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Parts for M2 Jet Drive?

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OrangeAnimal

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I need to figure out what it is going to take to replace the impeller, the wear ring, and some other pieces on my Challenger. I am sure I can do the work but where can I get the parts and how much will this deal set me back?? My impeller and wear ring are completely fubar'd. Amazingly the boat will still do about 43mph but it is eating gas like no tomorrow. Also revs alot to get it moving that speed. Anyway I am trying to find some stuff and debating fixing it cause I have already spent alot on this boat and still need more to get it right. So far I have replaced the powerhead (rebuilt) need to finish re covering the seating and now this! Not to mention the purchase price of the boat. Worth it or not? Is the parts for this engine and drive going to dry up anytime soon? Cause if I do fix it I am going to have to ride it for atleast 3 or 4 more years LOL.

So anyone with some info on this would be appreciated!
 
First up, refurb ($120) the M2 impeller rather than buying a new one ($400+). Impros (www.impros.com) refurbs the M2 impellers, does a spectacular job, and it's better than new when you get it back. They can repair almost any damage imaginable.

Next, what's wrong with the rest of the jetdrive? The wear ring costs in the $400 range, but you can often repair even major gouges yourself with JBWeld. Fill the gouges, let it cure, sand smooth with emery paper, and paint with Mercury's own enamel paint. I just did this and my wear ring looked new when I was done. Total cost: Under $20 for JBWeld and Mercury paint.

Moral of the story: You can definitely spend the money for new parts but it's often not necessary. If you post photos of what you've got we can probably give you more accurate advice.
 
I will take some pics of the damage. Also the housing right behind the wear ring section part number 31 in this diagram....

That's the stator. It de-swirls the water coming off the impeller (recovering some of the energy in the process) and also supports the back end of the impeller shaft (with a double-lip seal and two bushings that ride in gear lube).

Yours is the classic case of "something" passing through the jetdrive. Do you have a HydroSurge (movable) intake grate? Any chance one or more tines are missing? That's a common failure on that type of intake grate, and the damage you have is exactly what we see when someone ingests a tine. That's why almost everyone recommends getting rid of that nasty HydroSurge grate and installing a fixed grate instead.

Check your intake grate, and post some photos. We'll try to give additional advice.
 
Yup I have the Hydro surge grate. Yes it is missing one of the tines. I at first thought maybe the tine that came off went thru but it would seem like it would do more damage than whats there although it's pretty beat up and has been since I got the boat.

Hopefully it wil stop raining here soon so I can take some decent pics of the damage.
 
I'd strongly suspect you are the victim of the notorious HydroSurge grate. One of the worst design decisions ever made.

Waiting for the photos, then we can assess the damage and see if you can repair the wear ring and stator and avoid buying new ones.
 
Here are some pics. It looks nasty in there.

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Wow!

Whether or not you ingested a tine, a lot of that damage is external. I think someone beached that boat on sand. Perhaps several times. Look how the paint has been scraped away from the OUTSIDE surfaces of the jetdrive, ride plate, and even the intake grate. That wasn't caused by ingesting any one thing; it was caused by dragging the bottom of the boat over something other than water.

Then, consider the wear patterns within the jet tunnel. I suspect when it was pulled off the sandbar or beach, the water had tons of sand in it which basically sandblasted the jetdrive using the engine's own power. You have scratches and wear everywhere, even on the impeller shaft.

IMHO, you have a case of owner neglect. Someone badly mistreated that boat.

On the good side, I don't see any huge gouges. Granted the photos leave a lot unrevealed, and we can't see the front of the stator.

You need to tear that jetdrive apart and get the individual pieces in front of you for a complete visual inspection. I would remove the steering nozzle/thrust reverser assembly and stator. I would also remove and discard the HydroSurge grate and order a fixed tine replacement (I recommend the 11 tine stainless steel version). Finally, I would remove the impeller and wear ring. Instructions for doing these things can be found in the factory service manual which I'm told is available on this site.

Once you have these components in front of you, you'll be able to look them over and made informed decisions. I can tell you that the impeller will be back to better-than-new for ~$120. I suspect you can resurface the wear ring yourself for under $20. We won't know about the stator until you remove it. The external components, such as the ride plate, should also be cleaned up and painted with the same Mercury enamel that you'll use for the wear ring and possibly the stator.

