Question about swapping out oil in tank...would this be ok?

[SeaDooGood]

I have a 97 XP and I've been doing some required maintenance and one thing I noticed was that the oil in the tank appears to be a blue/green color which I was told is most like regular TC-W3 oil which is the wrong kind to use (even the guy I bought it from said to use TC-W3 when I asked him what kind of oil he had been using). I'm not mechanically inclined in the least bit and want to try and swap out the oil as simple as possible. My question is...could I most likely get away with just using a hand pump and pumping all the oil out of the tank and then just filling it up with the correct XPS synthetic oil that is required? I was thinking about even clamping off the hose before and after the filter and putting a new filter on and then filling the tank back up with the correct oil. Do y'all think the little amount on the hoses will cause a problem? I'm kind of nervous to remove all of these hoses and doing something wrong like getting air in the line and want to make is as easy as possible. Thanks in advance!

 

[mikidymac]

The easy way is to pump out as much oil from the tank as you can.
Then pull the big oil hose off the engine cases under the carbs and let it drain onto a rag or paper towels.
Then pull the white inline oil filter off and drain the rest.
Take the oil tank out and rinse with gas or safe solvent and let dry. It is easy on the 1997+ XP's to get the tank out.
Install tank, new oil filter and connect all hoses.
Fill tank with correct oil.
Open oil pump bleed screw to get out all air and remaining old oil. Don't overtighten bleed screw as they break easy.
Start ski and hold oil pump lever wide open when idling until you see the new oil flow all the way into the little hoses from the pump to intake manifold. You should see it push all the oil out.

Note: As I said this is the easiest not the cleanest. You will get oil everywhere so have a full roll of paper towels ready.

 

[SeaDooGood]

The easy way is to pump out as much oil from the tank as you can.
Then pull the big oil hose off the engine cases under the carbs and let it drain onto a rag or paper towels.
Then pull the white inline oil filter off and drain the rest.
Take the oil tank out and rinse with gas or safe solvent and let dry. It is easy on the 1997+ XP's to get the tank out.
Install tank, new oil filter and connect all hoses.
Fill tank with correct oil.
Open oil pump bleed screw to get out all air and remaining old oil. Don't overtighten bleed screw as they break easy.
Start ski and hold oil pump lever wide open when idling until you see the new oil flow all the way into the little hoses from the pump to intake manifold. You should see it push all the oil out.

Note: As I said this is the easiest not the cleanest. You will get oil everywhere so have a full roll of paper towels ready.

From the diagram it looks like there are two injection line hoses going to the engine, one that has the in-line oil filter going to the oil pump and the other one going to the other side of the engine to the crankcase where the rotary valve is...correct? Is the "big oil hose off the engine cases under the carbs" the return hose going back to the top of the oil tank where the vent is? I'm confused....they're looks to be only 3 hoses on the diagram.

Someone mentioned to lower the return hose until oil starts coming out so no air will get in it???

 

[Pointhunter75]

Check your grommets on the bottom of the tank while it's empty. I've got one leaking on my 95 I've gotta deal with soon.

 

[mikidymac]

The big oil line feeds from the bottom of the tank to the side of the case under the carbs and is the feed line then on the other side under the pipe is the vent line to the top of the oil tank so removing the low one under the carbs will get most of the oil out of the rotary gear area.
The third line goes from the bottom of the tank to the oil filter then to the oil pump.

 

[SeaDooGood]

The big oil line feeds from the bottom of the tank to the side of the case under the carbs and is the feed line then on the other side under the pipe is the vent line to the top of the oil tank so removing the low one under the carbs will get most of the oil out of the rotary gear area.
The third line goes from the bottom of the tank to the oil filter then to the oil pump.

The big oil line you're referring to is the one coming of the VERY BOTTOM nipple of the grommet correct? Is this line a continuous feed bath to the rotary valve? The vent line which comes off the other side of the engine and goes to the top of the tank...is this line suppose to have oil in it or just air? I noticed it has oil in it but then about 6 inches from the top where it goes into the vent there isn't any oil (basically the hose has oil in it almost all the way towards the top), so I'm assuming it's just air in the last part?

The third line (which has the in-line filter) goes from the bottom of the tank (but the TOP nipple on the grommet) to the oil pump...correct (which is on the same side as the vent line hose comes out of)? Does oil come out of this line to? Is this actually the "injection system" that pumps oil to the engine (pistons, manifolds, etc)? Sorry...just trying to get this all straight to understand it.

