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RAVE Valve O-ring Replacement Thread

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My 1997 GSX's RAVE valve o-rings (Seadoo Part# 290 430 100) are hard and no longer fit snug along the shaft of the Guillotine Valve. Did some research online and somehow got the idea that part number 420 430 110 superceded the original part number, so I ordered 4 of them. When they arrived I compared the new o-rings to the old o-rings and the new ones were obviously different. Smaller outside diameter, larger inside diameter and smaller material thickness. Sent the eBay Vendor an email asking why they had a picture of OEM packaging in their listing but sent me 4 o-rings in "home made" ziploc bag, and he replied that he receives his OEM parts in quantities of 10 and has to break them down and repackage them for quantities less than that. So insisted that his part was authentic OEM.

Today I call local brick and mortar store and counterman there confirms that the "420" part number does in fact supercede the original "290" part number (note the last 6 digits of both part numbers are exactly the same), and also as an aside he said that in general all original Seadoo part numbers that start with "2" get changed to a "4" when they are superseded, so that's a bit of insight into how Seadoo does things for people, in case it's useful.

So now I have 4 o-rings that may or may not be OEM replacements, that may or may not work even though they are the right size. Everything I have read says that the o-ring needs to fit "snug" (this is the word everyone uses) along the shaft of the guillotine valve, and this certainly will NOT, so I don't want to use them.

Talked to a Service Manager at the same Seadoo Parts vendor and he said that what he's done in the past is simply go to an auto parts store and visually matched his old o-ring to one that they sold, and that he's never had any problems. But this opened the door to question if there is something special about the rubber of the OEM Seadoo o-ring, and if a substandard material might degrade, melt and destroy something as a result of using it.

Called brick and mortar local NAPA parts store, and got an idea, which I'll detail in my next post.
 
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So I called the local NAPA store and the counterman there said that he simply didn't have any o-rings for use in "exhaust", and he thought it would be a bad idea to use anything else other than an o-ring made for exhaust purposes, but then when I asked, he said he didn't know if there was different kinds of rubber (or other material) for use in o-rings in high-heat environments. He said that was an "internet thing". So that's when I got my BIG IDEA.

I looked up on "the internet" and found this stuff called "Viton" which while searching eBay for examples of "Viton O-rings" seems to be a green colored rubber and is used for high-heat environments. And I'm wondering if a Viton O-ring might not be BETTER suited for the high-heat environment of the RAVE valve system, than the part Seadoo is gouging people, asking $6.00 each for their official OEM part. And that's why I posted this thread.

To explore the possibility that you can get a better quality replacement o-ring for less money. If this "Viton" stuff is the magic bullet, or maybe there is something better. And also what dimensions the original (or replacement) o-rings should have, such as outside diameter, inside diamter and material thickness. Does someone want to say that there is something REALLY SPECIAL about the OEM Seadoo part's material (I doubt it, but could be wrong), and if there will be a permanent rent in the universe's space/time continuum if someone uses a non-OEM replacement o-ring in the RAVE valve system.

Other Questions:

Some aftermarket RAVE Valve Rebuild Kits I see on eBay contain a single RAVE base gasket, the lower-quality aftermarket green bellows and TWO o-rings, for something like $14.00. Consensus seems to be that RAVE valve leaks never happen due to the base gasket (but instead are always due to a failed o-ring), and the green bellows are considered an inferior replacement to the higher-quality red bellows, but the eBay vendors are sending TWO o-rings and so I wonder if some machines use two o-rings, and if so, where they both might go, and if using two on my machine might be better than the one that was used originally when the machine was made at the factory.
 
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The ones from Seadoo are standard black o-rings and not viton. Also all the OEM ones I have received recently and installed fit snug on the shafts and not loose.
As far as the bellows the green ones are the new ones and the red ones are no longer available even from seadoo. There is a quality difference between the cheap aftermarket ones and the actual Seadoo ones but all are now green.

The o-rings for your ski are #420430110 and are $3.49 each from seadoo.
The ones for a 951 are #420931765 and are $0.99.
Are sure he sent you the correct ones for your 787 or ones from a 951. Either way I would order the ones from Seadoo, spend the $7 and be done with it.
 
BTW, Viton is a high temp and very chemical resistant rubber. So it likely is a good choice. But Viton is typically dark brown to black in color. I have never seen green viton. It is a fluoroelastomer. Do youself a favor and follow the advice above. Then for your knowledge, use the McMaster-Carr website for MRO types parts information. They have an amazing site with tons of information on most materials. Look at this page... http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=14935cy
 
BTW, Viton is a high temp and very chemical resistant rubber. So it likely is a good choice. But Viton is typically dark brown to black in color. I have never seen green viton. It is a fluoroelastomer. Do youself a favor and follow the advice above. Then for your knowledge, use the McMaster-Carr website for MRO types parts information. They have an amazing site with tons of information on most materials. Look at this page... http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=14935cy

Okay so I find the place on the center left of the page where you can specify inside, outside diameter and material thickness, but then how do I know what those spec's are on the original Seadoo O-ring? I guess I could take an old one and find someone with a micrometer, but it would be nice if there were full physical specs of this part. I'm liking the Viton idea more and more, btw. I'm also getting the idea that the O.D and material thickness are secondary to the fact that the I.D fits "snug" to the valve.

What about the 2 o-rings question?
 
There is just one on each valve. I would use OEM BRP rings. I only referenced McMaster as a great place to learn about materials. Any deviation from BRP stuff and you may be better or worse off. Go with stock and enjoy for many years.
 
There is just one on each valve. I would use OEM BRP rings. I only referenced McMaster as a great place to learn about materials. Any deviation from BRP stuff and you may be better or worse off. Go with stock and enjoy for many years.

+1 soccerdad. Most of the original ones have lasted 15 years before needing replaced. At $0.50 per year I think it is a pretty good deal.
 
One more thing to consider. If the o-rings are the correct ones and do not fit snug, that is a good sign it is time to replace the guillotine and housing. They are worn out of specs.
 
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