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Oil injection issue. Help!

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MurrayMassey

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The issue I am facing is that I am getting too much oil in the engine and it is fouling the plugs. Is there an adjustment for the oil injection rate? It won't start because of it. Thanks guys!
 
Yes there is an adjustment, but what I suspect is you either have a leaky seal or the oil pump cable has broken. When the cable breaks or comes loose as a safeguard the pump will go to full open. Check the cable first, it's a cheap and easy fix.

Lou
 
The cable is hooked up and intact. Where can I find the oil adjustment? For reference this boat was bought as a project from a pervious owner who played with things yet had VERY little mechanical ability. Thank you.
 
yes thank you. Any other tips to get an engine to run which is hard starting. I have fuel & spark. Perhaps I have been flooding it? Where do you guys set the throttle etc for starting? Thanks!
 
I'm having a bit of same problems. Boat starts instantly when it's nose up on trailer. If I drive it off the trailer so it's level and try to start again I have to crank it long time to get it to start? Could I have routed the fuel lines somehow differently than before and it might have created somekind of airpocket in some fuel line?
 
Unless you pickup tube is having issue the boat being up or down shouldn't matter in starting. 2-stokes can run almost in any position. Fuel pump works the same up or down and lines won't matter how you run them unless you have them pinched.
 
Well I got it to start, but it was VERY difficult. Even though I just had the carbs cleaned it stumbles badly. I suspect it is the over oiling. Any other suggestions?
 
Even dumping oil at the max 50:1 with pump it would start and run fine with new plugs in it. The engine would just smoke more at idle that is all. I run a yamaha GP1200 50:1 all year on 1 set of plugs with no issues pre-mixing with no staring issues. It still sound like you have fuel issue. You can verify the oil mixture with a mirror on the flex pole and adjust from there. It should of been real close unless the adjusters were messed with when to took of the carb assembly. Does your engine fill up with oil when it sits awhile? That is a sigh your RV seals are failing

Will it start faster if you dump a little pre-mix down the carb/carbs? With that it should start right up if everything is correct. You have an internal or external fuel pump? Was that serviced with the carbs? Also do you trust the person that serviced your carbs and did they replace or adjust anything with them? Also did you take a compression check of the engine also? A tired engine will not run right with low compression. Did you adjust the power valves on the engine also if you have a 787/800?

List some of the items you have checked to get some more sugestions.
 
The boat was serviced by my local dealer, when the carbs were done. The plugs have spark, but new ones wouldn't hurt. If I put a little premix in the carbs it fires it 2-3 sessions of cranking, letting the starter cool the cranking again until it fires up. What gets me is that if I try to rev it when running, he hesitates and sputters. Could it be the high or low speed screws? Also, they did replace some type of diaphragm in the carbs. Both cylinders compression checked and on spec according to dealer. Also, the engine does not fill with oil when left for extended periods. Lastly, I have the 787 but am unsure of what power valves are. (Rave?)

Thanks for the help!

- Spark is good (new plugs might help marginally.)
- Brand new battery fully charged (no issue there)
- carbs serviced so they aren't clogged or dirty.
- Seems to start MUCH easier when warm. Abnormally so
- New fuel throughout, fuel filter checked and cleaned

Not sure if this is relevant but the overheat sensor is bad and needs replacement, could that be a part of it?
 
Sounds like carb issues. I had mine "cleaned" then needed a rebuild. Then after rebuild needed the needles adjusted. These carbs are often problematic!
 
I have managed to trace down a few more things which have help some, for one thew battery cables needed a lot of help. So it now cranks faster which should help. Is the consensus that I need my carbs rebuilt? Thanks!
 
Sorry for the double post but I have another GOOD update. Turns out when it was in at the shop to get the carb done they put in new plugs. Anyway, today I went to put another set in because of fouling and found that they had forgotten to gap the plugs to O.E. spec. All things aside I gapped the new plugs and she fired right up! stumbling is GONE. The only thing stopping me from taking it out now is that there is no cooling water coming from the hole on the stern of the boat. When I had it running in my driveway off of the garden hose it spewed cooling water. Any ideas? Also does the hose port on the stern have to be plugged? Thanks!

EDIT: Cooling water issue fixed. There was a blockage in the exit hole for the water at the stern. yet ANOTHER new issue, I took it out for a little spin (FINALLY) then the cooling hose that comes from the pump itself popped off. I noticed a little spigot that came out with the hose. Is there anything that I should do specifically to fix this? Thanks! Also I am sorry for all of the newbie questions, just REALLY anxious to use this boat!
 
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I have not read all the posts, but my guess that the over oiling is caused by a leaky crankshaft seal. Do a search on this forum on leaking crankshaft rotary cavity seal. Lots of info on it. Basically get it running, burn off the oil and go have fun on the water.
 
What I thought was over oiling was actually incorrect plug gap. My next issue is to fit the spigot back into the cooling hole in the jet pump, it popped off on my first ride out, causing a fairly substantial leak.
 
It does but the threads appear to be damaged. The hose will only pop off with high RPM & a lot of pressure in the cooling system. It seems to function just fine until the higher pressure. Will it harm anything for me to place the spigot in the hole, the put some putty or epoxy around it? Or is it necessary to buy a new spigot? Thanks!
 
Wish I had the answer, my boat only has an o-ring between the pump and shoe. I actually prefer the design of yours. I believe the part is fairly inexpensive, but I can't see why you couldn't seal it in there like you have planned, so long as you don't block any passages. If pressure is building up to the point where you've blown out the threads, are you sure you don't have any blockages already?
 
No, the spigot was already damaged when I bought the boat, soo much owner neglect! The guy knew NOTHING about mechanical work at all. Regardless, when it was running water was flying out of the hole in the stern of the boat no problem, so i highly doubt a blockage, just careless re-assembly on his part.
 
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