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Reverse gate

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lsmiffy02

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Hi all. My forward reverse lever is really stiff on my challenger 1800, I disconnected it from the reverse gate and it became a lot easier to operate and the gate was stiff, what can I do to free it up? Any help appreciated.
Many thanks
 
There's probably some corrosion in the hinge point of the gate. Take it apart, clean it, and greases it. Shouldn't be that hard.
 
That's the problem, I can't seem to get it off to clean and grease, there is a bolt behind a pin??
Any ideas?
 
Yes there are bolts and pins to remove before you can get bucket off. I had same the problem but once removed, I was able to freely shift lever from forward to reverse. I then filed down the corroded metal and washers, re assembled with marine grease, and now shifts butter smooth.
 
As I recall... there is a pin you drive out on the starboard side of the bucket to get access to everything. I'll have to look in the manual.


****EDIT*****

The pin I was thinking about is for the cable. The pivot is just bolts that can be removed.
 
Yes that is the one I was talking about. I have already disconnected the cable and the lever moves with ease. The bucket however is still stiff so need to figure out how to get that off.
Many thanks
 
Mine had a pin on each side that holds the bolts in place (so they don't back out)for the pivot on the bucket. I had to hammer out the pins, remove bolts, then grind/file my corrosion away and re-grease to make bucket move freely. It made a world of difference when operating boat in slow moving canals.
 
There is a pin either side of the gate which stops the bolts from coming out but I can't get the pins out? I have tried to knock them out with hammer and screwdriver but no luck and don't want to do any damage. I notice there was a post last year of the same nature but couldn't find any answers on it?
Many thanks
 
I have not done this repair yet but I can tell you that a screwdriver is not the right tool. Get a punch that fits the pin size. It is designed to be hit with a hammer and transfer the energy to the pin. A screwdriver absorbs it in the handle.
 
Hi, thanks for your reply. Unfortunately I can't see much of the pins to get at them or hit them which was why I was using a flat screwdriver.
Thanks again
 
I think that I put the bucket in forward so I can see the pins better so I can hammer (punch) them out. I do remember that I could only punch out a little bit then I had to pry the rest out with a screwdriver on the head of the pin to get the rest out.
 
Use the right size punch. It transfers a lot more energy than a screwdriver will, hitting it on prying. If the pin doesn't move with a punch but moves with the screwdriver pryjng, it's the wrong punch. I made all new bushings for mine last weekend
 
I got mine off by using a flathead screwdriver on the underside of the pin. A royal pain in the butt to get to and I used some caution when hitting it with hammer and almost gave up, but after SEVERAL hits, it finally came loose (I doused it with WD-40 and let it sit for awhile first). It shifted better, but still pretty stiff, so I am going to replace the reverse cable before I put it in the water this spring. I hope to do within the next two weeks. I'll let you know how I make out. I want to avoid breaking the shifter handle like I did before, so am hoping the new reverse cable will make for easy shifting.
 
With the shifter cable disconnected from the reverse bucket, does it shift smooth? Does the reverse bucket move up and down freely with cable disconnected? You should then determine where your failed part is depending on what part is stiff once isolated. My case was the shifter cable was fine and free shifting but my bucket was pinching to tight to the pump and causing to much friction. I grounded down all "excess" materials and now shifts smooth!!!!
 
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