newbie: rebuild or SBT replacement?

[tut]

Hi Folks
I am a new member who bought a 50 hour 2005 GTX 4 tec for my kids last year; one of them (she) flipped it twice, pretended it didnt happen... you know the story, resulted in a bent rod and the rest.

My question is should I just go get a new shortblock from SBT or should I get in there myself and do re-do the one tube with rod, piston, rings, shell etc. This would involve stripping the whole motor and micing the crank etc. which would then lead to honing the block etc. and a consideration of whether or not I should ring and shell the other 2 tubes, and what if I find a bent crank (is this likely)? Once in there, cant be a half-miler right? Seems to me I could do that for around $1300 in parts (1 tube) with machining etc., no bent crank. The new shortblock etc. should be about $2800 cdn, all in, labour out.

How is the experience with SBT products and is there anything fishy about these motors a guy cannot deal with. I was a racer when I was a young buck and know my way around a toolbox but I am not, obviously, a trained seadoo mechanic. Help! Decision time...... thanks in advance boys, 'fish out of water'

 

[sporsterjoel]

Hi Folks
I am a new member who bought a 50 hour 2005 GTX 4 tec for my kids last year; one of them (she) flipped it twice, pretended it didnt happen... you know the story, resulted in a bent rod and the rest.

My question is should I just go get a new shortblock from SBT or should I get in there myself and do re-do the one tube with rod, piston, rings, shell etc. This would involve stripping the whole motor and micing the crank etc. which would then lead to honing the block etc. and a consideration of whether or not I should ring and shell the other 2 tubes, and what if I find a bent crank (is this likely)? Once in there, cant be a half-miler right? Seems to me I could do that for around $1300 in parts (1 tube) with machining etc., no bent crank. The new shortblock etc. should be about $2800 cdn, all in, labour out.

How is the experience with SBT products and is there anything fishy about these motors a guy cannot deal with. I was a racer when I was a young buck and know my way around a toolbox but I am not, obviously, a trained seadoo mechanic. Help! Decision time...... thanks in advance boys, 'fish out of water'

Im am not a fan of sbt 4tec motors this always stirs up the forums. What motor do you have 155hp or 215hp? Id say get a manual and strip it down and see what all needs to be replaced. If you were a racer and know your way around a tool box youll have no problems at all working on these 4tecs. I just put together a 215hp motor and there very simple. Pull the head to start with (you can leave the motor in the ski to pull the head.)

 

[tut]

Thanks, sporsterjoel. Its a 155 hp.

Im inclined the same as you but wondered if the hydraulic is prone to bending other bits like the crank and valves etc., along with the rod. Also, while Im in there if it would be a routine procedure to do the other holes along with the damaged one or leave them alone given h2o inside. I guess an inspection would be telling.

The shop diagnosed it. All I knew from the bratty kids was "gee dad, seems to be running rough, correction, not at all". duh.....

Where does a guy get a manual? tut

 

[sporsterjoel]

Tut if you get it apart and find the whole motor needs to be replaced then your best bet would be to buy a used low hr motor then going with an sbt motor and ill tell you why.

1. there not build to factory specs & you have to give them your motor for a
core
2.. if you buy a used one itll be cheaper AND you can sell what ever good part you have left over. Good complete head cam vales ect sell for $700-$800 just the head about $500 also the used motor will come with most everything like pto exhaust intake ect ect ect witch you could also sell as well. part are very high demand for these ski so dont be to quick to throw the stuff away.

 

[tut]

righteeo.
Between the lines your point is either way you get a better motor in the end as the other one will not stand up due to sloppy specs? I have heard good and bud luck stories on this topic with the replacements. Something about sub-standard pistons one guy said. Boiled after 30 hrs..... Ironically, the very reason I thought about a store-bought unit is for a closer-to-factory unit than I could get it. They are not cheap.
I need to get it apart.
I could get a manual somehwhere on this site I guess?

Thanks for your input.

 

[sporsterjoel]

righteeo.
Between the lines your point is either way you get a better motor in the end as the other one will not stand up due to sloppy specs? I have heard good and bud luck stories on this topic with the replacements. Something about sub-standard pistons one guy said. Boiled after 30 hrs..... Ironically, the very reason I thought about a store-bought unit is for a closer-to-factory unit than I could get it. They are not cheap.
I need to get it apart.
I could get a manual somehwhere on this site I guess?

Thanks for your input.

If you go used you can sell the left over part to fund the repair so its the cheapest way to go pluse you get an oem motor. If your a premium member you can get the manuals. But if you need any help or question about taking it apart let me know.

 

[pincusa]

I was in a similar situation in Oct. I ended up going with the SBT engine. I only have a handful of hours on it, but so far so good. Sure, it's not like doing it yourself and knowing that it's done right, but having it done for under $1K was nice. As you already said, the parts along will be more than the SBT unit.
There's nothing complicated about these engines. Buy the manual, measure everything, and it will go back together fine.

 

[kustomkarl]

The rebuilt engine is a cheap alternative to rebuilding it yourself. There are a lot of members that have gone that route.

Karl

 

[tut]

Thank you boys for your input, it has been very helpful and I think I should be able to make an informed decision on what to do as soon as I crack that puppy open.

One last question, what is the likelihood of the crank being comprimised in a hydraulic situation. That will be the final determinant of whether or not I do this myself. From a physics standpoint, seems to me it should be ok, but I wonder what others' experience has been?

thanks again in advance boys.....

 

[Chester]

The crank won't be bent. Is there any damage to the affected cylinder? If not, you should be able to get away with just a new rod, piston and a hone. If I were you, I would also hone the other cylinders and replace those rings too.
If you ever need my services, I do mobile PWC repairs and I frequently do work on the Island. Although, I charge more per hour than the dealers do.

Chester