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Preferred external hose connections

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drjack

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I recently rebuilt the carbs and want to do some intial setups while the boat is on the trailer. The way I'm reading the manual, I can either connect the hose on the top deck, or at the threaded port near the impeller.
I maybe at this carb adjusting for a while so I'm curious to know if there is a preferred hose connection? Is one connection better cooling than the other?
 
Going in thru the back is better. The top port Y's to the back on the pump support and will cut flow down, letting it flush out that port. If you set your carb to the factory setting you should be good to go. You might have to tweak the idle a tad and sync the carbs but that should be it. #k rpm out of water will get you the correct idle in water.
 
Even on the hose you should not run it for more than a minute. Assuming you have a carbon seal, they get hot and can damage themselves if not in the water.
 
Well, there's another issue for my reason to run longer. I did the hose connetion at the top deck, started the engine, turned on the water supply, but had to shut down quickly as the tach was running at 6k to 7k rpm, or better. That's when I noticed the bilge has about a pail full of fresh water. I can't find the source anywhere yet. The muffler, exhaust hose and tuned resonator areas are dry. The hose connected to the top deck is dry as far down as I can reach or detect until it disappears under the engine.
I'm debating the thought to remove the exhaust horn on the starboard side, just before the muffler, to have a closer look as this area is completely out of sight unless I remove the exhaust system.
Any thoughts?
 
I'll see what I can do.
 

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To add with reference to the above pics,...it's dry aft the bilge pump for the port side. As for the starboard side, it also seems dry aft the carbon seal. My fingers are crossed it's not pissin' out of the block, but I'm detecting any water droplets hanging from the underside of the engine.
 
Removing the pipe on the 951 is not the easiest to do, many guys gripe about it. There is actually a special wrench to do it, unless you remove the carbs which gives you more room. I would look at the pipe as close as possible. There are caps/plugs that are welded on there to seal up the cooling chamber on the main pipe. They do rot out and when they rot, they will leak water. Use a mirror to inspect them. I would spend the time inspecting everything before resorting to removing the exhaust.
 
Look at the top of the pipe where it says warning hot, there are two plugs on the top right there and 2 underneath IIRC
 
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