Newbie here... need some help

[curd28]

I have been a long time snowmobile fanatic and decided to purchase a couple wave runners this spring to help "tide me over" until snow returns. I don't know much about these. I purchased a 1997 Sea Doo GTi and a 1997 Sea Doo GSi.

Do I need to remove the carbs and clean them before running them this summer?

I have read about the pump oil needing to be changed, is this something I should do prior to running them too? (Don't know if it's ever been done). How difficult is it? What oil do you recommend running in there?

What other things do I need to do before I set them in the water?

The GSi has a non-working fuel gauge and I was reading the post on repairing the sending unit by removing and soldering the F1 fuse, so i'm gonna look into that.

Also, the GSi has a pretty large gouge out of the gel coat in the hull, you can see the fiberglass underneath. Will this cause any problems? Do I need to patch it or will it be ok to run like that? The previous owner said it doesn't take on any water.

One last question... what oil do you guys recommend running in these? Should I run Sea Doo oil or do you run any aftermarket oils like Klotz/Amsoil?

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[custompartsguy]

I have been a long time snowmobile fanatic and decided to purchase a couple wave runners this spring to help "tide me over" until snow returns. I don't know much about these. I purchased a 1997 Sea Doo GTi and a 1997 Sea Doo GSi.

Do I need to remove the carbs and clean them before running them this summer?

I have read about the pump oil needing to be changed, is this something I should do prior to running them too? (Don't know if it's ever been done). How difficult is it? What oil do you recommend running in there?

What other things do I need to do before I set them in the water?

The GSi has a non-working fuel gauge and I was reading the post on repairing the sending unit by removing and soldering the F1 fuse, so i'm gonna look into that.

Also, the GSi has a pretty large gouge out of the gel coat in the hull, you can see the fiberglass underneath. Will this cause any problems? Do I need to patch it or will it be ok to run like that? The previous owner said it doesn't take on any water.

One last question... what oil do you guys recommend running in these? Should I run Sea Doo oil or do you run any aftermarket oils like Klotz/Amsoil?

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

1st...your pump oil..easy to do and takes the guess work out of it, someone correct me if wrong as I do not know most of these skis, just general......pull your pump cone off and let all the oil drain out, check the plunger in it, put back together and fill it back up with seadoo synthetic pump oil only, take a few come back fill again then repeat untill no more filling is required....you are purging the air from the housing...

ok 2nd....I recommend running only the seadoo required oil as your ski states or as per your manual...but that is your decision.

3rd...if the gelcoat has such a bad gouge in it that you can see bare fiberglass....then yes you need to fix it...other wise the glass will get water logged and bubble up underneath the glass...easier to fix now......depending how deep will address how to fix it correctly...

4th....just look the ski's over very well, check all your connections for any corrosion and fix any bad connections you find...check that main ground at your starter/block clean it well....look over your carbs will not hurt to have them cleaned and rebuilt maybe to save a headche down the road...... gerneral service will go along way take care of them and they will treat you good, put in some spark plugs and fuel filters if not down yet......check your motor mounts and wear rings....other then that go have some fun.....and take your snowmobiles to the drag strip.....

 

[kustomkarl]

Here is some detailed information on the mechanical aspect of your questions;

The pump oil change

If you look into the nozzle in the rear of the ski you will see a cone with 3 screws and an oil filler allen screw.

To change it,
1) Take off 4 13 MM bolts holding nozzle and 10 MM bolt holding steering.

2) Get something to catch the old oil in, drain pan or margarine cup etc.... (don’t forget the nose plugs, the oil stinks to high heaven)

3) Remove the 3 8 mm bolts holding the cone on.

4) Pull the cone and drain the oil out. Prop the front of the trailer up as high as you can to get most of it out.

5) Inspect the rubber “o” ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.

6) Lower the front of the ski and add oil** to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.

7) Wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. Let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.

**NOTE: Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil, or similar same wt.

Recommended oil and fuel use.

Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reaction will cause severe engine damage. Never mix Mineral or synthetics oil together.

Never use fuel containing more than 10 % alcohol,( Methanol or Ethanol) as severe damage will occur. The minimum of 87 octane is recommended for most engines.

Spark Plugs All 2 strokes NGK BR8ES Gap/ 0.5-0.6mm or .020-.024in.


Clean carbs gray lines

It sounds like you need to remove the carburetors and clean them. If you're careful and don't tear or damage the diaphragms you won't need to buy a rebuild kit. Pay attention to the internal filters too. If you have gray fuel lines you need to replace them with black fuel lines available from auto parts stores like Auto Zone. Measure the length you need and bring a sample with you so you get the correct size. Replace one at a time so you don’t get them mixed up. If you need clamps replace them too. Use small stainless steel clamps also from the auto parts store.

The High Speed screw is set to "0". These have a plastic cap on them to keep them from being turned any more than 1/4 turn. The Low Speed screw is set to 1 1/2 turns. The screw has a pin through it. If you need to adjust the idle speed do NOT use the low speed screws to adjust it. Use the IDLE Screw to adjust both carbs at the same time. When adjusting the carbs be sure both carbs are in sync.
I hope this info helps you out.

This should keep you busy for a while. You might want to become a "Premium Member" Do you have a seadoo shop manual? If not here’s an idea for you. You could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and private use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too. Premium members get priority when it comes to getting quick detailed answers.


Karl

 

[curd28]

Wow! Thanks for the info! That helps a lot. Sounds like I've got some serious work to do before I hit the water. We've got a little while here before the water gets warm enough to go out anyway. I'll get to work on them and let you know if I need anymore assistance. Thanks again!

 

[kustomkarl]

We also have any parts, you might need from our sister company. Click on the "parts "link at the top or in my avatar.

Karl