 

[mikidymac]

The big oil line you're referring to is the one coming of the VERY BOTTOM nipple of the grommet correct? YESIs this line a continuous feed bath to the rotary valve? YESThe vent line which comes off the other side of the engine and goes to the top of the tank...is this line suppose to have oil in it or just air? I noticed it has oil in it but then about 6 inches from the top where it goes into the vent there isn't any oil (basically the hose has oil in it almost all the way towards the top), so I'm assuming it's just air in the last part?
Also Correct. Oil just like water will seek it's own level so the "vent" line will have oil in it up to the level of the oil in the tank.

The third line (which has the in-line filter) goes from the bottom of the tank (but the TOP nipple on the grommet) to the oil pump...correct (which is on the same side as the vent line hose comes out of)? Does oil come out of this line to? Is this actually the "injection system" that pumps oil to the engine (pistons, manifolds, etc)? Sorry...just trying to get this all straight to understand it.

Also correct. This smaller oil line transfers oil from the tank through the filter by gravity then into the oil pump. The pump then pressurizes the oil through the two small 3/32" lines into the intake manifold.

 

[racerxxx]

Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, I guess you didn't like the way I explained it last week? Not trying to sound like a jackass but I gave you the blow by blow with pics to make it easy.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...ow-the-oil-injection-system-works-on-my-97-XP

 

[SeaDooGood]

Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, I guess you didn't like the way I explained it last week? Not trying to sound like a jackass but I gave you the blow by blow with pics to make it easy.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...ow-the-oil-injection-system-works-on-my-97-XP

Sorry but I still didn't understand exactly how the hoses worked. I've been studying your post and this one to clarify it more. I'm just not that mechanically inclined whatsoever! I actually almost sold the ski after I bought it due to fear of not being able to properly maintain it and fix issues that arise. Your post actually made me more nervous bc it seemed complicated that's why I was asking if I could do it this way and get by.

 

[Pointhunter75]

The one with the air in it near the top is the return line and having oil up to the site is fine. Mine is the same way.. About 4 or 5 inches of air at the top. The big one feeds the engine

 

[racerxxx]

Pump the tank out and do the following--look at the pics. It's super easy, perhaps there is a local mechanic that won't rake you over the coals to do this service. These are very mechanical toys so you're either gonna learn real fast or pay someone to service it for you unfortunately. I think once you build confidence you'll realize how fun and easy it is to work on them.



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[racerxxx]

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[SeaDooGood]

Pump the tank out and do the following--look at the pics. It's super easy, perhaps there is a local mechanic that won't rake you over the coals to do this service. These are very mechanical toys so you're either gonna learn real fast or pay someone to service it for you unfortunately. I think once you build confidence you'll realize how fun and easy it is to work on them.

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Thanks again for bearing with me. I didn't mean for this thread to come across as what you told me was wrong or I was questioning it, I just felt like I was probably going to screw it up after reading your 18 steps. I least now I got a full understanding of how the oil injection system works. There are a total of 3 hoses. One large hose (without the filter) going from the bottom of the grommet to one side of the crankcase where the rotary valve is, another smaller hose (with the in-line filter) going from the top nipple of the grommet to the oil pump where the pump then injects it into the engine (pistons, manifold, etc), and then the third "vent" hose coming off the other side of the crankcase going to the top of the oil tank.

I keep reading about the "two small 3/32" lines"....are these lines INSIDE the engine? Not sure where these lines are or what people keep refering to when they talk about these lines? Could you clarify because I thought there were a total of THREE lines/hoses? Thanks!

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

Okay do you see the oil filter? Follow that big line down from the filter to the oil pump. The two 3/32" oil lines are attached to the top of that oil pump. Pull them off, replace them. You can get the small 3/32" oil lines at any parts store.

 

[SeaDooGood]

Pump the tank out and do the following--look at the pics. It's super easy, perhaps there is a local mechanic that won't rake you over the coals to do this service. These are very mechanical toys so you're either gonna learn real fast or pay someone to service it for you unfortunately. I think once you build confidence you'll realize how fun and easy it is to work on them.

View attachment 30758

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When I disconnect the top return line, I will disconnect it at the top of the tank where you have it circled....correct? After I disconnect this line, instead of letting the oil drain into the hull could I possibly lower it a drain into a cup or even suction it out the hose? Just trying to think of a way to not have as much a mess lol. Also, I asked the guy who rebuilt my pump about changing out the oil and he mentioned something about "being careful not to get air into that line bc it could mess up the engine." Was he referring to the two lines coming off the bottom of the tank or just the one line going to the oil pump? Is there a "bleed screw" for both lines coming off the bottom of the tank?

