ok so i have just rebuilt the carbs on my 1996 GTX and now the oil injection cable keeps coming off of its connection at the oil injection pump, i want to start premixing instead of using the injection system b/c the lines are already cracked. Should i just leave the injection cable disconnected? And what do i have to do to start premixing ( is there any spcial prep or things i should be aware of? and whats the oil to gas ratio?
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Premix??
- Thread starter DDDDDD
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timmyboy76
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You can block off the line goin to te injection pump, and then start premix'n at 40-50/1, but best thing is to install an oil injection block-off kit (15buks). You'll need to leave the oil in the tank though, since it lubes the RV assy
then again im kinda of torn between keeping it and getting rid of it. I know it uses oil b/c i see the level go down on the tank, im just worried b/c the lines are cracked (not leaking) and im just really frustrated with this darn cable, it wont stay on and it is a pain to connect, i have pulled the carbs off 4 times today...
If you switch to premix you'd remove that cable and the pump and install a blockoff plate. Some people actually remove the oil tank as well and just loop a hose from the outlet side of the rotary valve reservoir to the inlet side. But you'd have to make sure you got all the air out of the line if you did that.
DDDD, check to make sure the cable is hooking behind the little holder tab and that it is not broken. There is a ton of info in the forum debating premixing vs. using the oil injection.
If you decide to go premix you can't just leave the cable off and then premix, you'll get may too much oil.
The best way I've found is to pull the oil pump, remove the oil pump shaft and reinstall the pump and leave the oil tank still hooked up to the oil pump with some oil left in the tank. That way you know the RV is getting protected.
Ryan
If you decide to go premix you can't just leave the cable off and then premix, you'll get may too much oil.
The best way I've found is to pull the oil pump, remove the oil pump shaft and reinstall the pump and leave the oil tank still hooked up to the oil pump with some oil left in the tank. That way you know the RV is getting protected.
Ryan
timmyboy76
New Member
Not sure on difficulty of the block-off, but 717/650/587 aint bad. You can check in "PARTS" tab to look at schematic, as to how its installed/removed, but with oil throttle cable, nah, and with block-off kit, should have rubber caps, to install on resivoir bottle and brass "nipple" fittings on RV assy.:cheers:
i just cant get that cable hooked back up on the oil pump, its like there isnt enough cable to reach the spot where it loops up and connects, this is really frustrating me and im at my wits end. The oil lines are good too, i thought they were cracking but they were just painted white from the engine (the black lines beneath are fine)
Cool, there is an adjustment for the cable. You might have to loosen the cable, get it back in there and then re tighten to align the pump. Loosen jam nut and turn cable adjustment nut to obtain proper pump setting.
The adjustment nut and jam nut for the oil injection pump cable are located at the cable support on the throttle body.
Make sure you are right on line with the alignment marks on the pump.
The adjustment nut and jam nut for the oil injection pump cable are located at the cable support on the throttle body.
Make sure you are right on line with the alignment marks on the pump.
thank you very much, i think that pic will help. But is that pic of the pump open or closed (full throttle or idle)? Also on my pump the thing that the cable rides in and hooks to (i dont know what it is called, the semi circle with the groove for the cable to ride in) doesnt seen to have any spring to it so the cable keeps coming off track on the carberator side of things, and when i position it like in the pic i dont have enough cable to allow it to move. What could be causing this?
No spring, no problem. Sometimes when messing around with the pump lever the spring gets off track. That picture is with the cable at idle. If you can look down in there, I know it's hard to see, try to find the spring coil, it has a little hook on it and should catch when you turn it one way or the other to give it tension. May have to take the pump off to get it back on.
Mirror?...
I use a mirror to see what I'm doing down there, since it's in such a hard to see area.
I don't recommend pre-mix because your going to spend a lot more money in oil than you can imagine. The variable rate injection pump is really easy on the oil.
If you use a mirror, you'll see there are 2 small allen head bolts that hold that thing on. Take those two out and pull the pump up so you can see it/work on it.
You mentioned the "cracked" lines. I dont' think they are cracked. I may be wrong but my small oil lines that lead to each carb are painted white. When I moved them around, they would crack. But that cracking is the paint, not the hoses.
One last thing. The oil injection pump has to be syncronized with the carbs. This is done with the MAG idle stop screw backed out and the carbs completly closed. Then, you'll align the cam (the half moon thingy you were talkin about) to the pump where the marks are. The pix nswillin put in looks good but I can't read that fine print. If that says its the alignment, it's a little off the marks. That's probably because after aligning it, you turn the idle stop screw in 2 full turns.
Pull the pump, look at the cam. See if you can determine if your spring is sprung or if there is something causing it to jump the groove.....:cheers:
I use a mirror to see what I'm doing down there, since it's in such a hard to see area.
I don't recommend pre-mix because your going to spend a lot more money in oil than you can imagine. The variable rate injection pump is really easy on the oil.
If you use a mirror, you'll see there are 2 small allen head bolts that hold that thing on. Take those two out and pull the pump up so you can see it/work on it.
You mentioned the "cracked" lines. I dont' think they are cracked. I may be wrong but my small oil lines that lead to each carb are painted white. When I moved them around, they would crack. But that cracking is the paint, not the hoses.
One last thing. The oil injection pump has to be syncronized with the carbs. This is done with the MAG idle stop screw backed out and the carbs completly closed. Then, you'll align the cam (the half moon thingy you were talkin about) to the pump where the marks are. The pix nswillin put in looks good but I can't read that fine print. If that says its the alignment, it's a little off the marks. That's probably because after aligning it, you turn the idle stop screw in 2 full turns.
Pull the pump, look at the cam. See if you can determine if your spring is sprung or if there is something causing it to jump the groove.....:cheers:
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