plugs

[Albysure]

Ok....Im getting rid of my oil injection system. I know the pros and cons of haveing it and not. So what i wanna know is how long the plugs last on a premix. One full 40 gallon tank or 3 full tanks. i know idle kills them faster but how long would they last at idle...

Thanks guys

 

[griz400]

no real answer for that, dont know how strong your motor is, but, oil all through your fuel system, sorta creates problems sometimes, carbs get clogged, not really good for fuel lines, i, personally would just put new lines and a filter on it, bleed it and run 1 set of plugs, all summer long.... if your around tampa, ill help you

 

[Albysure]

thanks for the offer to help. Im in the panhandle, Destin. But i already replaced all you noted last year. The seals on both injections are leaking now. Instead of replacing seals i wanted them gone do to the fact there 14 years old. I just wanted to see how bad its gonna smoke if i do. I dont want to be idling and look like im on fire. Anyone have this same boat with the injection system gone.

Thanks.

 

[Albysure]

thanks for the offer to help. Im in the panhandle, Destin. But i already replaced all you noted last year. The seals on both injections are leaking now. Instead of replacing seals i wanted them gone do to the fact there 14 years old. I just wanted to see how bad its gonna smoke if i do. I dont want to be idling and look like im on fire. Anyone have this same boat with the injection system gone.

Thanks.

 

[Guest_User]

actually premixing has it`s benefits. It does keep the inside of the carbs cleaner, lubricates them internally, less corrosion, less shaft bind. the only way they "might" get clogged from premixing is if you keep changing brands of oil that don`t mix well. and that is a stretch at best...
I`ve been running premix in the Challenger 1800 for 21 hours now and no issues...

Plugs, I`ve been doing a lot of work on mine over the summer and have changed plugs often. If you run a quality oil and not off the shelf garbage and your engine is in very good health you could get 20-25+ hours easily. I would run 25-35 on my Yamaha GPR with no issues at all... both at 40:1 mix ratio.
I`m just not a firm believer in installing and removing the same plug several times. The sealing gaskets gets flattened on the first tightening. regardless of how much more life I could get out of it. Plugs are cheap...
I`ve pulled mine at several intervals and they always looked good. BUT plugs are cheap, by a bunch of them to have on hand.
You can run them as long as they do not foul, if the engine starts to miss, first thing you do is look at the plug and change it...
carry a few on the boat with the appropriate wrench...

smoke: it`s not to bad, but I also use good oil, Amsoil, Mystik, XPSII, Yamalube2W. when you see smoke, it`s a good thing! while underway you can not smell or see it. But if you Tow tubes or anything, oil brand and smell could be more pleasant with choosing the appropriate oil.

good luck!...

on the 787 engine, be sure to keep the oil lines for the RV shaft/bearings.

 

[Albysure]

thanks pale thats what i was looking for. Yea i plan on keeping a bunch of plugs on had pre=gapped. Ill keep useing the same oil. my main concern was looking like a boat on fire at idle.

Thnaks for the help guys

 

[Guest_User]

there are times when it smokes. running 40:1 at idle is quite a bit. the oil being heavier than fuel settles in the bottom of the cases. when you fire it up at the dock it could momentarily smoke, but clears out as the engines starts to run... I don`t have bad cranks seals in the RV cavity so I know it`s not ingesting oil that way...

keep your oil injection tank, remove and plug the oil pump feed line at the bottom of the tank. Cap/zip tie the hose nipples on the RV cover, install block off plates where the oil pump once was. done...
make sure you have premix in the fuel tank prior and run the engines to get the premix up to the carbs, then disconnect the injection system.

good luck!...

 

[Albysure]

Sounds good, I just ordered the kit. As far as the oil injection sensor can i just remove it and zip tie it up side down to read full so no light or should i cut the wires and tie them together. Im gonna keep some oil in the tank for the RV but not to much. the seal around the sensor also leaks there to.

Thanks for the info

 

[Guest_User]

Sounds good, I just ordered the kit. As far as the oil injection sensor can i just remove it and zip tie it up side down to read full so no light or should i cut the wires and tie them together. Im gonna keep some oil in the tank for the RV but not to much. the seal around the sensor also leaks there to.

Thanks for the info

I would leave the sensor in the tank, and fill it to cover the sensor. your return line from the RV bearings go into the top of the sensor.
, you should be fine, at best replace the rubber seal around the oil sensor. since you are in FL, try PPG or Riva for that...

