Oil filling PTO Cylinder overnight

[jkur10a]

I've got an issue with my 1999 Challenger 1800. I bought the boat knowing that the crank seals on both motors were presumably bad (The price reflected that). However, I seem to be getting more oil than what I would expect and in a very short amount of time. Before I leave the lake, I pinch off the oil lines, both the RV line and the injection oil line. Still, after getting back from the lake and trying to start the motor the next day (lines still pinched, mind you) the Port motor will crank over fine a half dozen times or so (probably more) acting like it's going to start, then it will end up hydro-locking with oil. It's only the PTO cylinder and only the port motor. Both motors were hydro-locked with oil when I bought the boat, but the starboard motor hasn't taken on any oil since I purchased the boat a few weeks ago, including quite some time of it sitting without the lines being pinched.

Is there something I am missing, or is the crank seal just 'that' bad on my port motor and it needs a rebuild sooner than later? Maybe I'm missing a step or pinching the wrong oil lines? The boat has excellent compression and runs amazing on the water once I clear the oil out so that it will start. Any advice would be appreciated. There is a solid 1.5 months or more left of boating weather here in Ohio and I was hoping to make it through the season, but not sure I will be able to make it under these circumstances.

What do you all think?

 

[DeejaysGTI]

It is time my friend....

I had this same issue with the 96 GTX I bought. Phucker was on the lake when i water tested it, worked great! Ran like a champ. Did a compression test before we rode it and checked out good. Brought it home. Next day to fire it up on the hose... CLICK. Hydro-locked with oil. Tried pinching and doing all the same things above..... no good.

to www.seadooengineshop.com it went! since then, all good!

 

[Waterluvr]

At the very least your inner crank seals are gone and typically if they leak that bad your outers are as well. Last I looked they weren't making these engines anymore and at least one well known company practices production line rebuild hackery on them so having original motors that can be rebuilt to factory spec is kind of a big deal if no ones been into those yet.

Always ask your engine builder to what level of compression they intend to return the motors to and avoid the practice of welding cranks like the plague. Anything less than factory original specs of 150 + psi is second rate work if you expect the boat to perform as designed.

 

[jkur10a]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I kind of figured this was the case. It's a shame because they run so well on the water. Was hoping to stretch their life a little longer. These are definitely the original motors and not a single bolt has been disturbed on them. The motors look almost clean enough to eat off of.

I bought the boat from the original owner and this boat was a garage queen its whole life. It wasn't kept on the water overnight except for a handful of week-long family vacations according to the owner. The condition of the vinyl and gel coat speaks to that by themselves.

I would really like to rebuild the motors myself, but I just don't know if I have the expertise (or tools) to do so. I also would like to use new OEM cranks, rather than having the current ones rebuilt and welded. I feel the new OEM cranks would be well worth the money. I would be very disappointed to say the least if I paid someone to rebuild my motors and they came back with less than 150 PSI per cylinder.

 

[Waterluvr]

Oh thank god, someone not looking for the cheapest fix they can find to stuff in the bilge lol! Give Full Bore up in Alpena a call, they will do it right. I owned a full service marina for +30 years and that's the only shop standing I'll send my Rotax out to when it's time.

I'm actually looking for an original 787 with the counterbalance service port that's in good shape to send them over the winter for a build so I have a spare on hand. All the better shops are several weeks out or more this time of the boating season, hate to lose a motor and miss most of the short season in my neck of the woods.

 

[jkur10a]

Oh thank god, someone not looking for the cheapest fix they can find to stuff in the bilge lol! Give Full Bore up in Alpena a call, they will do it right. I owned a full service marina for +30 years and that's the only shop standing I'll send my Rotax out to when it's time.

I'm actually looking for an original 787 with the counterbalance service port that's in good shape to send them over the winter for a build so I have a spare on hand. All the better shops are several weeks out or more this time of the boating season, hate to lose a motor and miss most of the short season in my neck of the woods.

Do it once, do it right! No reason to go cheap on something like this, unless of course you like rebuilding motors every other year (which of course ends up costing you a lot more!).

I assume they would also rebuild 'my' motor(s) and not just send me some random motor on an exchange basis? I have heard nothing but good things about Full Bore, just never had the need to use their services before now. They are reasonably close as well, so worst case I could certainly just drive up there if shipping ends up being to costly. I will give them a call and see what I can work out. I still might try to take the boat out a few more times this year, unless of course you guys might advise against that for fear of doing more harm to the motor?

Thanks again for the advise so far!

 

[Waterluvr]

Definitely stop running it, those outer seals are probably leaking pretty bad to allow atmosphere in the case for it to fill that quickly through the inner seals so you have the potential to be severely leaning out your fuel mixture at that point.

You know the rest of the story on a 2 stroke when that happens...

FB will rebuild your motor, one of things I like best about them. I just noticed your in Toledo, I'm just across the Interstate in South Bend your right it's actually pretty close for you to make the drive.