would open the linkage/carb plate one way 1/2" and the other stay closed.

Seems that i have to go through EVERYTHING on this boat and get it back to spec. I rather do what i can on the trailer in the garage and fine tune on the water, rather than do everything on the water.

Thanks
 
The steering assist should just barely open the throttle equally left and right. Lots of people disconnect it completely. Personal preference. Final adjustment must be made in the water. It only opens the throttle from 1000 rpm to 1500-1800 rpm.

The left-right "balance" adjustment is on top of the steering gear box.
 
The steering assist should just barely open the throttle equally left and right. Lots of people disconnect it completely. Personal preference. Final adjustment must be made in the water. It only opens the throttle from 1000 rpm to 1500-1800 rpm.

The left-right "balance" adjustment is on top of the steering gear box.
Yup I did already adjust it just wasn’t sure about how much it should move, guess I will have to wait to see in the water.

What about ride plate settings
 
Ride plate-
Should be as high (aft edge) as possible without making the boat porpoise (bow bouncing up & down) with your normal load.

If you porpoise, adjust the aft edge down. This forces the bow down.

Mine is electo-hydraulic so I can change it from the helm.

Make sure your screwdriver is a perfect fit in the screws or you will have problems.
 
Ride plate-
Should be as high (aft edge) as possible without making the boat porpoise (bow bouncing up & down) with your normal load.

If you porpoise, adjust the aft edge down. This forces the bow down.

Mine is electo-hydraulic so I can change it from the helm.

Make sure your screwdriver is a perfect fit in the screws or you will have problems.
I don’t understand, what are the factory measurements before I put it in the water.
 
Loosen the jam nut, adjust the screws, tighten the jam juts.

If the screws are seized or corroded in place, spray your favorite penetrating fluid on the screws and wait. If you strip the head or break a screw, you have a REAL problem.
 
If you have the stock plate, lower it as far as possible as you will want as much down force on the bow as you can get.

Most of us replaced the stock with an extended ride plate to get even more down force as these hulls porpoise horrible above 40mph. So get the aft portion as low as you can given the stock bolts.

Good luck.
 
If you have the stock plate, lower it as far as possible as you will want as much down force on the bow as you can get.

Most of us replaced the stock with an extended ride plate to get even more down force as these hulls porpoise horrible above 40mph. So get the aft portion as low as you can given the stock bolts.

Good luck.
Good to know. I have it pretty far down, previous owner has the starboard side where driver sits about a 1/4” lower. I didn’t change it
 
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