Reverse Cable Thread End Broke

[digerata]

At the end of the day of my last trip out, I couldn't get the shifter out of forward in order to start the boat. It had stuck before, so like an idiot, I gave it a good yank and all sorts of bad happened. :0

I bent the end of the starboard reverse cable. On the port reverse cable, the threaded end sheared off completely. The reverse links were also bent. The port throttle cable support was also bent leaving that engine in 1/4 throttle at idle position...

Okay, expensive mistake! I just can't get over a single cable that costs $150+. Gah! Can you believe that little pivot bracket for the cables is $65 oem??

So the bent parts I have straightened out and the bent reverse cable is working fairly well. The question I have is, can I cut new threads farther up on the cable that broke? Has anyone tried this before?

I'm pretty sure the thread is 10#32 NF. The matching die I used tonight just couldn't get started. (used cutting oil and everything) It even appeared to wear out the die. Assuming this is stainless steel, then? I haven't cut new threads all that often, but never had a problem before... Any ideas?

Thanks!

-Mike

 

[Dr Honda]

If you have enough room... you can cut threads... but as you said... it's stainless, so you need a good carbide, or cobalt die. "High speed steel" isn't hard enough to cut stainless.

Personally, I would have the end welded back on. If you find someone with a TIG machine... it can be done.

 

[digerata]

That's an interesting thought...

Thanks!

 

[470]

They can be stick welded too. I use 3/32 316ss rod.

 

[Dr Honda]

They can be stick welded too. I use 3/32 316ss rod.

Ugggg! That would not be easy. I can make pretty little welds with my TIG.

 

[470]

I weld stainless almost everyday so making it look good is no problem. We usually only tig on food lines and some process piping depending on the product going through it. I have UA pipe welding certs 1,14,21,22,41,42,43,45,46 & 91.

 

[digerata]

Wish you were in MI or I in WI...

 

[Dr Honda]

Wish you were in MI or I in WI...

I'm sure you can find a weld shop local to you. OR... your best bet is to look for a custom motorcycle shop. Generally, whoever does the welding there has practiced to make nice cosmetic welds, and should be able to do a small part.

I weld stainless almost everyday so making it look good is no problem. We usually only tig on food lines and some process piping depending on the product going through it. I have UA pipe welding certs 1,14,21,22,41,42,43,45,46 & 91.

I own a big portable Lincoln stick welder/generator.... and my Miller TIG has a stick mode... but every time I try to use a "Stick"... it looks like a giant bird came over, and pooped all over my weld joint. (lol) It's normally a strong weld... just ugly.

 

[470]

Sounds like not enough heat. You can try different stick angles and pull your puddle don't push. A lot has to do with the rod you use also. I only use Lincoln Excalibur rod. 7018 for general welds,cover passes and 6010 for root passes and really rusty metal. Most welds can be made with 3/32 rod which will give to better control and results.