Took my '96 Challenger out today for it's first run and was dissapointed. Took forever to plane out over thirty seconds with one passenger and alot longer with three passengers. The low end power was terrible but once going it ran fine. I don't know how the rpm's were or speed since both gauges were not working. It sounded as though the engine was running very strong just that the boat wouldn't get going from a start. Also that new regulator valve on the muffler was leaking terribly. Getting very frustrated. Any help?
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No low end power
- Thread starter dcourt
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robin savell lloyd
Active Member
sounds like you have cavitation problem or carb problems rebuild carbs if not cavitating fix new regulator valve allso
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The Water regulator valve sounds like the problem. Is it the exact replacement of the old one? This can be the cause of the problems. Here is a description of it's operation and the procedure to adjust it. The water flow regulator has been calibrated at the factory and should not be tampered with or modified in any way.
CAUTION: Strictly adhere to the calibration procedure or otherwise serious engine damage will occur.
If engine does not maintain RPM or the engine is experiencing poor performance, the water flow regulator valve might be out of adjustment. The normal adjustment as done at the factory is as follows: On the top of the water flow regulator valve locate the red plastic adjustment screw. Mark the location of the screw with a dab of paint for reference. Turn the screw clockwise (tighten) until the top edge of the screw is flush with the top of the black cap. Turn the screw 2 clicks counterclockwise (loosen). This is the factory spring setting.
Karl
CAUTION: Strictly adhere to the calibration procedure or otherwise serious engine damage will occur.
If engine does not maintain RPM or the engine is experiencing poor performance, the water flow regulator valve might be out of adjustment. The normal adjustment as done at the factory is as follows: On the top of the water flow regulator valve locate the red plastic adjustment screw. Mark the location of the screw with a dab of paint for reference. Turn the screw clockwise (tighten) until the top edge of the screw is flush with the top of the black cap. Turn the screw 2 clicks counterclockwise (loosen). This is the factory spring setting.
Karl
low end power
The regulator I put on was from the 130 hp motor which I believe is a 951cc. Mine is the 787 cc motor but the valve was the same size and fit. It does the same thing the other one did is that water pours out from the hole on the bottom of the black cap. Manual states low end power could be result of bad pump, grate or driveshaft seal.
The regulator I put on was from the 130 hp motor which I believe is a 951cc. Mine is the 787 cc motor but the valve was the same size and fit. It does the same thing the other one did is that water pours out from the hole on the bottom of the black cap. Manual states low end power could be result of bad pump, grate or driveshaft seal.
Fitting....
That fitting on your water regulator is calibrated to 3.0mm, and yes, it does cross reference with a 951 DI motor.
I think you may be experiencing a sticky RAVE. Have you cheked/cleaned your rave valves. The 717cc engine doesn't have them but I'm pretty sure you have the 787...........check your RAVE's....:cheers:
That fitting on your water regulator is calibrated to 3.0mm, and yes, it does cross reference with a 951 DI motor.
I think you may be experiencing a sticky RAVE. Have you cheked/cleaned your rave valves. The 717cc engine doesn't have them but I'm pretty sure you have the 787...........check your RAVE's....:cheers:
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
If inlet needle is flooding it can have slow take off as engine rpms increase then engine will be able to burn fuel and then it will take off very good. a hesatation is normaly lean and a bog is nomaly rich like a poor seating inlet needle. good luck :cheers:
low end power
I just replaced the rave valves with new ones as the old were broken, took head off and no piston damage. 150 psi each cylinder. I'm still thinking pump or driveshaft seal as it seems the engine peforms great and revs great without hesitation just boat doesn't want to take off. Still can't figure out why two regulator valves leak like they do, the brass fitting is not obstructed as I have checked it. Could that valve affect perfprmance that much?
I just replaced the rave valves with new ones as the old were broken, took head off and no piston damage. 150 psi each cylinder. I'm still thinking pump or driveshaft seal as it seems the engine peforms great and revs great without hesitation just boat doesn't want to take off. Still can't figure out why two regulator valves leak like they do, the brass fitting is not obstructed as I have checked it. Could that valve affect perfprmance that much?
The manual states that the water regulator valve could be causing poor performance and shouldn't be ruled out as not the cause. It seems that your water regulator valve isn't working properly with a leak in it. I'm not sure why 2 of them have the same leak....that is real strange. It isn't leaking from the threads of the resonator is it?
Karl
Karl
Please keep us posted...If I find anything out I re-post also.
Karl
Karl
In the manual it doesn't explain on how far to install the tapered screw in the bottom. I have another member that took his apart and didn't check the adjustment turns and is stumped also. I gater you didn't check the adjustment either. Here is the only reference to adjustment I have on the water regulator valve;
Water Flow Regulator Valve
The water flow regulator has been calibrated at the factory and should not be tampered with or modified in any way.
CAUTION: Strictly adhere to the calibration procedure or otherwise serious engine damage will occur.
If engine does not maintain RPM or the engine is experiencing poor performance, the water flow regulator valve might be out of adjustment. The normal adjustment as done at the factory is as follows: On the top of the water flow regulator valve locate the red plastic adjustment screw. Mark the location of the screw with a dab of paint for reference. Turn the screw clockwise (tighten) until the top edge of the screw is flush with the top of the black cap. Turn the screw 2 clicks counterclockwise (loosen). This is the factory spring setting.
If I figure out the tapered screw adjustment on the bottom or if I find out anything I will let you know.
Karl
Water Flow Regulator Valve
The water flow regulator has been calibrated at the factory and should not be tampered with or modified in any way.
CAUTION: Strictly adhere to the calibration procedure or otherwise serious engine damage will occur.
If engine does not maintain RPM or the engine is experiencing poor performance, the water flow regulator valve might be out of adjustment. The normal adjustment as done at the factory is as follows: On the top of the water flow regulator valve locate the red plastic adjustment screw. Mark the location of the screw with a dab of paint for reference. Turn the screw clockwise (tighten) until the top edge of the screw is flush with the top of the black cap. Turn the screw 2 clicks counterclockwise (loosen). This is the factory spring setting.
If I figure out the tapered screw adjustment on the bottom or if I find out anything I will let you know.
Karl
Water regulator....
Yes, you can remove the tapered needle valve by turning it counter-clockwise. You would only need to do this if your going to replace the diaphragm in the regulator, which from your description, that what you need to do.
The little hole the water is coming through is there for just that. To tell you that the diaphragm is bad.
After making your repairs, tighten the needle snug. There are no adjustments on that end of the regulator. Just on the spring.
Yes, you can remove the tapered needle valve by turning it counter-clockwise. You would only need to do this if your going to replace the diaphragm in the regulator, which from your description, that what you need to do.
The little hole the water is coming through is there for just that. To tell you that the diaphragm is bad.
After making your repairs, tighten the needle snug. There are no adjustments on that end of the regulator. Just on the spring.
Thanks skatman! I have been reading manual after manual and couldn't find any information as to the adjustment of the tapered needle screw on the bottom. It wasn't even indicated to tighten it down even...Thanks again. I thought I was going to have to pull my water regulator valve off my challenger to find the answer after checking threads...
Karl
Karl
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