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pink wires coming out of wire harness under MPEM 96 challenger - what are these?
- Thread starter trexbob
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Post a picture if you can. That would be helpful.
USAF_Pride
Member
I just fixed my fuel level sending unit yesterday. Quite easy to do and there are plenty of pictures around to do it. Here is what I recommend, but before doing that, make sure the gauge is good by shorting the wires that go to the gauge together and verify that it works!!
1. Pull the fuel pickup assembly out of the tank. Not required for testing, but if you want to fix it, you will need it out and it makes it easier to test. Just mark your fuel lines before you do. I used a sharpie on the assembly to mark poition 1 and then just used masking tape and numbers the hoses 1-4.
2. Pop off the bottom of the assembly with the screen on it, which should give you access to the float? Check to make sure the magnets are on it and that it floats. The float is fairly inexpensive and you can clean the screen at the same time.
3. Measure the resistance between the pink and pink/black wire. If it is open (no resistance, infinity), the fuse in the sendor is bad
3a. To fix the fuse, identify which side of the circuit board the float is on. You will cut open the opposite side.
3b. Make a horizontal cut about 3/8" below the "lip" of the sendor and another one about 1" further down. Then make a vertical cut on one side to connect your cuts.
3c. Swing the plastic piece open and you will see F1 in there (you may need someone to hold it open for you). Just take some solder and jumper F1.
3d. Put the float back in and test the resistance again. It should be somewhere between 0 and 88. Moving the float should change the resistence.
3e. To "glue" the piece back down, I just held it in position and ran the soldering iron tip down the cut groove. It sealed it back up and just has a slight indentation there. It doesn't need to be 100% sealed as the entire circuit board is exposed to the fuel from the bottom. I imagine you could just cut the whole piece out and leave it.
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Wow thanks for the write-up! I just soldered the connector back on, I honestly don't even know if it works... no gas in the tank, but the gauge is showing empty right now, so it looks like it might be ok? Will test it before I do anything else. Thanks again!
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Just a thought: You can short those two wires together using a 12v test light too, just in case you're not really sure where they went. In the case they go to something else then the test light might help avoid a harness fire or some kind of damage.
Everyone should own a test light, IMO.
USAF_Pride
Member
Sportster has a good point. Verify that those are in fact the correct wires going to the fuel float.
A bad sensor will show your gas gauge as empty. You can test the sensor by checking the resistance between the pink and pink/black wire as stated above. If it has resistance, then the sensor is probably good (baring a bad float). Otherwise you can put fuel in the tank, but I bet the wires were cut because either the sensor or gauge (or both) are not working.
So I dug into my fuel gauge and found the gauge is working, so I pulled the fuel sender out of the tank. I apparently have a different sender than most people. This thread shows what mine looks like: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?46778-Fuel-Gauge-Fix-Question
I'm going to troubleshoot it and hopefully fix it.
I'm going to troubleshoot it and hopefully fix it.
USAF_Pride
Member
Please post a picture of yours
OKay, so I went into the top of mine to see if I had the same problem as in the previous thread I posted above, and lo and behold... a fuse! Not like everyone elses, but there it is... and it was blown. Interestingly, you cannot see it from looking at the circuit board from where the float comes out, it's hidden behind a transistor of some sort.
From the back:
So I just soldered in a small piece of wire to bypass it:
Now it's working perfectly... 88 ohms with float at the bottom, 0.2 with float at the top.
From the back:
So I just soldered in a small piece of wire to bypass it:
Now it's working perfectly... 88 ohms with float at the bottom, 0.2 with float at the top.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
So I just soldered in a small piece of wire to bypass it:
Now it's working perfectly... 88 ohms with float at the bottom, 0.2 with float at the top.
So it seems your fuse was 250ma, that's 1/4 Amp. Excellent! It's nice to have some idea of how much fuel is in the tank!
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USAF_Pride
Member
You have a fuse, it is just higher up than where you cut. If you make a cut 1/4" below that lower lip, you will find it.
I cut where most of the other threads said to cut, and no fuse... my sending unit is apparently different than most of them out there... see this thread: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthrea...e-Fix-Question
Biffitis in that thread cut his open all the way to the lip and this is exactly what mine looks like...
In the previous set of pictures I posted, that is the very top of the circuit board...you can see where it ends if you look closely.
Biffitis in that thread cut his open all the way to the lip and this is exactly what mine looks like...
In the previous set of pictures I posted, that is the very top of the circuit board...you can see where it ends if you look closely.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I believe the fuse is shown in post #10, it says 250ma on it. it's black in color. On mine, it was a small chip fuse no larger than 1/8"x1/8" and was mounted on the conductive trace side of the circuit board, not the component side. The fuse was labeled "F1" on the PCB, next to the fuse.
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