Question about wear ring replacement, drive shaft covers...etc WITH PICS

[coletrain777]

So...
I finally decided to pull the pumps on my 1800 Sportster and here is what I found:

Now for questions:

1. The clearance on the wear rings is very acceptable (well below the limit), but there are a few spots on each ring at the outside where there are noticeable gouges/chunks. The rest of the rings look pretty good, but I assume that they should be replaced b/c of the damage???

2. The working edges of the impellers look brand new, not a scratch on them, but as you can see the flat edge on each one is a little banged up. I am guessing that isn't a problem as the flat section shouldn't do have much of any effect on propulsion... is this correct? I have no idea how this would have happened unless they came like this from the factory.

3. What is the cone type seal that is in the end of each pump that the driveshaft slides into? One of these seals was folded back on it's lip, should I replace it? Would this seal being boogered up have any effect on the drive of the pumps?

4. Finally, as you can see in the pics the driveshaft cover on my left driveshaft is broken up, and the rights one is almost completely gone. How essential are these? I just can't see any real use for them, but if they are needed I will replace them while I am in there.

 

[Dr Honda]

1) They look fine, and should work OK. If you want to change them... that's up to you. It will help with fuel consumption if they are smooth, and tight.

2) The leading edge of the impeller can cause light cavitation. I would simply take a file to it, and smooth them out. You don't have to file it straight again... just take off the rough edges.

3) yes... replace the seal. It's there to keep grease down in the impeller splines, and keeps the driveshaft from rusting. The cone seal is only a few $$.

4) They suck... and they cause more issues than they help. Remove the good one.. and cut it flush with the hull, and snap the end back in. The busted off one is almost perfect. Just clean up the sharp edges.

 

[coletrain777]

Dr - I have cavitation on my hole shot (a decent amount, but just on heavy throttle out of the hole), but you don't think that the wear rings are probably the culprit? I guess another area to check would be the carbon seal... I was just hoping I would find the wear rings were worn and that would be the end of it.

If the silicone between the pump and the hull wasn't 100% would this cause cavitation like I mentioned?

I would just go step by step but water is over an hour from me and $45 in fuel each time I tow to the lake and back.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Dr Honda]

Cavitation is cause by air in the pump. You can either suck it in (past a seal) or you can actually boil the water. (rough edges on the impeller)

So... if you had RTV sealing the pump... and it wasn't good. That can cause bad cavitation... but I'm going to bet that it's air getting past the carbon seal on the drive shaft. The boats are heavy... and they can pull the carbon seal back easier than the skis will. Some drive shafts have a few notches, and you may be able to just put more pressure on the seal.

 

[coletrain777]

where is the best place to purchase a carbon ring online if/when I need one?

 

[ocod]

Shop around and check differences in shipping.
May get lucky and get free shipping

Try parts link above or osdparts.com.

 

[jsp]

I just did the exact same thing on my 1800 sportster, I replaced my wear rings even tho they were not all that bad. Then just this past weekend I decided to pull the pumps off again and do the carbon seal. I replaced everything as I was sick of the cavitation issue, So I put in brand new oem stainless rings, carbon rings, o-rings and the black bellows boots that the carbon ring sits in on both drives, I'm hoping the issue will be a thing of the past

I agree that these boats are heavy. So the pumps create quite the suction and will easily suck air into the pump through the carbon ring.

I'm hoping to find out with in next couple weeks that I solved my issue once and for all!!!

I'm thinking it was my carbon rings all along. As I could pull them away from the stainless ring with 2 fingers!! :s and I had major cavitation issues. Like 1 engine would barely move the boat on the last run out. And with feathering the throttles for both engines I could barely get the boat on plane.

 

[Biffitis]

Not to hijack the thread, but where do you go boating JSP? Anywhere local? Also, where are you getting your parts? Locally or mail order?

 

[jsp]

Hey Biffitis, I actually keep the boat down in dunnville on lake erie. But I go all over really. Bellwood lake, lake Huron. We're in a pretty good place as Ontario has some real good boating places! Where do you usually go?

I usually deal with my local seadoo dealer. He treats me pretty well and doesnt take me for granted. But that doesn't mean still don't check online first to see the prices. If its just a few bucks more I'll go where I can pick it up and if I have problems I know where to go.

 

[Biffitis]

I took my Challenger up to Bellwood Lake the weekend I bought it (last fall) just for a quick launch / road test, so to speak. We've got a cottage up near Huntsville so I had it in the water on Thanksgiving weekend last year, but that was it. I did some work to the jet drive over the winter so I'm dying to get it on the water again to see the improvement. I'll probably drag it up to Barrie a few times this summer since I've got some friends up there and could leave it at their place for a few weekends. I also might just drop in in Lake Ontario for a quick run before I drag it anywhere lengthy. I'm only about 30 min from there...

 

[griz400]

osdparts.com has an extra firm boot, that i put on yesterday on my ski, which is just a little longer and is firmer, fits nice though, check em out