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recommendation for rebuild service
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timmyboy76
New Member
if its top-end only..(2003 gti..?), you can do ur yourself, but if rod bearing or cylinders need resleeved, then hadn't hear of that company, but seadoowarehouse or sbt...
I have been researching since early summer knowing at the end of this year I was going to have my motor done. I think I am going with fullbore and using there platinum build for this. Doing so in off season will get me a couple hundred off and a few more months on the warranty. I had my boat worked on by local guy here in AZ and he screwed me bad. Striped a stud in the transom for the jetpump, said he rebuild the carbs and did not, said there was a knock in the low end and there was not (just needed spring cone and pumpers on drive shaft). I do not want this to happen on my engine rebuild for sure.
I have a major difference in the compression in the two cylinders now and boat will not rev over 6,800 now. I think it is time (BTW this is a 96 challenger with 787/800). Less than two months ago I rebuild the entire propulsion system. I put new pump, wear ring, Skat Trak swirl impeller, shaft, bearings, thrust washer, spring cone, hull boot, carbon ring, clip, etc… Boat really hooks up now and has zero cavitation.
Spoke with the guy at fullbore today even and I will pull my motor this weekend and get it ready to ship. I am having him use thin cylinder gasket to get compression up using stock head. Said he would squish gap to insure I can use 91 Octane pump gas.
Anyone else had a motor done by them? What are your thoughts? I have also found a new factory in the crate 787 silver for $1,100.00. I was also thinking of going this way to. I hear that if I change motors or even cranks in mine I will have to take it to a dealer to have it timed. Any thoughts on this?
I have a major difference in the compression in the two cylinders now and boat will not rev over 6,800 now. I think it is time (BTW this is a 96 challenger with 787/800). Less than two months ago I rebuild the entire propulsion system. I put new pump, wear ring, Skat Trak swirl impeller, shaft, bearings, thrust washer, spring cone, hull boot, carbon ring, clip, etc… Boat really hooks up now and has zero cavitation.
Spoke with the guy at fullbore today even and I will pull my motor this weekend and get it ready to ship. I am having him use thin cylinder gasket to get compression up using stock head. Said he would squish gap to insure I can use 91 Octane pump gas.
Anyone else had a motor done by them? What are your thoughts? I have also found a new factory in the crate 787 silver for $1,100.00. I was also thinking of going this way to. I hear that if I change motors or even cranks in mine I will have to take it to a dealer to have it timed. Any thoughts on this?
bighvygsx
New Member
i used them for my 1999 gsx 787 rfi. i got the platium top end kit and had 1 resleeved. they ground the two to match and sent the kit nicley labled on how to install everything. top notch in my opinion. nice guys been doing rotex enginess for years (started in snowmobiles). would not hesitate to recomend them to anyone.
Decided to rebuild my own block
I have decided to have my own engine rebuilt instead of getting a new shortblock from seadoo. Those are just rebuilt blocks by seadoo and have no warranty if not installed by certified seadoo shop. Then the warranty is just parts, not even labor. I have made a couple calls and I am looking at about $2,500.00 if go that route.
For way less than that I can get mine done with new Hot Rods crank WSM or Pro X top end, and a R&D 43cc head. All this with year warranty including parts and labor. will also have him rebuild the carbs while they are off. I have also decided the only mod will be the 43cc head and possibly a water injection system. I can add that at any time though after breaking if still wanted.
A local shop is tearing down my motor yesterday and should have final pricing for me today.
I have decided to have my own engine rebuilt instead of getting a new shortblock from seadoo. Those are just rebuilt blocks by seadoo and have no warranty if not installed by certified seadoo shop. Then the warranty is just parts, not even labor. I have made a couple calls and I am looking at about $2,500.00 if go that route.
For way less than that I can get mine done with new Hot Rods crank WSM or Pro X top end, and a R&D 43cc head. All this with year warranty including parts and labor. will also have him rebuild the carbs while they are off. I have also decided the only mod will be the 43cc head and possibly a water injection system. I can add that at any time though after breaking if still wanted.
A local shop is tearing down my motor yesterday and should have final pricing for me today.
The n mbers are in
Looks like a little over $1,800.00 for the rebuild job. This includes bottom, top, R&D Head, new 159 rotary valve, and carb rebuilds. I will worry about the MSD water injection system after I have it broke in. May even go with the MSD seadoo 800 ignition enhancer kit later as well. Anyone have any experience with either of these MSD items? What about an electronic fuel pump? think I need one or will I be able to keep the oem carbs full without it?
I will take some picks and post in the next few days. I have already scrubbed the bilge, replaced the pump (RULE 500 auto pump that does not use external water sensor), replaced oil lines and filter, etc.. This will make a nice home for a new motor.
