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One-Owner 2002 GTX DI

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PaulSki

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Hi - I've been lurking a bit and just decided to join the forum tonight.

I bought my ski new in 2002 and have had it ever since. It's got just over 100 hours, and runs/rides today just like it did back then. I knew nothing about these machines before buying one, and I don't believe I know much more even now. It hasn't given me much trouble, and I've been very happy with it.

Unfortunately, some of what I've seen here so far suggests that the DI's are bad news. I also got that from the dealer when I asked them to look at it last month. (I was getting 12V Low warning, and measured only 11.9 at idle. It needed a new Regulator/Rectifier... That was the first time it went the shop.)

It makes perfect sense to me that a complicated machine could be a big pain when mistreated, and I am well-aware of how some people "care" for their stuff. So, if I'm not one of "them", will I be OK or have I just been lucky so far?

I'd really like to keep this one a while longer (and ride more :blush: ), but this DI bashing has me wondering if I'm on borrowed time with it already. I've seen some posts about the fuel pump and oil filter, and I'm thinking about those, but I am NOT into rebuilding engines, compressors, etc... For this season, I guess I'll just play it by ear and see how things go.

Anyway, that's my story, and I'm sticking to it. :coolgleam:

Thoughts and opinions welcome. Thanks!

I'll try to figure out how to add some pics shortly.
 
DI ski are great but the reason they get a bad image here is because they are more complicated and expensive to fix when something does go wrong compared to the carb models.
Feed it fresh fuel and seadoo synthetic oil and chances it will be fine and reliable.
 
Ride it like you stole man and have fun. Take Care of it like you have been. Unless you buy new, like you did, you never know what you are buying. On a side note.... nothing wrong with selling and getting a new one that way you'll have years of reliability... hopefully.
 
You are doing great. I have 4 DI skis and love them. They are inexpensive to operate and inexpensive to maintain, as long as, when you have a problem it gets properly diagnosed before throwing parts at it attempting to solve the problem. That is what gets expensive.
At 100hrs I would pull the fuel pump and replace the internal fuel filters. While the pump is out I would take a peek in the tank and make sure it is clean.
I would also replace the external fuel filter canister. They are expensive, but it has lasted 15yrs. I personally cut the filter off the hose and replace with cheaper inline metal filter that can be changed on an annual basis.
While you are at it your oil filter has 100hrs on it and should be replaced.
Also I am sure you do this now, but keep fresh plugs in it and fog the cylinders after every ride.
If you do these few simple maintenance tasks, your ski should last at least another 100 hrs. Probably longer.

Internal fuel filter part numbers. Airtex FS220 and FS242. Can be purchased at local auto parts store.
External fuel filter part number if you decide to cut the canister out Wix 33095 with two heavy duty stainless hose clamps.
 
Well, that's a bit more positive. Thanks!

My Album is up with pics here: https://www.seadooforum.com/album.php?albumid=734

I totally understand the bad rap because of the complexity and difficulty of repairs. However,
it really ticked me off when the shop guy basically told me to junk it without even looking at it.
Yes, many people beat the snot out of their stuff, and even if 99 out of 100 they see are are
like that, I would still expect a bit more diplomacy. Overall, steering clear of used ones may
not be the worst advice if the odds of finding a good one are low.

In my own case, I certainly haven't sunk it in saltwater and then let it sit for 5 years. Actually,
it's never been within 30 miles of saltwater. But, I also haven't done much of anything else...
[MENTION=4182]Jesse[/MENTION] - I did change the plugs once, about 10 years ago, when it developed a miss at low
rpm just after startup. I don't know how to fog the cylinders, so that's never been done. I just
put gas and (Sea-Doo) oil in the tanks, replace the battey, and change the pump oil. That's it.

Does that upset the prospects of how much longer it might go?
 
Thanks for the positive replies. :thumbsup:

Pics are up in my album:
https://www.seadooforum.com/album.php?albumid=734

Went riding for a few hours today. She ran great, but I think I might need to do plugs again
due to a few pops here and there. I've done them once before, and now I'm at 110 hours.

@miki - I've only used Sea-Doo oil.

@et - I get the idea that I probably haven't been "taking care" of it the way you guys do.
I saw the 2017's at a demo day, and rode 2 of them. The 130 rode well but seemed less
than a match for mine. The 230 was faster, but also out of any price range I can consider.

[MENTION=4182]Jesse[/MENTION] - Fresh plugs, Yes, coming soon. Um, fog cylinders? I don't know what that is...
I just put gas and oil in the tanks, change the pump oil, battery and plugs when needed,
then flush with RV antifreeze before it snows. The regulator aside, that's about it.

So if I only use quality gas, and XPS oil, would the filters still get clogged?
 
New plugs installed. Here are the old ones:

800plugs.jpg

No difference in running or performance at all.
I've always gotten 51-52 MPH @ 6600-6700 RPM.
 
The thought with fogging the cylinders is to prevent any rust. For some reason the DI engine keeps a bit of moisture in teh cylinders and spraying them with a fogging oil after each ride will prevent that. You should do the same when you winterize them.

I will add that you might want to use [MENTION=20888]jhjesse[/MENTION] fuel pump cleaner. It is a 50/50 mixture of gas and tolune to clean the fuel pump. He has saved some OEM fuel pumps like that, and since they are close to a grand to replace on the OEM side, it is worth it.

I have an 02 I am rebuilding... My 03 has been rebuilt and I love it. I would love to get another one in a couple years so I have 3. I am thinking an RXDI for me and the kids can run the GTX-DIs.
 
Those plugs look good.
Fogging is where you spray fogging oil into the engine while it is running on the trailer.
There is a small port on your air box that accommodates the small tube from the fogging oil spray can.
Just start the ski and spray until it almost chokes out then stop the engine. This procedure coats the cylinders and crank with a light oil protecting them from rust and moisture.
You can get fogging oil at the dealer, but I personally get it from tractor supply because it is very close to me.
If I am going to let my skis sit for more than a week, I will fog the engines. I'm just a little anal when it comes to protecting my skis engines. Been stranded before.

The biggest thing I would do with your ski is at the end of the riding season when doing winterizing and jet pump oil change is pull the fuel pump and change the internal filters.
Pumps seem to die when they strain to pump fuel through clogged filters.
 
@jh - I'm glad to hear the plugs look OK. My expertise at reading them ends at NGK. :facepalm:

@tk - Thanks for the comment on my album pic. My ski never have water in it.

I will look into this cylinder treatment to prevent damage. However, it may already be there.
Before last year. my ski sat in the backyard for 8 years until I run it again.

Is there a way to tell if the fuel pump needs cleaning? If I try this, I may wind up breaking it.

Last time out, I rigged up a poor man's GoPro with my camera facing backward and took
some video. I did cover the mic, but most of it has too much wind noise anyway. I need to
figure out something for that. For now, I made the 30 sec clip below. It's a 640x480 MPEG-1
video file inside a ZIP archive. Watch out for the volume...
 

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