97 GTX, I rebuilt my carbs and now I couldn't get it to stay running. It ran for a while yesterday but as soon as I launched it today it wouldn't start. ran fine yesterday while I was attempting to tune the carbs and ran fairly smooth. I got a lot of oil out of the exhaust for a while then it cleared out. Now today no start. I need help getting it running again. I'm dying to get it in the water.
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No start after carb rebuild. I need some help
- Thread starter angel
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salmonkiller01
New Member
when you rebuilt the carbs did you do a pop off test and , leak down test on your needle and seat? If the pop off is too high hard starting and if the needle seat is leaking it will flood. More info needed on your carb rebuild.
no pop-off test. I know what you are saying though about the more info needed. I just dont know what else to tell you. I didnt do a pop-off test and I just read all about it. also the high speed screw was already missing the plastic cap I keep reading about. how can I adjust it so it works correctly now? I just did a compression test and they seem to be ok on both sides I got 145 psi plus or minus 2 psi
timmyboy76
New Member
LSA on both carbs should be 1, and HSA (ones with black caps) on mag carb is 0, and pto is 1/2
As long as you didnt bend the "tang" on the n/s and used the stock spring, the carbs should be ok, especially if you ran her yesterday, and all was good.
As long as you didnt bend the "tang" on the n/s and used the stock spring, the carbs should be ok, especially if you ran her yesterday, and all was good.
so the HSA on the PTO side is different? I used the longer spring that comes with the rebuild kit. Not sure if that is the one you are referring to. I used the same spring on both carbs. Does anyone know if a repair shop might be able to do the pop-off test for me?
timmyboy76
New Member
the springs in the kit are "gram" i'd'd. If you have the stock ones, i say put'm back in, but if the hsa broke off/seized, then needle aint budging anywhere, and from the sounds of it, you didnt mess with it, when you rebuilt them, so, I dont think they got moved...?
salmonkiller01
New Member
:agree:it is a pain
Been there done that, you should also do a leak down test of the carb to ensure that the needle and seat are not leaking. (new is not always perfect)I personally tried doing the shortcuts but they never paid off. You can build a pop off tester for 25 buck, somewhere on this site you will find instruction but also do the leak down test.Then you know its right and will run better. For the broken screw try some penetrating oil and hopefully you can get some pliers on it.
Been there done that, you should also do a leak down test of the carb to ensure that the needle and seat are not leaking. (new is not always perfect)I personally tried doing the shortcuts but they never paid off. You can build a pop off tester for 25 buck, somewhere on this site you will find instruction but also do the leak down test.Then you know its right and will run better. For the broken screw try some penetrating oil and hopefully you can get some pliers on it.
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I tried some needle nose but its not budging. I think I will need a carb cause the screw is too chewed up. The spring underneath it is missing also
timmyboy76
New Member
did you use "original" mikuni carb kit, or gasket technology?
I believe it was the Mikuni carb kit. Whatever it is SBT sells.
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