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rebuild or send out?

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link81

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03 LE with 951.
motor is shot ( locked up tight). no holes in block that i can see.
does it make sense to send out my cylinders to be bored and rebuild myself? (with new crank and balancing shaft)
is there any block damage i can expect? or the blocks generally good as long as they're still intact?

are there any "gotcha's with these motors? i've rebuilt many larger engines, but never a high strung 2 stroke.
I will get the membership, and download the service manual, seems dumb to attempt this without it.
 
I would buy a top end kit with cyl and pistons and measure the crank. The crank is the expensive part. Top end kits are decsent money in my opinion
 
I’d buy a paper manual off eBay.
I really don’t think you can make an assessment about your engine until you take it apart and see what damage you have. How do you know if you need to replace 1 cylinder or 3? How do you know if your crank is ok? I can think of perhaps a half dozen reasons why your engine won’t turn over. None are good, but some are a heck of a lot worse than others.
 
Well, I only have 2 cylinders. So I’m not too worried about #3. Lol. But I agree. No telling what’s wrong until I actually pull it apart. But can I do that without messing up my core from sea or fullbore? (Not really feeling sbt)
 
You said your engine is a 951? I assumed you meant to post in the jetski forum. I wouldn’t worry about core issues. They will take it if it’s together and complete. Not sure what you mean by sbt?
 
There has been A LOT of bad stuff about full bore recently with many engines taking near a year or more to be fulfilled
 
most of the complaints i've seen about fullbore is the time, not the work. i have until next year to wait for a rebuild. not like i need it next month.
i've also seen complaints about SES and SBT, so there really doesn't seem to be a "perfect" vendor.
 
Well I have a 2002 sportster le that locked up and I have a blown piston destroyed cylinder destroyed crankshaft and a destroyed case. And it all looked perfect in my boat but would not turn over. You should pull your engine and find out why it won’t turn over. I hope it’s not as bad as what mine is
 
pulled the motor, got the flywheel pulled off, when I pulled the stator cover, there was about an inch of mud in the bottom of it. so I'm sure the crank case looks similar.
good news though, is that the core is good. no issues with the aluminum at all.
 
Hey fellow forum members, new to the site as of today. I'm in the same predicament just bought a 2000 sportster with a 951 carb engine. pto piston is shot along with snapped connecting rod. trying to figure out where to send this thing for a rebuild. going to remove engine this weekend and inspect case for CARNAGE....

Wish me luck.

Have been back and forth threw E-mail with Dan at fullbore getting pricing and such want to go with his signature series 2 1000cc ported and polished 951.
Also messaged SES "sea-doo engine shop". haven't heard a word from them at all its been 2 weeks.

Feedback and advise more then welcome!
 
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Unfortunately for a shop rebuild the only place that we can confidently recommend is SBT as SES and FullBore have become so unreliable we can't recommend them. Your only option is a SBT reman if you want a warranty but they are just a very basic engine with nothing special inside.

A 951 is a highly stressed engine so once you get to about 150+ hours the crank is already on borrowed time and typically can't handle a new to end and they throw rods through the cases. If you are going to rebuild a 951 you really need to do the crank and balancer shaft at the same time.
If you need your cylinders bored I suggest Group K or a really good local shop that knows 2-strokes, not just a basic engine shop.
 
i reached out to both SES ad Fullbore. didn't get a response from either.
gave SBT a call and not only did they pick up, the guy i talked to was super helpful.

needless to say, i now have an engine on the way. My money goes to who talks to me.
 
I would suggest rebuilding the carbs with Genuine Mikuni parts and servicing the rest of the oil and fuel systems so you don't blow up that fresh engine.
 
carb kits are coming, and the entire oil system will be replaced with new lines.
is there anything I should do the pump itself?
 
What will the motor do or sound like if the oil pump fails? I think I may have a similar issue, but my motor spins freely, it just sounds like metal on metal. I was running fine on plain but really made a ruckus at idle.
 
What will the motor do or sound like if the oil pump fails? I think I may have a similar issue, but my motor spins freely, it just sounds like metal on metal. I was running fine on plain but really made a ruckus at idle.
It's a 2 stroke so it will need oil to run. No oil = ruin motor. Gonna happen pretty quik [emoji85]
 
wow.... if this motor could talk.
I wonder what happened to the poor girl. there is mud inside the stator housing......

IMG_0055.jpgIMG_0056.jpgIMG_0054.jpgIMG_0053.jpgIMG_0052.jpgIMG_0051.jpg
 
My motor would have sworn for sure Lol. This is what has ruined my whole boating season. Not even on the water once this year lol
 

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My motor would have sworn for sure Lol. This is what has ruined my whole boating season. Not even on the water once this year lol


TrashPanda, I'm in the same boat over here... pardon the pun. looks like your cylinder bore is cracked at the bottom of the bore as well the reed valve area has had some connection with a broken connecting rod...Welp

951 block.jpg

piston pto.jpg

I've been told the block is saveable as the reed area can be filed down as long as the case is in good shape of course...
 
It's a 2 stroke so it will need oil to run. No oil = ruin motor. Gonna happen pretty quik [emoji85]

I understand it needs oil, the question I asked was what symptoms lead up to a oil injector quitting. The reason I ask is because I was out on the water and the motor seemed fine, until I came down to idle, there was a lot of metal clanking noise. I shut her down and started it back up and same thing.
 
I understand it needs oil, the question I asked was what symptoms lead up to a oil injector quitting. The reason I ask is because I was out on the water and the motor seemed fine, until I came down to idle, there was a lot of metal clanking noise. I shut her down and started it back up and same thing.

how do you know the oil system failed? the engine coming unglued doesn't automatically mean your oil syst failed.

for example, it could be a carburetor issue. it could be that the con rod in that engine has suffered enough stress that it simply gave out and shit the bed.

however, to answer your question, i would guess there could be many different audible signs of a 2 stroke engine failing. it would depend on what part decided to let go first. however, your best indications would be to do a little post mortem forensic investigation. if the oil system failed, you should see a lot of scoring in both cylinders. you would likely see bearing failure, scored journals, and you would probably have heat discoloration where components rub together without lubrication.
 
I understand it needs oil, the question I asked was what symptoms lead up to a oil injector quitting. The reason I ask is because I was out on the water and the motor seemed fine, until I came down to idle, there was a lot of metal clanking noise. I shut her down and started it back up and same thing.
ok,sorry
Damage oil lines,pinched oil lines, Air in oil lines, debris in oil(failed filter)
 
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