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Rave!
- Thread starter Ross-iow
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RAVEs are pretty cool and ingenious.
Basically, you get more horsepower from better flowing heads (more intake and exhaust flow equals easier power).
RAVEs basically open up with higher RPMs to make the exhaust "ports" bigger, allowing much greater exhaust flow and more power.
They are basically how we get 110HP out of these little powerplants.
Basically, you get more horsepower from better flowing heads (more intake and exhaust flow equals easier power).
RAVEs basically open up with higher RPMs to make the exhaust "ports" bigger, allowing much greater exhaust flow and more power.
They are basically how we get 110HP out of these little powerplants.
Ross-iow, you need to add you seadoo model and year in your Avatar so in the future we will know exactly what seadoo you have. Use my Avatar as an example.
Here is some info on the RAVE valve;
The RAVE, (Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust) valves are located above the exhaust valve. There are 2 of them per engine. They are round with a red adjustment screw in the middle. It has a clip that holds it together. How they work is that they open the exhaust port larger as the engine rpm's increase. When the rpm's drop down so do the RAVE valves. They work on the principle of the pressure of the exhaust system. Rpm's increase, pressure increases and the valve opens, rpm's drop pressure drops, Valve closes. They should be de-carbonized annual. To disassemble the rave valves, remove the spring clip on top, remove the black cover. There is a spring under the cover. Remove the piston by turning it with a metric socket. On the bottom of the piston is the rubber "Bellows" be careful with the small retaining spring that hold the bellows on the piston. Remove the 2 allen screws that hold the base on the cylinder. Remove the base and gasket. The long valve won't fall in the cylinder just pull it out. There is an o ring under the base, on the shaft of the guillotine valve. Be careful to see how it came apart as it has to go back together that same way again. On the base, notice the notch that it is facing down. Clean all the carbon off the guillotine valve. I use carb cleaner and 400 grit paper. Check the bellows for any small pin holes. If so replace it. If not, reassemble it on the clean guillotine valve, and install it back on the engine the same way it came apart. The guillotine valve only fits one way. The one closest to the exhaust pipe will come off differently then the other one. You will have to remove the allen screws and turn the base so it clears the exhaust pipe. I would do one at a time in case you forget how it goes back together again. This way you can look at the other one and copy it. Do both engines 2 per engine. Take your time and if you have questions give us a shout. We'll be here to help you out.
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly and could be causing your problem.
The adjustment knob (the red cap) should either be screwed all the way in or flush to the top of the black ring of the cap. This will only affect performance, as far as how it jumps out of the hole or how well it runs for extended periods at WOT.
Karl
Here is some info on the RAVE valve;
The RAVE, (Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust) valves are located above the exhaust valve. There are 2 of them per engine. They are round with a red adjustment screw in the middle. It has a clip that holds it together. How they work is that they open the exhaust port larger as the engine rpm's increase. When the rpm's drop down so do the RAVE valves. They work on the principle of the pressure of the exhaust system. Rpm's increase, pressure increases and the valve opens, rpm's drop pressure drops, Valve closes. They should be de-carbonized annual. To disassemble the rave valves, remove the spring clip on top, remove the black cover. There is a spring under the cover. Remove the piston by turning it with a metric socket. On the bottom of the piston is the rubber "Bellows" be careful with the small retaining spring that hold the bellows on the piston. Remove the 2 allen screws that hold the base on the cylinder. Remove the base and gasket. The long valve won't fall in the cylinder just pull it out. There is an o ring under the base, on the shaft of the guillotine valve. Be careful to see how it came apart as it has to go back together that same way again. On the base, notice the notch that it is facing down. Clean all the carbon off the guillotine valve. I use carb cleaner and 400 grit paper. Check the bellows for any small pin holes. If so replace it. If not, reassemble it on the clean guillotine valve, and install it back on the engine the same way it came apart. The guillotine valve only fits one way. The one closest to the exhaust pipe will come off differently then the other one. You will have to remove the allen screws and turn the base so it clears the exhaust pipe. I would do one at a time in case you forget how it goes back together again. This way you can look at the other one and copy it. Do both engines 2 per engine. Take your time and if you have questions give us a shout. We'll be here to help you out.
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly and could be causing your problem.
The adjustment knob (the red cap) should either be screwed all the way in or flush to the top of the black ring of the cap. This will only affect performance, as far as how it jumps out of the hole or how well it runs for extended periods at WOT.
Karl
Karl, you cut and pasted that, you cheater :reddevil:
Will it pop out of the hole faster with the red screw flush or fully screwed in? I have never gotten that bit of information. Seems like flush to the top would put less pressure on it and it would open sooner giving better power.
Will it pop out of the hole faster with the red screw flush or fully screwed in? I have never gotten that bit of information. Seems like flush to the top would put less pressure on it and it would open sooner giving better power.
Scott, I have answered that question about 1,287 times...in the past year. That's as popular as" my seadoo bogs down"...or "my seadoo has cavitation, and revs and goes no place"... How many times have you seen that question? If I typed every answer over and over again I'd go nuts! I got that from My screen name in the advanced search engine. I haven't been on my computer for the last 6 months, so I just search my name and all my posts are available to regurgitate to copy and paste. The information was researched months ago and never changes, only the person asking changes.
The red adjustment should be adjusted all the way to the bottom for better acceleration if memory serves me correct.
Karl
The red adjustment should be adjusted all the way to the bottom for better acceleration if memory serves me correct.
Karl
Mirage
New Member
That's why, YOU DA MAN!!!"
Just ribbing you, Karl. I know what you got going on with the moderator stuff.
So, putting the screw down would hold the RAVEs closed longer, making it have more of a burst when they finally open due to higher rpms? Kinda like putting in a looser torque converter?
Kinda makes sense...I may just crank them down next time we are out and see if I notice a difference.
We are going to be doing a lot of towing sports starting this weekend. Surfboard, water skis, and bought a tube for the wife. So I will need that POP out of the hole.
So, putting the screw down would hold the RAVEs closed longer, making it have more of a burst when they finally open due to higher rpms? Kinda like putting in a looser torque converter?
Kinda makes sense...I may just crank them down next time we are out and see if I notice a difference.
We are going to be doing a lot of towing sports starting this weekend. Surfboard, water skis, and bought a tube for the wife. So I will need that POP out of the hole.
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