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Removing 240efi Merc M2 Jet Drive from Boat

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Hi All

I want to remove the jet drive from the boat. I have removed the power head (in process of overhauling it) and also removed the qty 4 nuts holding the drive hsg cover.

The problem is that I can not remove the housing. I have tried various things over a period of 2 weeks but without luck. I have soaked the cover in WD40 (around gasket and protruding studs), applied heat to cover with heat gun, hitting with dead blow hammer, tried wedging in a forged wedge and or pry bar - tricky as I do not want to damage fiberglass or castings.

My last resort was to apply downwards pull on the jet housing by using 2 ratchet straps - 1 on front and 1 at the rear - pulling on the trailer cross members. I have applied heat, WD40, hitting with soft blow hammer but still no luck.

Anybody that has had a similar problem or just any old suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
OK.... so the engine is out... and the 4 nuts that hold the top mounting plate to the drive are off. BUT... the top plate is stuck?? Is that right?

Unfortunatly, when the top plate is corroded, onto the drive... it's a real pain to get apart. (normaly from salt water) AND all the traditional cures don't work too well for a few reason.

1) Heat: There are a bunch of rubber parts, and the fiberglass hull that will keep you from putting enough heat on it, to get it apart. (You will cook the delicate parts)

2) Impact: Hitting parts is a good way to crack the corrosion. BUT, the rubber mount, and hull will flex just enough, that the "Shock" isn't transferred into the drive.

3) Penetrating oils. Well... there's a big rubber gasket, that is keeping the oil from getting into the stuck joint.


Over the years, I've seen some very drastic procedures to get it apart. I've seen a couple people use a cutting wheel, and take the parameter of the top plate off, and then they could remove the rest once the drive was out. Obviously, you will need a new top plate/mount when putting it back together.


If I was in this position... I would drill a series of holes around the mount, so I could get a real penetrating oil, into the joint. (inside the joint section) AND... then I could use a punch/drift and a hammer to give a little "Shock" to the joint. (going though the holes) Then... the holes could be welded up after.


As a final FYI... WD40 SUCKS as a penetrating oil. It was designed as a Water Displacer. Buy a product that was designed as a penetrating oil, I personally like PB blaster.
 
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