Get out the tools and start taking it apart. Then take some more photos and post them. We're ready to help.
 
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Could you tell me where I can get the 11 tine fixed grate? Also how do you suggest I go about resurfacing the wear ring? I am not too keen on the JB Weld idea although it might work. I had thought about having the assm. bored and then having a a ring made to press into the housing.

The previous owner did beach the boat I am guessing he did it alot! I have never ran the boat in less than 3 feet of water. I would imagine after repairing this stuff I should have a much better steering and driving boat. I am particularly concerned with the amount of water this thing sprays back I can wash down a person on a tube. No one wants to ski behind it either although my brave wife wakeboards behind it all the time.
 
Could you tell me where I can get the 11 tine fixed grate?

Any Mercury dealer can order it, or you can order it yourself from any number of online sources. I often use this one (disclaimer: no association):

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_Pictures3.asp?dnbr=885191&ivar=images/SPORTJET/885191/2242.png&inbr=7596&bnbr=180&bdesc=JET+DRIVE+HOUSING+COMPONENTS

It's item number 34 in the illustration, part number 854810T1, ~$212.

Also how do you suggest I go about resurfacing the wear ring? I am not too keen on the JB Weld idea although it might work. I had thought about having the assm. bored and then having a a ring made to press into the housing.

Many people (including me) have used JBWeld with great success. There is at least one shop (I believe in Canada) that bores them and inserts a stainless wear ring, but I don't think that's necessary or even advisable. Get that wear ring out where you can see its entire surface and then we can make suggestions.

The previous owner did beach the boat I am guessing he did it alot! I have never ran the boat in less than 3 feet of water.

Un-flipping-believable. The previous owner should be shot. That is no way to treat ANY boat. I'm glad it is now in the hands of someone with a functioning brain. That previous owner was unqualified to own a boat. If he's a "friend" of yours, don't lend him tools or anything else that should be treated with respect.

Again, get it apart and post comprehensive photos of everything.
 
Yeah I don't think he really knew how to take care of the boat at all. I have actually done alot to clean it up. There was trash in the hull and all the drains that took me alot of time to clean out. I still have some more work to do obviously.

This boat has been a lesson in what to look for should I ever buy another.

I talked to the guys at impros.com and he said they could have it bored and insert a stainless steel ring but it's really expensive. 450 is what he said. I think thats about 300 too much LOL. They said 72 for the impeller 120 for the stator. That's fair to me.

I probably won't pull it apart for another couple weeks. Gotta finish working on my bro in laws jet ski engine. Then I have the in laws coming in this weekend. I will post more pics when it's apart.
 
Those are very fair prices from Impros for the impeller and stator.

I'd refurb the wear ring yourself. It will turn out better than you think.

Waiting to see the photos once you get it all apart!
 
Been there...done that...

....last spring. My impeller was way worse than yours. Cost me $250 at Skat-trak to rebuild it as it needed major rewelding, rebalancing, etc. The wear ring, I just dremeled off any rough edges, the same with the stator. The impeller is the key to performance and non-cavitation. In my case, the rebuilt impeller gave me stock or close to stock wear ring/impeller clearance and as soon as I put it all back together it ran like a champ. Top speed of 52(indicated) and no more slippage out of the hole. The stator and wear ring are still on the fugly side...but you'd never know it from driving the boat.

I replaced the broken grate with the same pivoting model, and the new one has slightly thicker tines....maybe they beefed it up...not sure. I get new parts from here:

http://www.marinepowerservice.com/ Tines-Inlet Grate 885588T

No affiliation, but they're good folks.

Mike
 
Thanks for the recommendations. I should be taking this thing apart in another couple weeks. I will post pictures of the parts.
 
Well here come the pics! I took the whole thing apart this morning. Hoping to get this stuff repaired soon. It looks a lot worse than the earlier pics showed. The stator has been previously repaired. The wear ring has lots of pits and gouges some pretty deep. I also doubt the impellor is anywhere near it's original diameter.

Also what socket do I need to use to remove it?? I am going to send it off to have it redone as well. I figure it would be best just to start with everything fresh for next spring.
 

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Wow that looks rough. That stator is a mess. I bet you notice a huge improvement next season.

