Port Engine hard to start...

[Jfrymania]

Hey guys, alot of ya'll was helping with the following thread http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?49248-Help-please-Not-sure-what-to-do! and kinda wanted to close that one out and start from after the fact. Thanks to everyone I tore it down to see the rotary valve spinning freely and took it to the lake for a spin. While at the lake after it being hard to start, meaning holding the choke open while pushing the start button for 7-10 secs about four or fives times before it fired up. We ran the boat for about 25 minutes and then cut the engines off. When I went to start the port engine it died after turning over and running for 10 secs. then would not start. I had to wait about five minutes and then pulled the choke open and it took about the same as starting when first launching at the lake (hold choke open then push start button about three times for 7-10 secs at a time). It runs great once it fires up and stays started. I just am not sure why it would need the choke opened everytime I go to start it. This will be a pain when I have the kids in it tubin and swimmin.

Lou gave the advice to clean the spark/flame arrestor, so i pulled both of them and was shocked at which one was dirtier. Attached a photo to help. As you can tell the nasty one came off the starboard engine which fires up easy everytime and restarts like nothing. I soaked them in Purple power and washed out with hot water and now letting them soak in Dawn til bed time. I also went ahead and changed out the spark plugs (attached photo) event though they were new by only a few runs on the lake.

If anyone has any advice or help on this it would be appreciated. I aint very mechanical but can listen to instructions like no other and not talk back.Thanks for the help guys!

99 Speedster SK

 

[howie099]

I would say you are looking a fuel issue. You checked the enigne's heath and it was ok so I would be looking at the fuel system with that engine. I would say you are running lean since you keep having to use the choke to start a warm engine. Check the carb settings and rebuild them on that engine. You will be amazed what a little $40 carb kit does to the eninge. Also check the fuel pump to make sure its ok and the pulse line is ok.

A spark arestor that's so clean looks like you are running lean. The darker one looks normal after a few seasons of use..

 

[Jfrymania]

Thanks for the info, but not knowing much about engines and being mechanically challenged (SeadooLou can vouch for that) how do I change running lean. I looked through the manual but not sure how to check the carb settings.?.?

I did pull the pulse line (i think that was it) since it was the old grey line. I attached some photos for reference. The port engine line has green goo/gunk around the bottom, so I put on new black line and strapped them in. The starboard engine line was clean but replaced anyways.

How would I check the fuel pump? Anymore help in diagnosing is greatly apprecaited. Just expect questions back cause I am lost sometimes even after reading the manual.

 

[howie099]

The manual should do through all the settings. the carb settings are just counting the turns on the 2 screws.

 

[cenzo4dub]

honestly i just had a similar problem with my 98 speedster port engine. it was very hard to start especially after i ran it for about an hour and after a couple times out i coukdnt even get it started. it turned out to be a leaking needle valve/seat in the carb. an easy way to check if ur getting too much gas and causing flooding is to take out both spark plugs put the plug wires on the ground posts next to the cylinder head and have someone crank it while you watch the spark plug holes but dont get too close incase something shoots out (GAS). if you see gas shooting out while cranking then you are getting too much fuel. this is exactly what happened to me. very hard to start and i was also getting a rough idle. wound up rebuilding both carbs and changing both needle valve and seats and i took it out today and it ran perfect! turned out only one carb was leaking the fuel but i did everything to prevent future problems. but i would do that test first and see if anything comes out the plug holes good luck

 

[Jfrymania]

What do you guys think I should do first? Would it make sense to reset the carb to original settings then fire her up and see how it goes? Should I just order the rebuild kit for both engines? I have the 717's so it would only be two kits. I read another thread were someone had the same issue and it was the needle and seat.

What kind of rebuild kit should I get and do they come with the needle and seat? Can I just order the needle and seat itself?

Thanks for all the help!

 

[cenzo4dub]

first take the plugs out and crank it and see if fuel shoots out. if it does then i would rebuild them. needle and seat do not come with rebuild kit they go for about 15-20$ for each needle and seat and only get oem rebuild kits if you get them. honestly for around 140 and if you do it yourself its well worth it for the piece of mind. but if you do that test i mentioned and gas comes out take the carbs off and check the popoff pressure that will tell you alot about the carb. heres a good link to check out http://seadoosource.com/mikunitests.html
it will tell you everything you need to know about the carbs. one of my needle and seats wouldnt hold even 1 pound of pressure causing fuel to get past and flood out the carbs was causing my whole prob. it was suppossed to hold around 34 before it opened up (pop off)

 

[LouDoo]

From the looks of the picture in post 3, your're gonna have to bite the bullet and change the fuel lines, clean fuel/water separator filter, clean or replace fuel selector, clean carb. filters, possibly clean and rebuild the carbs. Here's a thread on the subject, I'm afraid anything else is just going to be temporary.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...el-Delivery-Problems-low-revs-bogging-surging

I would use a good quality cable tie instead of the clamps. Or bailing wire.

Lou

 

[Jfrymania]

That was the last of the fuel line, actually I thought it was just the pulse line. It runs from the fuel pump to bottom go the engine. The old grey line was changed years ago according to the PO. Not sure y they didn't change those one on each engine though.

I pulled the plugs out and turned the engine over like cenzo4dub said to do and nothing came out, so hoping that means the needle and seat are ok. I'm gonna pull the carb off Sunday to clean it. Or should I just do as the bottle says and spray it down the carb walls and throttle plate like the can says?

After I do that should I turn the screws back in and set to the manual for the carb settings? A few ppl said it looks like its running lean and read horror stories of this.

Lou, I'm a changed man now. I learned the other day when I ran out of duck tape while fixin the mower that super glue is just as good! Just remember not to scratch with it on your hands.....

Thanks for the help fellers!