BTW: How fast should this, 96 chalanger single 787/800, go with new seadoo jet pump and SKAT TRAK Swirl impeller? I would like to get 55mph out of it. Early in the year I got about 51 out of it with a Nu Jet impeller running 7K rpm. Replaced that impeller in a hurry though as it cavitated pretty bad on the low end. I would like to get 7.2K rpm out of this new motor hooked up to the SKat Trak.
Looks like a little over $1,800.00 for the rebuild job. This includes bottom, top, R&D Head, new 159 rotary valve, and carb rebuilds. I will worry about the MSD water injection system after I have it broke in. May even go with the MSD seadoo 800 ignition enhancer kit later as well. Anyone have any experience with either of these MSD items? What about an electronic fuel pump? think I need one or will I be able to keep the oem carbs full without it?
I will take some picks and post in the next few days. I have already scrubbed the bilge, replaced the pump (RULE 500 auto pump that does not use external water sensor), replaced oil lines and filter, etc.. This will make a nice home for a new motor.
BTW: How fast should this, 96 chalanger single 787/800, go with new seadoo jet pump and SKAT TRAK Swirl impeller? I would like to get 55mph out of it. Early in the year I got about 51 out of it with a Nu Jet impeller running 7K rpm. Replaced that impeller in a hurry though as it cavitated pretty bad on the low end. I would like to get 7.2K rpm out of this new motor hooked up to the SKat Trak.
Rotary Valve
Yes the Swirl impeller cost me a little on the top end but the hook up is well worth it. I have also decided to use a 163 degree carbon fiber rotary valve instead of the 159. This will make up some for the mid an top range. I am hoping to have the boat in the water in just a few weeks for some break in time. I also need to make up my mind on the new flame arresters with velocity stacks and carb choke removal with primer kit. Since I am having the carbs rebuilt now I can get the jets changed and chokes removed for no additional cost. But again would not be that big of a deal later on down the road.
After the break in I will decide on the flame arresters, micro touch rev limiter and timing system (was told much better than the MSD) and also may do the water injection. Everything else I have looked at is not a good bang for the buck.
This weekend I am replacing trailer hub grease seals and checking bearings and races. Will also spend some time under the boat looking and filling in any cracks. Thinking of using the Permatex fiberglass bonder to fill anything in. This is off white in color and also sand able. Any suggestions here? Also any suggestions for paint for the pipe? Since I will have a fresh painted motor I thought I would hit the pipe with some purple to make it all look nice when completed. Thanks !
Yes the Swirl impeller cost me a little on the top end but the hook up is well worth it. I have also decided to use a 163 degree carbon fiber rotary valve instead of the 159. This will make up some for the mid an top range. I am hoping to have the boat in the water in just a few weeks for some break in time. I also need to make up my mind on the new flame arresters with velocity stacks and carb choke removal with primer kit. Since I am having the carbs rebuilt now I can get the jets changed and chokes removed for no additional cost. But again would not be that big of a deal later on down the road.
After the break in I will decide on the flame arresters, micro touch rev limiter and timing system (was told much better than the MSD) and also may do the water injection. Everything else I have looked at is not a good bang for the buck.
This weekend I am replacing trailer hub grease seals and checking bearings and races. Will also spend some time under the boat looking and filling in any cracks. Thinking of using the Permatex fiberglass bonder to fill anything in. This is off white in color and also sand able. Any suggestions here? Also any suggestions for paint for the pipe? Since I will have a fresh painted motor I thought I would hit the pipe with some purple to make it all look nice when completed. Thanks !
Got my engine back Friday night. Installed it Saturday and was on the water Sunday. I can really feel the differance coming out of the hole. I had no idea this boat could take off like that. At half throttle she runs about 6300 RPM and 45mph (factory speedo that is). Anything after that is not that great though. Max rpm is 6800 at WOT and maybe a 1 mph greater in speed. Two things here.
1. the mechanic told me he set the carbs a little rich for break in and I may get a sputter at 3/4 to wot. He was correct there. I get a little sputter.
2. my Preasure Regulator Assy on the water box squirts water out of the black cap.
Am I correct in thinking the bad Preasure Regulator Assy could cause me not reaching max RPM? I also noticed the pipe is stone cold after runing for hours. Is this normal? Top of the head is even cold. No chance of over heating hear.
1. the mechanic told me he set the carbs a little rich for break in and I may get a sputter at 3/4 to wot. He was correct there. I get a little sputter.
2. my Preasure Regulator Assy on the water box squirts water out of the black cap.
Am I correct in thinking the bad Preasure Regulator Assy could cause me not reaching max RPM? I also noticed the pipe is stone cold after runing for hours. Is this normal? Top of the head is even cold. No chance of over heating hear.
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