This was previously posted by a super pro mercury guy, Rookie101.

"The nut is 1-13/16, but the problem is it is super deep. You will either have to buy two cheap sockets and cut and weld them together, or buy the mercury tool. Part number 91-850297."
 
I think I am going to try and find some sockets and cut them and then weld them together. That's going to be the cheapest route. Stupid Mercury tool is 60 bux at the cheapest place so far.


Well I can't really find a good deal on a socket that size so it looks like the Merc tool is the only answer. The cheapest sockets I found were 19 a piece. I would need 2 of them then weld them together not worth the trouble.
 
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Performance loss using fix grate vs hydro surge?

What type of performance loss can I expect using a fixed grate vs the hydro surge?
 
What type of performance loss can I expect using a fixed grate vs the hydro surge?

Little to none, depending upon which grate you choose. Here's a repost from some analysis I did several years ago.

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I took some measurements of the aluminum and stainless steel grates just to see what is really going on. Here are the results. Lengths are not considered because all comparable lengths are essentially equal.

The unobstructed intake opening is approximately 7.188 inches wide. The aluminum grate's tines taper from 0.384 to 0.310 inches wide, yielding an average width of 0.347. With six such tines, the total obstructed width is thus 2.08 inches, or 29% of the unobstructed width. The stainless steel grate's tines are 0.235 wide for most of their length, and with 11 such tines the total obstructed width is 2.59 inches, or 36% of the unobstructed width.

While I strongly prefer the stainless steel grate due to its better-profiled tines (less turbulence) and increased strength (vs. aluminum), there is no question that the aluminum grate permits more potential flow - approximately 24% more than the stainless steel grate. Whether the rest of the pump system can take advantage of that increase to yield more performance is unknown (to me).

24% is enough of a difference that, as a wintertime project, I'm considering removing six of the 11 tines on my stainless steel grate. Starting with the outermost tines and removing every other one would leave five equally spaced tines with a total obstructed width of 1.175 inches, or just over 16% of the unobstructed area. The spacing between the tines would only be slightly larger than the aluminum's spacing, but much stronger due to the use of stainless steel. Best of all, this would represent a potential water volume increase of 31% over the standard stainless grate and 18% over the aluminum grate. A 20-30% increase in potential volume is definitely worth exploring.

I've heard of at least one SportJet owner that removed the two outermost tines from his stainless steel grate. The resulting 9 tine grate would have an obstructed width of 2.12, almost identical to the aluminum grate's 2.08 while retaining the stainless steel's substantial strength advantage. Such a modification is pretty simple to do with common tools since access to the outermost tines is very straightforward, so this might represent a good best-case compromise for we garage tinkerers [grin].

Here's a table of the effective intake widths. Percentages indicate how much of the original unobstructed width is still open.

7.188 (100%): No grate
5.108 (71%): Aluminum
4.598 (64%): Standard Stainless 11
5.073 (71%): Modified Stainless 9
6.013 (84%): Proposed Stainless 5

The 71% stainless figure is easy to achieve. But that 84% figure at the end is pretty tempting....
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Later, I actually did create the "Stainless 5" grate. I've been running it for several years now:

roughbottom.jpg


It works, er, "grate"! {grin}
 
Is that the same grate for the 250 Opti as the 240?

When you installed the grate, was there a need for silicone caulk in the bolt holes at all? Or were those screwing into something not prone to leaking into the hull?

I'm coming from the waverunner world where we installed third-party grates quite often for better hook-up and eliminate porpoising. I have the hydro-surge still on my X-20 and feel the need to put in something fixed.

Thanks for the info and "grate right up"
 
Is that the same grate for the 250 Opti as the 240?

Yes, the engines are different but the jetdrive is the same.

When you installed the grate, was there a need for silicone caulk in the bolt holes at all? Or were those screwing into something not prone to leaking into the hull?

No sealant required, though I would recommend medium strength (blue) Loctite for vibration. The grate sits in, and the bolts screw into, the jetdrive housing itself. The hull is not part of this interface.

Hope this helps!
 
I remember seeing a video of this done before somewhere. I am a visual learner so seeing someone do this is very valuable. It was suggested to me that a wear ring and impeller replacement is needed on our boat after I had it winterized. Quoted $1600. I just about fell over.
 
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