 

[howie099]

If your RV seals leak you will loose oil and need to pinch the lines so you don't fill the engine with oil. Its just with 2 eninges you will burn way more oil than with one. I Pre-Mix my Yamy GP1200 but 13 gallons is lot easier than 40 when both use about the same gas in the same time. I use the same plugs the whole year in my Yamy. Seadoo's have the best oil injection. The other companies seem to have more issues. My Yamy doesn't smoke much on idle with Amsoil in it. My seadoo boat does some smoking since the return spring is a little weak on one engine, but a little extra oil doesn't hurt.

To each ther own but If I have to keep oil in a tank and check it all time becuase of the RV's I would just fix the system in the off season and Pre-Mix unitil it is over. Than fit it in the cold.

 

[Guest_User]

If your RV seals leak you will loose oil and need to pinch the lines so you don't fill the engine with oil. Its just with 2 eninges you will burn way more oil than with one. I Pre-Mix my Yamy GP1200 but 13 gallons is lot easier than 40 when both use about the same gas in the same time. I use the same plugs the whole year in my Yamy. Seadoo's have the best oil injection. The other companies seem to have more issues. My Yamy doesn't smoke much on idle with Amsoil in it. My seadoo boat does some smoking since the return spring is a little weak on one engine, but a little extra oil doesn't hurt.

To each ther own but If I have to keep oil in a tank and check it all time becuase of the RV's I would just fix the system in the off season and Pre-Mix unitil it is over. Than fit it in the cold.

I believe the yami and SD pumps are Mikuni. I rarely ever hear a pump failure, more usual is the spring or broken cable.
premixing quantity can be discussed forever...lol...
I just fill 5 gallon fuel jugs and add to the boat as necc, easy peasy...:lol:

I must have missed where the OP said he had leaking RV seals...

 

[howie099]

Both pumps are mikuni but the lines always seem to come off much easier on the yamaha's. I know a lot of people with that issue. It happend to my friend they fell off the ski (flipped it) and didn't see one the lines off becuase of that. On the 1200's it is hard to see all 3 lines from the pump. Lost a whole engine, blew the rod out of the case.

It sounding like RV seals since he says both pump seals are leaking. Never acually seen an oil injection pump leak oil in the areas it shouldn't. Could be wrong thought. Ususally when the spring breaks on the oil pumps it goes to wide open which is just like pre-mixing.

 

[Guest_User]

Both pumps are mikuni but the lines always seem to come off much easier on the yamaha's. I know a lot of people with that issue. It happend to my friend they fell off the ski (flipped it) and didn't see one the lines off becuase of that. On the 1200's it is hard to see all 3 lines from the pump. Lost a whole engine, blew the rod out of the case.

It sounding like RV seals since he says both pump seals are leaking. Never acually seen an oil injection pump leak oil in the areas it shouldn't. Could be wrong thought. Ususally when the spring breaks on the oil pumps it goes to wide open which is just like pre-mixing.

I had an oil injection pump leak at the shaft seal...
yes the pumps default to wide open.

the earlier yamis had different clips/clamps, the newer efi 1300`s had a wound stainless clip/clamp that never come off...
I miss my 1300, back when 73mph was an accomplishment and the bomb!...lol... now 100+ is the new speed... yikes...

 

[racerxxx]

I'll weigh in here.

I have been running pre-mix in my Speedster for 5 seasons now, going on the sixth. I run one set of plugs all season long and have NEVER fouled one yet. I winterize with those plugs then start up with them and after the fogging oil is cleared out, I put in a fresh set of gapped NGK's for the season. I do travel in areas with no wakes for 5-10 minutes at a clip. The MOST I have ever gotten was a bog as I pasted it coming out of a 10 minute no wake, ran it a 7K for a minute or so and the next no wake, no bog. I mix 40:1 with XPS-II, it's expensive as all get out. I figured if I was out of gas and with XPS-II and mid grade gas at $3.89 a gallon, a fill up will run me $213.00-not a typo! I get a tad bit of smoke on start up, and not enough to bother me at no wake speed, I'll put it this way, my wife hates the smell of gas and she never complains about it.

As far as mixing at the pump--cake work. I carry a gallon with me and a Seasense bottle. You fill up to an even amount the look at the bottle and fill it to that line. The most work you need is to divide into equal parts. So you would find the 40:1 column, then if say you got 20 gallons, I would break that down into 4 equal parts and fill to the 5 gallon line and do that 4 times. Each time I put an amount in the tank I take a dab of oil and put it on the boat--to keep track of where your at, then just wipe it off. I always fill up on land so by the time I get to the ramp I'm all shook up in the tank, but if your filling up at a marina, by the time you get moving you'll be good to go.

