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Rave valve cleaning

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mjchevyss1

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When I clean my rave vales do I need to have any gaskets or O rings ordered prior?

I dont want to Break anything so is there a specific way to adjust and remove and install?
 
Here is some information to the annual cleaning of the RAVE valve;
The RAVE, (Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust) valves are located above the exhaust valve. There are 2 of them per engine. They are round with a red adjustment screw in the middle. It has a clip that holds it together. How they work is that they open the exhaust port larger as the engine rpm's increase. When the rpm's drop down so do the RAVE valves. They work on the principle of the pressure of the exhaust system. Rpm's increase, pressure increases and the valve opens, rpm's drop pressure drops, Valve closes. They should be de-carbonized annual. To disassemble the rave valves, remove the spring clip on top, remove the black cover. There is a spring under the cover. Remove the piston by turning it with a metric socket. On the bottom of the piston is the rubber "Bellows" be careful with the small retaining spring that hold the bellows on the piston. Remove the 2 allen screws that hold the base on the cylinder. Remove the base and gasket. The long valve won't fall in the cylinder just pull it out. There is an o ring under the base, on the shaft of the guillotine valve. Be careful to see how it came apart as it has to go back together that same way again. On the base, notice the notch that it is facing down. Clean all the carbon off the guillotine valve. I use carb cleaner and 400 grit paper. Check the bellows for any small pin holes. If so replace it. If not, reassemble it on the clean guillotine valve, and install it back on the engine the same way it came apart. The guillotine valve only fits one way. The one closest to the exhaust pipe will come off differently then the other one. You will have to remove the allen screws and turn the base so it clears the exhaust pipe. I would do one at a time in case you forget how it goes back together again. This way you can look at the other one and copy it. Do both engines 2 per engine. Take your time and if you have questions give us a shout. We'll be here to help you out.
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly and could be causing your problem.

The adjustment knob (the red cap) should either be screwed all the way in or flush to the top of the black ring of the cap. This will only affect performance, as far as how it jumps out of the hole or how well it runs for extended periods at WOT.

Do you have a seadoo shop manual? If not here’s an idea for you. You could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and private use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too. Premium members get priority when it comes to getting quick detailed answers.


Karl
 
Pop the top off first thing, and if you see oil seeping past the round spring that holds the bellows onto the piston, but nowhere else, you may need to replace those springs to make a tighter fit.

Just assume you need new o-rings, since they harden up pretty quickly, and they are cheap.

If you see more oil under the cap, assume your bellows is ripped, and order one or 2 of them.

This is just looking under the plastic top with the red screw in it. You can disassemble them completely in minutes and verify what you need.
 
I didn't need any gaskets when I removed the RAVEs. But if they tear or are damaged, then they should be replaced.

You should order a pair and keep them handy. Eventually you will need to clean them again and having them ready to go for next time is good piece of mind.
 
Thank you guys!! I really apperciate all your help. I will clean them today then water test it saturday.. Depending on the weather (Hail storms) what the hell.

Thanks again
 
Putting RAVE valves back together

Hey all,

My Dad is cleaning the RAVE valves on my ski. I'm in another state, so my apologies for the sketchy description. I'll try to pass it along as he told me.

1996 SeaDoo XP - he's taken the RAVE valves apart and cleaned them. Upon going to reassemble, there is one piece that was about 2 inches long by 3/8 inch thick by 6 inches long. At the bottom of this "blade", it's "concave". Apparently, it can go back in either way, with the concave facing 180 degrees either way, and my Dad wasn't sure which way it should be reinstalled, or if it even matters.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
 
I'm guessing you're talking about the actual valve. It shoudl say TOP on one face. Clean it off well, and you'll see it.
 
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