 

[racerxxx]

Yes, that's why I circled it there. If you go back and read my 18 steps you'll see that I said to duck out the lines. You can drain it into what ever you want, but if that is higher than the level of the oil below nothing is going to come out. Again, that's why I said it's easiest just to let it flop. He's talking about air in the oil supply lines to the pump and the little lines from the pump. You're going to have to bleed that and make sure the little oil lines are primed. Any way you slice it you're gonna have oil make a mess in the hull. If your not comfortable, I'd ask the local dude how much he'll charge you.

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[SeaDooGood]

Yes, that's why I circled it there. If you go back and read my 18 steps you'll see that I said to duck out the lines. You can drain it into what ever you want, but if that is higher than the level of the oil below nothing is going to come out. Again, that's why I said it's easiest just to let it flop. He's talking about air in the oil supply lines to the pump and the little lines from the pump. You're going to have to bleed that and make sure the little oil lines are primed. Any way you slice it you're gonna have oil make a mess in the hull. If your not comfortable, I'd ask the local dude how much he'll charge you.

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One last thing for now....does the bleed screw, when you turn it, bleed BOTH the big line going to the side of the crankcase with the rotary valve AND the line going to the pump with the in-line filter? Or do you bleed one and just "prime" the other one by letting gravity drain the oil through the line?

 

[racerxxx]

It just bleeds the line that runs to the pump. Just crack it loose and let the gravity do the work for you. The just carefully snug it up. The you will need to prime the 3/32" lines. You can either remove the spark plugs and ground the wire to their ground posts, pour some of the oil you're switching to down the spark plug holes to lube the cylinders. The toss a rag over the plug holes and crank teh engine over with the starter while holding the oil pump wide open and watch the lines fill. Crank for 10 seconds, wait a minute, crank for 10 second, wait a minute and continue until they're full. Or if you want after you pour oil down there, put it back together and fire it up and quickly hold the oil pump wide open. I always pre-mix my first tank @ 40:1 so I don't have to sweat any lack of oil, then once I start it I can let it idle and grab the oil pump and hold it wide open.


As far as bleeding the rotary shaft. Steps 11 and 12. I think I pretty much hit it on that list. Even the above is on that list 15,16, and 17.

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

My man, you are way overthinking this. This is a very easy process, you're going to just have to get out there and do it. The 97 XP has to be the easiest oil to change of all the two strokes. Pull the big hose going underneath the carbs out, drain it into an jug, figure out how to get the rest of the oil out of the lines. Many suggestions have been given on how to do this. The big oil lines will not have to be bled, they will fill up. Then drain the line with the oil filter. Clean out the oil tank with some gas after its all drained. Put it back in, hook up the lines, fill it up. If you have a bubble on the line with the filter, post back again. We will walk you through getting that out. This is a 20 minute job. Sorry to sound harsh but it is easy, just don't overthink it. Everything will be fine

 

[Pointhunter75]

You could go to the part store and buy some hose pinchers and clamp the lines close to the engine and pull them off to avoid some mess in the hull, then drain into a jug. Fill tank and loosen the pinchers some and let the hoses bleed into a jug till the hoses are near full. That may make it easier. The 3\32" little oil lines are going to be a tight fit on the little injection nipples. Put some small zip ties or the factory crimps on them. They CAN'T come off while riding so make sure they're tightly zip tired or crimped. Mine took forever to bleed those little hoses while holding the pump lever fully opened while running. I added oil to the gas as mentioned above just in case.

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

There are 1000 ways to skin a cat, just like how everyone would drain the oil tank a little bit different. They all work tho

 

[SeaDooGood]

Update: Went out and bought some quicksilver full synthetic PWC 2 stroke oil ($39 as oppose to $55 for XPS 2) and got the damn tank drained lol! It was bit of a mess, but I was able to get almost all of the oil out the tank. Put a new OEM filter on and let the new oil run through and then connected it back without any air bubbles. They may be a bit of old oil in the lines and engine, but I'm assuming and hoping it will just burn up after the first ride. Only the new oil went through the new filter, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed this will work out fine. Put some new cable ties on each side of the filter and that was it. Besides some a little oil getting into the bottom of the hull (caught most with cups) I think it went ok! Thanks guys for all y'all help and patience lol!