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Recommended battery size/CCA?
- Thread starter wackyman9
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Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
AGM battery 16L will do the trick.
I think my last 2 stroke battery purchase was 325 CCA
I think my last 2 stroke battery purchase was 325 CCA
Mine is rated at 310 CCA..
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
I'm on of those that doesn't like to cheap out on batteries, I regularly ride 30 miles from the ramp and that's a long azz tow if my ski doesn't start when we take a break.
I've had decent luck at the discounted auto parts stores in the past but recently they started selling cheaply made versions (lower cca) a while back so I went back to B+ just for the peace of mind, no guarantee's when you buy a 2 yr battery but for the extra $30-40 I feel better when I hit the red button a long way from home.
I've had decent luck at the discounted auto parts stores in the past but recently they started selling cheaply made versions (lower cca) a while back so I went back to B+ just for the peace of mind, no guarantee's when you buy a 2 yr battery but for the extra $30-40 I feel better when I hit the red button a long way from home.
I agree with not cheating out on batteries, AGM type and the most amps I can get.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
Personally, considering the warranty's that are available, i'd stay local, and they will input your phone number in for the warranty.
That's the reason I use Batteries +,that way I can just bring it by, they will test it, and exchange if necessary.
So personally i'd stay away from online vendors unless they also have a B&M presence so you are not mailing a "bad" battery to some out of town location and hope that they will honor the warranty and not just say, "battery is fine". I haven't had that happen but i'm just saying, local is better, but places like B+ will give you 10% to buy online, and pick up in the store... Advanced will give you more % but I'm less trusting of their quality.
That's the reason I use Batteries +,that way I can just bring it by, they will test it, and exchange if necessary.
So personally i'd stay away from online vendors unless they also have a B&M presence so you are not mailing a "bad" battery to some out of town location and hope that they will honor the warranty and not just say, "battery is fine". I haven't had that happen but i'm just saying, local is better, but places like B+ will give you 10% to buy online, and pick up in the store... Advanced will give you more % but I'm less trusting of their quality.
Depends on how you take care of them. When I am not using mine it goes on the battery tender. I am still using my Napa GS flooded battery that came with my used ski back in 2013. Who knows how old it is at this point.
A little update to my situation... still couldnt get it to fire up even after a new battery and new plugs. I decided to hold a plug and see if there was spark, and there isn't... I'm going to start with the coil and go from there.. anyone recommend any type of coil specifically or go with a performance coil?
wfo speedracer
Active Member
OEM coils have always worked for me, you will probably find that it isn't the coil that is the problem.
Any reason why you would suggest it wasn't the coil, is there a better/easier/cheaper starting point that has yielded better results in similar situations?
1983
Well-Known Member
Finally have a progress report, only problem is it's lacking progress lol. I checked for spark, spark is good. I also installed the oil block off and filled up with a 50:1 mix since the cylinders kept getting over saturated with oil. New plugs, cleaned air box, oil blown from cylinders and still no start. Cranks as it should with plugs out, but I only get a crank at random with the plugs installed..
When the plugs are installed, it's almost as if there still isn't enough umph to overcome the piston compression. I upped the cca of the battery to 320 cca from 230. I don't know where to go from here except to the local seadoo mechanic..... Thanks!
When the plugs are installed, it's almost as if there still isn't enough umph to overcome the piston compression. I upped the cca of the battery to 320 cca from 230. I don't know where to go from here except to the local seadoo mechanic..... Thanks!
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So with plugs installed it is cranking over slowly? It could be a bad starter relay, bridge across the large terminals with a screwdriver, if it cranks OK that way invest $50 in a relay. If it doesn't, and connections are clean and tight I would suspect the starter. I don't know what normal starter draw amps would be, if anyone chimes in with a figure you could do a starter draw test.
With the plugs out, it cranks as it should, rapid and hard. When I put the plugs back in its almost as if there isn't enough power to overcome the compression and it does like a "half crank", where it will spin and then it seems the pressure on the cylinders build and the crank can't overcome the pressure.. Almost like a stuck exhaust vale. Is that a possibility?
I have 2 new batteries, and the starter is brand spanking new. I am mechanically inclined, just not familiar with pwc's. Willing and ready to dig in...
I have 2 new batteries, and the starter is brand spanking new. I am mechanically inclined, just not familiar with pwc's. Willing and ready to dig in...
Being a two-stroke there are no poppet type valves as we are accustomed to in car engines and the 4tec engines. There is a rotary valve on the intake and and a "piston port" exhaust, the timing of which is varied by the RAVE valves to optimize performance. I can't see that those would cause your symptoms, but my past experience has been cars and motorcycles, I am also working my way up the leading curve on these engines.
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