What realistic top speed of 1800 sportster with twin 85? I finally got to take my boat to the water and got it to run! After swapping out both motors.... At wot it only running 35 mph just curious if that's normal? The thing is sluggish till it planes out.... I checked the wear ring clearance while it was took apart and they was very good condition and we'll within spec
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Normal speeds
- Thread starter miller347
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Ok so I know what the carbon seals are I had to remove due to hitting it when I was trying get sleeve back when pulling the motor. . But not sure What u mean by air leak to pump
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
The jet pump on these boats needs to be a sealed unit. If air gets into it... then you can't compress the water, and make pressure out the nozzle.
A very common place to introduce air into the pump is the carbon seal. The suction from the pump can actually pull it open, and once air comes in... you stop going. (or slow way down) This can happen if the carbon seal is warn, or the rubber boot is old. (it shrinks, and gets stiff, so it stops acting like a spring)
The other place air can get in, is around the pump itself. When you mount the pump to the hull, there is supposed to be a gasket on the hull. Without it... air can leak in.
A very common place to introduce air into the pump is the carbon seal. The suction from the pump can actually pull it open, and once air comes in... you stop going. (or slow way down) This can happen if the carbon seal is warn, or the rubber boot is old. (it shrinks, and gets stiff, so it stops acting like a spring)
The other place air can get in, is around the pump itself. When you mount the pump to the hull, there is supposed to be a gasket on the hull. Without it... air can leak in.
Mine has impellers slightly tweaked for acceleration as opposed to max speed, and I can get to 44 with both engines right at 7000RPM and about 400lbs worth of human weight on the boat.
The boat does 30 and more at 6000RPMs Wear ring condition is a factor for a few MPH BUT your issue sounds more severe.(In addition to all mentioned above by others with more experience than I have...) Have you confirmed the path out of your pump is clear of debris? and no foreign object is wrapped around your drive shaft? How pitted,chipped do the impellers look?
On Mine, I'm up in plane right away and I'm doing 30 in no time. when demanded with the throttle lever, the boat almost jumps out its wake instead of pushing thru it.
Sounds like you have already made the investment and you are almost there. Good Luck!
The boat does 30 and more at 6000RPMs Wear ring condition is a factor for a few MPH BUT your issue sounds more severe.(In addition to all mentioned above by others with more experience than I have...) Have you confirmed the path out of your pump is clear of debris? and no foreign object is wrapped around your drive shaft? How pitted,chipped do the impellers look?
On Mine, I'm up in plane right away and I'm doing 30 in no time. when demanded with the throttle lever, the boat almost jumps out its wake instead of pushing thru it.
Sounds like you have already made the investment and you are almost there. Good Luck!
Some shafts have multiple slots for the snap ring. See if you have more slots to tighten things up.
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Well yes it does but I thought they needed to be uniform....both of them was put in middle groove
Nope,,, always nice to get the loosest fit you can and still function, but it is perfectly fine for them not to be the same. Could be as simple as weak bellows, thinner Carbon Seal, thiner collar...
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Ok I will change that tomorrow..... Still gotta test solenoid aswell... Not a good day again.... Didn't get boat off trailer before motor wouldn't start then nuttin not power to starter at all
There is a trigger wire at the solenoid. Test to see if it gets voltage with the lanyard on and the start button pushed. Or, since this is a boat, whatever is the starting item (Key, button).
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Crank trigger wires are getting 10.77 volts saies my fluke
That's to low. That should read FULL battery voltage. What does the battery read at?
As an example, at 10.8 volts the MPEM quits working.
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As an example, at 10.8 volts the MPEM quits working.
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Battery is at 11.65 volts
Ok, and when you press START with the lanyard/key on, does it still read 11.65?
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11.63 volts
Start looking for bad positive and ground wires and connections?
Pacify me a bit. So when you press the start button what happens?
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Pacify me a bit. So when you press the start button what happens?
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U hear a faint click in epem and a very fast click in solenoid housing but nowhere near what the click should be..... If i bridge it with screw driver it spins the starter over
At the solenoid, one side should be hot, what is the voltage?
The other side will be zero until the START button is pushed. Does it go up or remain at zero when START button is pushed.
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The other side will be zero until the START button is pushed. Does it go up or remain at zero when START button is pushed.
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Same as battery.... 11.63
And the output side? When START pressed.
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You have a bad solenoid for sure. But I also believe that your voltage overall is a little low. Whether it's a battery or bad cable., for now a solenoid would solve the issue I believe.
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Not even 1 volt
I put a brand new battery in last month, when I had the motors out the cables seemed fine.... Not saying much now but u I did seem them lol
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