only getting to 5500 rpm after carb rebuild???

[quick_68]

hey all,
Welp i got both ski's on the water this weekend.
The 98 GTX runs flawless!!! The XP is where i am having problems.

background:
I have replaced all fuel lines, carb filters and main filter.
I cleaned out selector switch.

It was running great the beginning of the day for an hour or 2 straight.
Then it started missing. I pulled the plugs and the front cyl. was brown and dry. The rear cyl. was wet with gas.

I decided to try and lean the rear carb with the low speed screw. i went a 1/4 turn in and ran it around, same problem. I did this a couple of times till it was 3/4 turns out and decided that anymore didnt seem right. So i turned it back to stock setting of 1 1/2 and same thing. I also went the other way to richen it up, same thing still.
I would assume the high speed screws are at 0 because i did not turn them when i took them apart, This ski has never had the carbs taken off until i removed them.

So my questions:
I rebuilt these carbs, do you think that they have clogged the carb filters already? or is it something else.

The ski will not go faster than 5500 rpm and not over 40 - 45 mph

Another thing i noticed that after an hour or 2 of riding there was the green crap from the old lines in the bottom of the main fuel filter. could this be from inside sending unit?

Thanks for the help as usual!! :cheers:

 

[kustomkarl]

If you found "Green Crap" in the main filter, than chances are you have a blockage from what got through the filter. I would clean the carbs. again and use fresh fuel to remove the chance of any more green crap getting in the filters again.

Karl

 

[Nate Surveyor]

OK, so you rebuilt the carbs, and changed the fuel lines.

But, you did NOT replace the gas.

This system has a RETURN FUEL LINE!

That means, that as you ride, the fuel is circulating through about 10' of that gray fuel hose, all day long. Leeching out the green goop, into the fuel. You now have a tank load of green goop gas!

Now, you change the fuel lines, and clean the filters. And go ride it, WITH THE OLD GAS.

And the filters are picking up the green goop, and now one carb has a sticking diaphragm, causing it to be too rich.

A complete re-cleaning of the carbs, with chemicals to get the green goop out, and cleaning the filters, and THIS TIME GET NEW GAS!

Don't fergit about the filter on the bottom of the fuel baffle, in the tank.

Have a nice day!

Nate

PS, looks like karl beat me to it!

 

[quick_68]

No No No... i drained the tank and replaced the fuel made sure of that! sorry i did not type that just figured that was a must and Karl assumed that i had not. . .
Good thought tho

"filter on the bottom of the fuel baffle, in the tank."?
There is another filter on the sending unit in the tank? ? ?

I know of the filters in the carbs and the main filter in the engine bay.
The goop was at the bottom of the fuel cup, not stuck on the new new fuel filter.
Thanks for the quick responses!

 

[quick_68]

any other guesses?
anyone!
Thanks!

 

[Nate Surveyor]

D'yup! there is a screen on the bottom of the fuel baffle.

Remove the fuel baffle, which contains the sending unit for the fuel gauge, and right on the bottom, is a fine mesh screen.

Nate

 

[quick_68]

Ok i need to clean the sending unit baffle screen . . . wish i would have known that before :banghead:

Obviously this is only part of the problem..

i thought the goop would restrict the amount of fuel the carbs see. I only see it getting more fuel then it needs if the goop got the needle and valve stuck..

what else in the carb could be?
just trying to understand everything
Thanks Nate!

Guess on the up side ill have the sending unit it to repair the fuel gauge fuse

 

[Nate Surveyor]

That would be my guess... the green goop monster is making a carb stick, allowing too much fuel, at times.

N

 

[timmyboy76]

or needle and seat assy not pop'n off at correct psi...

 

[quick_68]

"timmyboy76 or needle and seat assy not pop'n off at correct psi..."

The Ski was running great in the beginning... could the needle and seat just stop pop'n off and cause the ski to act like it has?

Also what is adjusted to adjust pop off with the needle and seat?
Needle and seat spring?

Thanks for the help so far guys!

 

[timmyboy76]

Hey stud...
DIg to help out more with settings and pop-off psi's, but dont know what year XP is.
Where the float arm spring is located, you wanna make sure the "arm: is flush with carb body/rugulator. This particular part of rebuilding, I found first hand, along w/numerous post, is crucial for proper performance. You'll find out if needle/seat are "pop'n" w/in psi accordanance, and also "leakdown", mak'n sure needle/seat assy isnt leak'n at 4lbs.
As long you didn't mess with factory float spring, should be within specs. But should be tested and arm inspected before all is reassembled...:cheers: