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Oil Residue On PTO Cylinder After Water in Engine

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EricSki8

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Hi, I am new to the forum and to Seadoo PWC's in general. I have a 1997 GSX 2-stroke. Rode it once this year, had good compression 145-150 psi on both cylinders. I recently made the mistake of getting water in the hull, which lead to water in the engine. I was able to get the water out of both cylinders from the advice on the forums. The lingering issue now is that I have a small oil residue that keeps getting pushed up when ever I engage the starter. I am not getting compression due to the oil in the PTO cylinder, some compression in the MAG cylinder. I understand that I must have a crank seal leak that is feeding a small amount of oil mainly to the PTO cylinder. I am continuing to work in intervals to turn the starter to work the oil out of the PTO cylinder. I decided to take the engine cover off and start wiping the cylinder walls to help clean out the remaining oil that is at the bottom. Is this a good strategy? I have been doing this for the past two days with allowing the starter to not overheat and recharging the batteries. Is there something else I should be doing to speed this process up? Or is this not going to work and probably not going to get the PWC out before the end of the season? I appreciate any help.
 
Update since last post on 08/14. Keep wiping the excess oil from cylinder walls running the starter for 5 seconds. I am able to get the MAG cylinder to crank with the spark plug finger tight in the MAG cylinder only. I can do the same with the PTO cylinder crank with the spark plug finger tight in the PTO cylinder. I cannot get them both to crank over with both spark plugs in finger tight. I know that I must have a compromised crankshaft seal, but I think I should have all the water out since the engine/hull was flooded late last month. I do not have a compression tester yet, but if they are both cranking separately, that seems to be progress, but I cannot seem to get both cylinder to crank at the same time with the plugs in. Anyone have the same issue as me? I am going to replace the crankshaft after the season is over. I want to get the PWC out on the water again this year. I have not made any significant progress over the past 2 days. Thanks in advance! I have a 1997 Seadoo GSX 2-stroke.
 
Another night of working on it: got 120 psi on the PTO side, 130 psi on the MAG side. Still not able to crank it with both sparks in yet. Cranks with only one or the other plug in, which is why I was able to get the compression readings. Any help or direction would be great!
 
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Hi Lloyd, with both plugs in, it does sometimes complete one revolution, but not consecutively or all the time, which I do not consider it fully cranking over. It acts as if it just does not have enough to get it to turn over with both plugs in. With one more plug in or performing the compression test, it will crank over properly with decent compression in both.
 
I only have limited experience but try this. Take both plugs out and turn it over by hand. If you can I would get your battery tested. If its a dud or dying it will charge but not have enough power to turn the engine over. Do your cylinders fill with oil or does it just seem wet? For testing purposes you could pinch the oil line to limit the oil leaking to your cylinders but if it does fire hit the stop button. You want oil in there when running.
 
So I guess a couple of questions first. Did you ever get the ski actually running after it got water in it? If not, then you may have other issues like rust on the crank bearings. Anyway, I would double check all of the starter connections. Sounds like it may not be getting full current to the starter. (maybe due to the water in the hull). Your starter may also be about to go out. If you can crank it without the plugs, and sometimes with the plugs in, then the starter normally would be able to crank it all the time. The battery test may be a good idea. I would try jumping it to a car battery (non-running car). If you really thing there is a bunch of oil in the bottom end, then you can roll the ski on its side towards the carbs and you may get the oil to run out through the carbs. You will have to make sure the rotary valve is not blocking off the inlet though. Since you have the head off, you may be able to put a small tube down the transfer ports to the bottom end and suck out any oil. I have not done it on one of these, but those ports are open to the bottom end.
 
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Update 08/25: thought to post a photo of the heads. It looks like a little lean on the PTO cylinder prior to the flooding. It has not been running since the hull/engine was flooded. I know that I will have to fix the crankshaft in the winter due to the seals. For the battery suggestion, under heavy load with both plugs in and cranking, the multimeter indicated 10.4-11.3 volts when the start button was held. There is a little oil that is on the cylinder walls after attempting to crank it over when I took the cover off.
 
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08/26: For now, I have pinched off the oil line to the crankcase. Replaced the solenoid. There is a little bit of oil near the rotary valves when I removed the carbs after I hit the start button.
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163.jpg

Update 08/25: thought to post a photo of the heads. It looks like a little lean on the PTO cylinder prior to the flooding. It has not been running since the hull/engine was flooded. I know that I will have to fix the crankshaft in the winter due to the seals. For the battery suggestion, under heavy load with both plugs in and cranking, the multimeter indicated 10.4-11.3 volts when the start button was held. There is a little oil that is on the cylinder walls after attempting to crank it over when I took the cover off.

Battery is suspect. I don't think it will crank or start with the voltage dropping that low.
 
Bad battery cables or connections.

Also you are using the wrong oil in that thing. Never use TCW rated oil in a seadoo. That might be the cause of your crank seal leaks. Some members have had the leak stop by flushing the oil system and running the correct oil.

That piston is super lean.
 
Bad battery cables or connections.

Also you are using the wrong oil in that thing. Never use TCW rated oil in a seadoo. That might be the cause of your crank seal leaks. Some members have had the leak stop by flushing the oil system and running the correct oil.

That piston is super lean.

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Got the ski to run today, ran it to ensure I got all moisture and remaining water out of exhaust system. Ran well for about 30-40 mins on the water. Shut off while out on the water. Seemed to appear to be a battery issue or so I thought. Now that I look into the PTO cylinder, it looks dark and not able to crank over at all. I think the PTO piston is seized now since there is a little debris inside the cylinder. I assume I have a seized piston and will need a new top end? Or do you think blown motor and need to go to SBT?
 
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How many hours on the ski.
Also you need to find the reason why it ran lean and seized.
My guess is dirty fuel system or carbs.
 
Have the carbs been rebuilt? Does the motor spin by hand with plugs out? Get an AGM Battery for it and never look back. +1 on dirty fuel system and carbs? Did the engine take on fresh or salt water? It almost looks like dried up saltwater ontop of the piston.
 
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