I recently bought a 1995 Seadoo Speedster that needed a little work and just about am wraped up but ran into one problem. The left side engine's RPM guage doesn't work and in the water it will idle flawlessly forever but when you give it some gas it dies out. I did swap the engine harness to the right side engine and the guage if functional. My question is if the stator isn't sending any signal would this cause the problem. Also I did run a compression test and it was right at 150psi on each cylinder. Any help would be great.
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New to Seadoo with Speedster Prob
- Thread starter Oct7brian
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timmyboy76
New Member
did you go thru the carb/s?, I'd start there along w/ checking fuel lines/filters.
timmyboy76
New Member
Yep....hold on, gonna check something.
timmyboy76
New Member
my idea may be incorrect, but won't take much to do...the rectifier that controls the problem motor, disconnect the 2 yellow wires, then give ur a try...
timmyboy76
New Member
Damn....that cover should has 10/12 bolts hold'n place
disconnect by cutting them before the harness connection? There is not way to get to the wiring the the stator w/o pulling the motor to remove the flywheel.
The cover had all the bolts but the silicone that was used didn't seal anything because as soon as the bolts were loosened up the cover was looks not sealed together at all like it should have been. I think they were cheap and didn't even use RTV gasket maker and just used some sort of household silicone because it was this wierd orange color and the other engine (good running one) is all sealed with black RTV like I use when I build an engine.
timmyboy76
New Member
Don't cut anything, Where the MPEM board is, inside the engine compartment, open up, and you'll see a (2)1in. square box, w/ 2 yellows and 1 red wire com'n from each, thats the rectifiers, find the one that goes to the bad motor, and disconnect those 2 yellow wires from it...just a thought.
You do this method also, diagnosing a bad MPEM board a well.
You do this method also, diagnosing a bad MPEM board a well.
timmyboy76
New Member
There aint no stupid ?, stud....its the brain of the boat...
Goin back to the thread, beginning to think, it's not a stator issue, you say it idles flawlessly...its not pop'n 5amp fuse, doesn't sound like ur batt. is dying,...but, you give it gas, and it falls off/dies....somewhat stumpt know, since you said, that you've gone thru the carbs.
But, on the hunch, could be the igniting coil on the stator thats bad??
Sure more people tomorrow, will shed more light...but, try rectifier thing, see what happens....:cheers:
Goin back to the thread, beginning to think, it's not a stator issue, you say it idles flawlessly...its not pop'n 5amp fuse, doesn't sound like ur batt. is dying,...but, you give it gas, and it falls off/dies....somewhat stumpt know, since you said, that you've gone thru the carbs.
But, on the hunch, could be the igniting coil on the stator thats bad??
Sure more people tomorrow, will shed more light...but, try rectifier thing, see what happens....:cheers:
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robin savell lloyd
Active Member
If stator is not sending signal your tach will not work. 1 wire from stator goes to tack the other goes to rectifier if I am not mistaken. You will see this in service manual. :cheers:
Gunsrunner
New Member
Stator
Just to show you how bad it gets when water gets into stator housing,
I found that 1 of the wires going to the stator had corroded through, the motor would run up to 3000-4000rpm but no further. Replaced stator all is good.
Just to show you how bad it gets when water gets into stator housing,
I found that 1 of the wires going to the stator had corroded through, the motor would run up to 3000-4000rpm but no further. Replaced stator all is good.
imnothot02
New Member
wowzers that isnt good!
Well i disconnected the 2 wires and it still acts the same.
Mpem...?
I'm racking my brain on you Speedster because your right in between the years where my sources for research keep swapping back and forth, so I'll just ask a couple simple questions.
First....the mpem is the acronym for mulit-purpose electronic module. Second, I didn't think they were installed on any models prior to 1996. The mpem replaced the electronic control module (ecm). I would like to know, do you have the mpem or the ecm? The way you can tell, if not by looking on the lanyard, where the lanyard cap has a foam floaty that states "DESS", is when you connect your safety lanyard, do you hear 2 audible beeps? Second, does your lanyard cap have a small metal plate and your post, does it have a small metal ring around the middle and a metal (no push) button at the top? There are differences between these two but I think you have the ECM.
"Engine just dies"........you say you went through the carbs. Your description sounds like the accelerator pump...but your model carbs weren't equipped with them. The carbs are specific to their cylinder. Though the two look the same, they are not. The PTO carb and the MAG carb are jetted differently. Did you interchange any of these parts on the carbs?