Leave the tank and sensor and fill it so the sensor works so IF your crank seals go or a line were to break you'll get a warning.

Don't forget to take the oil pump drive out of the cover. The cover needs to be removed to remove the drive. And don't forget to cap the injection nipples on the R/V cover.

Good luck!


Here's a link to the bottle: https://www.google.com/search?q=Sea...56,d.dmQ&fp=e1c7ac95cf77e9dc&biw=1024&bih=677

 

[Guest_User]

I'll weigh in here.

I have been running pre-mix in my Speedster for 5 seaons now, going on the sixth. I run one set of plugs all season long and have NEVER fouled one yet. I winterize with those plugs then start up with them and after the fogging oil is cleared out, I put in a fresh set of gapped NGK's for the season. I do travel in areas with no wakes for 5-10 minutes at a clip. The MOST I have ever gotten was a bog as I pasted it coming out of a 10 minute no wake, ran it a 7K for a minute or so and the next no wake, no bog. I mix 40:1 with XPS-II, it's expensive as all get out. I figured if I was out of gas and with XPS-II and mid grade gas at $3.89 a gallon, a fill up will run me $213.00-not a typo! I get a tad bit of smoke on start up, and not enough to bother me at no wake speed, I'll put it this way, my wife hates the smell of gas and she never complains about it.

As far as mixing at the pump--cake work. I carry a gallon with me and a Seasense bottle. You fill up to an even amount the look at the bottle and fill it to that line. The most work you need is to divide into equal parts. So you would find the 40:1 column, then if say you got 20 gallons, I would break that down into 4 equal parts and fill to the 5 gallon line and do that 4 times. Each time I put an amount in the tank I take a dab of oil and put it on the boat--to keep track of where your at, then just wipe it off. I always fill up on land so by the time I get to the ramp I'm all shook up in the tank, but if your filling up at a marina, by the time you get moving you'll be good to go.

Leave the tank and sensor and fill it so the sensor works so IF you crank seals go or a line were to break you'll get a warning.

Don't forget to take the oil pump drive out of the front cover. The cover needs to be removed to remove the drive. And don't forget to cap the injection nipples on the R/V cover.

Good luck!


Here's a link to the bottle: https://www.google.com/search?q=Sea...56,d.dmQ&fp=e1c7ac95cf77e9dc&biw=1024&bih=677

HOT Dam! that was an excellent response!

 

[sselzer]

no real answer for that, dont know how strong your motor is, but, oil all through your fuel system, sorta creates problems sometimes, carbs get clogged, not really good for fuel lines, i, personally would just put new lines and a filter on it, bleed it and run 1 set of plugs, all summer long.... if your around tampa, ill help you

Where in the Tampa area are you located? I'm am looking for someone to help me with my 97 GSX. Seab

 

[griz400]

brandon, but we go almost every weekend where you like to ride i believe, at dunedin causway, we go to caladesi island, -- whats wrong with gsx ???

 

[racerxxx]

HOT Dam! that was an excellent response!

Thanks man, I just like to keep it easy. I did edit a few things though. I though that his boat had a 787 in is but I think it has the 720. So the oil pump drive is in the R/V cover not the front cover. But regardless the drive gear should come out. I hate math so the bottle makes it goof proof.

 

[sselzer]

brandon, but we go almost every weekend where you like to ride i believe, at dunedin causway, we go to caladesi island, -- whats wrong with gsx ???

Need some help with installing engine, carbs and exhuast system, plus replacing some fuel lines. I ride at the same place too, but this project is been slow since its my first time taking on a rebuild. My engine is out getting painted with POR-20 paint, the guy that powder coated my others parts is sandblasting the engine and painting it with my paint for $40. Check out my project link http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?57027-My-FIRST-97-SEADOO-GSX-PROJECT&goto=newpost
Maybe I'll throw a rebuild party and throw some meat on the smoker and beer in the cooler. I live in Hernando co, right off of U.S. 19 Springhill. Sean

 

[Albysure]

Thanks for the replies. Ok, so when im doing this the 2 small oil lines on the oil injection system its self would just get capped at the end. And only 2 bolts this on? what else? Oil pump gear? I know about capping the main oil lines to system and leaving the others.

Thanks.

 

[sselzer]

Thanks for the replies. Ok, so when im doing this the 2 small oil lines on the oil injection system its self would just get capped at the end. And only 2 bolts this on? what else? Oil pump gear? I know about capping the main oil lines to system and leaving the others.

Thanks.

Use a oil injection block off kit, comes with everything you need it's around $15. You can order them anywhere.