We just bought a used 1997 GTX Sea doo....We took it to the lake yesterday and my brother was going to pull someone on the tube...he took off before the rope was all they way stretched out and the rope got caught in the side of the seadoo. It died. Got towed to shore. Some guy tried helping and told my husband to turn it upside down (in the water!) to cut out the rope...it was upside down in the water for about 30 min. the rope was in there good! Got turned back over, wouldn't start. Put it up on the trailer....wouldn't start. Water was gushing out! Changed battery, still wouldn't start. What problems could it be when the thing was completely upside down in the water? That was so dumb! We are new to owning a jetski, so we are very naieve, too. Can anyone give us suggestions as to what could have happend? Or is our jetski doomed?
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Ooopps!
- Thread starter Natanya
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Welcome to the seadoo forum Natanya. The problem isn't so much about the water in the exhaust, but the water that got in the engine. I would get it fired up as quickly as possible so as not to lead to rust and corrosion and possible engine seizure. Remove the spark plugs and leave the caps on the grounding post. Turn the engine over to remove the water from the cylinders. Spray a little wd-40 in the cylinders to help displace the water. Hit the starter for a few seconds at a time letting it cool down for a few minutes, while trying to get the water out. When it seems like all the water is out, insert the spark plugs and get it started. Use the choke or a little fuel and injector oil as a premix to help fire it up. Don't use starting fluid. If it doesn't fire up repeat the procedure. Pull the spark plugs, hit the starter, insert fresh spark plugs get it to fire up. Time is of the essence. The longer it takes to get it fired up the more chance of damage to the internal engine components.
Keep us posted on you progress.
Karl
Keep us posted on you progress.
Karl
Add a small amount of premix in the spark plug holes...say a oz or so, so it doesn't get flooded...after the water got expelled. Re-install clean, dry spark plugs, install the caps and get it fired up. This way it has lubrication and won't cause more problems.
You can hook up the hose to the seadoo and have them run for up to 5 minutes. Connect the hose and start the seadoo. Turn on the water after it is started. Turn off the water, than shut down the seadoo. This way it won't allow water to back flow into the engine through the exhaust due to no back pressure from the engine not running. The bearings and seals on the impeller jet pump are cooled from being in the water. When it is on the trailer it doesn't have that cooling effect so they will get hot after about 5 minutes.
The best thing to do after it is running is run it in the water to get all the water out of the engine. The temp. will evaporate all the water when it is running normally.
Karl
You can hook up the hose to the seadoo and have them run for up to 5 minutes. Connect the hose and start the seadoo. Turn on the water after it is started. Turn off the water, than shut down the seadoo. This way it won't allow water to back flow into the engine through the exhaust due to no back pressure from the engine not running. The bearings and seals on the impeller jet pump are cooled from being in the water. When it is on the trailer it doesn't have that cooling effect so they will get hot after about 5 minutes.
The best thing to do after it is running is run it in the water to get all the water out of the engine. The temp. will evaporate all the water when it is running normally.
Karl
I know what you mean...I have seen a lot of things happen in my 35 years of experience with water craft. Don't let is set any longer then necessary. Water inside an engine is not a good thing...I'll be on here later if you still need help...I'm going out jumping some waves with my speedster myself today.
Do you have a seadoo shop manual? If not here’s an idea for you. You could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and private use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too. Premium members get priority when it comes to getting quick detailed answers.
Karl
Do you have a seadoo shop manual? If not here’s an idea for you. You could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and private use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too. Premium members get priority when it comes to getting quick detailed answers.
Karl
You've already received some excellent advice on recovering the engine. And it is true that it is quite recoverable. I've filled up my engine on occassion and used the above techniques to get it going......and I have the original 1996 engine which is running fine.
Sorry to hear about the hassle with the rope. But that is just one of those things you have to watch out for. Those big 3 seaters require THINKING like you are driving a larger ski boat whenever you are towing.....keeping the rope tight or at least managing it actively. I know it is hard sometimes with all the other stuff going on (climbing back on tube, telling the spotter this/that, circling around and around).
Best two tips I can throw out there:
1. get a foam tube (like the slalom guys use to prevent snap-back)
2. have the spotter pull in the rope when a rider falls off (particularly if you know it will take a while to remount).
Sorry to hear about the hassle with the rope. But that is just one of those things you have to watch out for. Those big 3 seaters require THINKING like you are driving a larger ski boat whenever you are towing.....keeping the rope tight or at least managing it actively. I know it is hard sometimes with all the other stuff going on (climbing back on tube, telling the spotter this/that, circling around and around).
Best two tips I can throw out there:
1. get a foam tube (like the slalom guys use to prevent snap-back)
2. have the spotter pull in the rope when a rider falls off (particularly if you know it will take a while to remount).
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