Priming fuel system

[Charleston]

Hello all!

I am trying to start my new (well, not new) 1996 Challenger and noticed the fuel lines are bone dry. Not dry rotted. Empty. It looks like this has some sort of fuel pump. How do I get it to prime the system?

Also, if you actually DO have a 1996 seadoo Challenger, can you please take a picture of your electric box in the engine compartment behind the middle seat. This would be with the cover off, please. I saw some yellow wires not connected. I want also verify thing are where they belong.

This system has a single, 787 equipped.

Thanks
Charleston

 

[Dr Honda]

The fuel pump is in the carbs. If the system doesn't have any air leaks... you should be able to draw fuel, and have a start in about 5 to 10 seconds. There is no need to "Prime" the system.

 

[Charleston]

Thank you for the Feedback Dr. Honda! :thumbsup:

Do you have any suggested process to test the fuel system for leaks? Should I look to detach the fuel line at the "Y" near the carb and blow backwards though the system? Is there a suggested vacuum pump system I could buy to test the fuel system?

Also, you mentioned the fuel pump is in the carbs. Since this does break off into a ""Y", I can assume there is two pumps on this 787 engine?

Thank you
Charleston.

 

[brian lewis087]

check your pulse line to the motor

 

[Charleston]

Testing for fuel leak so far:
1. I added a plastic bag to fuel cap to plug it.
2. Detached fuel lines at "Y" detailed above and fed low pressure air backwards toward the main fuel filter and tank.
3. Used soapy water to detect leaks at filler tube, near sensor baffle (connected to tank), fuel filter, around tank. Still nothing.

What I did notice today is that when I put on the DESS key, the light turns on for the fuel gauge but the needle never moves. Does this stay in the dead position until after it actually starts or do you see what I think and that baffle unit foater is broken.

Does the floater give a notice there is no fuel or is that too high tech for these toys?

As for the suggestion of "pulse line," I have no idea what you are referring to. I tried a few google searches and looked on the seadoo parts catalog but didn't see anything that would refer to this. If at all possible let me know which Assembly print and print part # it would be and I will be able to figure it out.

Thank you so much
Charleston

 

[Guest_User]

download a shop service manual for your boat and you`ll familiarize yourself with the terms the forum members use to diagnose your boat.

good luck...

 

[Charleston]

Nice Challenger 1800 rehab pic, Pale Rider. After I have some fun with Challenger, I plan to move up to that size jetboat, preferably with dual motors.

Definitely no leaks in main fuel system. I did find that the fuel pump is located attached to the MAG Carburetor and defined in the part print as #53. Additionally, there is a small fuel filter in this assembly as part print #22. I've been told that this could be either a diaphragm (#54) or filter issue (#22). Now comes the fun part of removing the stock flame arrestor assembly to get access.

Looking for an alternate hand pump gauge tester to Seadoo P/N (295 000 085) defined in their service manual. Thanks

Does anyone know the costs to have a service rebuilt a set of carbs on a 787? Just wondering if it is value added. Thanks

Charleston

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

When I'm buttoning up a carb rebuild and before reconnecing the return fuel line going back to the tanks, I typically connect a temporary piece of tubing on the fuel return at the carbs and pull fuel into the fuel pump and through the feed side of the carbs to make the initial start-up easier.

If there's any gray fuel line on there, you'll want to replace it before it turns to goo and plugs the tiny internal carburetor fuel filter thimbles.

And avoid running a 2 stroke if it's lean bogging or not making power, fix the problem instead. A cylinder that's not being fueled(due to a plugged carb, for instance) is also not getting lubricant.

Compression check is a good idea to obtain a baseline so you're not wasting your time and $$$$

And I don't use ether starting fluid, I mix up a small batch of pre-mix and keep it in a squirt bottle. These motors won't break if you give them some oil.

 

[Guest_User]

Charleston, for you!
http://www.sea-doo.net/SHOPMANUALS/JETBOATS/1996-1997/JBOAT_A/1996/LMRV1_A.PDF


I regret everyday that I have not opened up a shop in the south to service and repair jetboats...
If I only knew there were that many to keep me busy on just the boats, I`d start tomorrow...:coolgleam:

 

[Charleston]

Great news team. Just an update to it all for posterity and for all the other readers!

I removed the final line to the fuel pump (attached to the MAG carb) along with the flame arrestor body black box and grate. What do you know. The hose was plugged. Hose blown out. The grate was pretty much mucked up too. Grate was cleaned with carb cleaner and you can actually see through it. No need for a new one.

I bought a Pressure/Vacuum tester from Harbor Freight (U.S. General - item# 93547) and tested it during a trial start. This was in lieu of the shop manual component (P / N 295 000 085). Pulled about 2 units showing the pump was working.

Reattached lines and cranked it for about half a minute and there she went off back ALIVE. She is ALIVE!

Great news is a carb rebuild is not required. For those curious about the quoted prices, I had a range of 400.00 + parts to as little at 150.00 + parts for a two-carb rebuild for a 787. The cheaper quote is from a smaller performance store that said, if I bought in the carbs ONLY, they would do the work.

Charleston.

 

[Bills86e]

Fog your engine AFTER useing your boat. Use the same hole to squirt in pre-mix fuel into the airbox for a faster starting motor, and is important in that the starter motor will have a longer life. Warm/hot motors create steam, it can find its way to the raw crank bearings, wrist pins and cylinder walls, and then while your motor rests/stored rust begin$. Fogging is my best advice I can give you.

Bills86e