Lastly, did you check to ensure the carbs were syncronized to each other? Carbs that are out of sync from each other will perform as you are describing.
The 657cc engines were used in a few more boat applications after your model. They are used mostly in the Explorer in a couple more years after the 95 Speedster. Very reliable engines. Sounds like you got great compression too.
The seal on the mag cover. Your a mechanic, I don't think I have to give you any insight there. You already know it was a shooty job. Do the checks on your rpm gage as Robin described. Clean and dry your magneto in that engine, get it running as soon as you can to heat it up and dry it out. You'll want to check the charging circuit on it when it's running. Same way as you'd check the alternator on your car.
There is some great advise here from the forum members. It seems everyone has had something to give you. I hope your up and running soon with what these members have suggested..........:cheers:
I'm racking my brain on you Speedster because your right in between the years where my sources for research keep swapping back and forth, so I'll just ask a couple simple questions.
First....the mpem is the acronym for mulit-purpose electronic module. Second, I didn't think they were installed on any models prior to 1996. The mpem replaced the electronic control module (ecm). I would like to know, do you have the mpem or the ecm? The way you can tell, if not by looking on the lanyard, where the lanyard cap has a foam floaty that states "DESS", is when you connect your safety lanyard, do you hear 2 audible beeps? Second, does your lanyard cap have a small metal plate and your post, does it have a small metal ring around the middle and a metal (no push) button at the top? There are differences between these two but I think you have the ECM.
"Engine just dies"........you say you went through the carbs. Your description sounds like the accelerator pump...but your model carbs weren't equipped with them. The carbs are specific to their cylinder. Though the two look the same, they are not. The PTO carb and the MAG carb are jetted differently. Did you interchange any of these parts on the carbs?
Lastly, did you check to ensure the carbs were syncronized to each other? Carbs that are out of sync from each other will perform as you are describing.
The 657cc engines were used in a few more boat applications after your model. They are used mostly in the Explorer in a couple more years after the 95 Speedster. Very reliable engines. Sounds like you got great compression too.
The seal on the mag cover. Your a mechanic, I don't think I have to give you any insight there. You already know it was a shooty job. Do the checks on your rpm gage as Robin described. Clean and dry your magneto in that engine, get it running as soon as you can to heat it up and dry it out. You'll want to check the charging circuit on it when it's running. Same way as you'd check the alternator on your car.
There is some great advise here from the forum members. It seems everyone has had something to give you. I hope your up and running soon with what these members have suggested..........:cheers:
Well by your description I am willing to guess I have just a ECM. On my lanyard the is no DESS and I have no beeps when connection it only when I try to start in forward gear. As for the engine issue I got motivated tonight and just pulled engine. Upon pulling it I found that apparently the engine was rebuilt by a real idiot. None of the bolt has any thread locker and most weren't even to spec. After pulling it I pulled off the flywheel to find it wasn't even tight and low and behold the stator was bouncing all over the place and was damaged by the flywheel. But the area of the stator and its function/operation is where I am not very knowledgeable. I've rebuild many chevy and ford blocks and have done several top end rebuilds on various ski motors but have never had to deal with a stator before. What does it do? Does it control timing? Since it was moving all around would it cause lack of timing advance?
Gunsrunner
New Member
Magneto
It's just like an alterlator, stator(windings) are held stationary on the cover, magneto fly wheel(magnets) spins with the flywheel, this creates the charge. This goes to the rectifier which canges it from AC to DC, Votage regulator controls the voltage of the DC.
Spark timing is controled buy the pick up(signal) and the mpem(timing), the Mpem can be programmed for 4 different level's of advance, this has to be done by a seadoo dealer.ECM in your case!!
Oct7brian, you will nead to get your hands on the workshop manual. IT explains every thing in good detail!!
I dont have your manual, so if i have this wrong please correct me!!:ack:
View attachment 423
It's just like an alterlator, stator(windings) are held stationary on the cover, magneto fly wheel(magnets) spins with the flywheel, this creates the charge. This goes to the rectifier which canges it from AC to DC, Votage regulator controls the voltage of the DC.
Spark timing is controled buy the pick up(signal) and the mpem(timing), the Mpem can be programmed for 4 different level's of advance, this has to be done by a seadoo dealer.ECM in your case!!
Oct7brian, you will nead to get your hands on the workshop manual. IT explains every thing in good detail!!
I dont have your manual, so if i have this wrong please correct me!!:ack:
View attachment 423
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Old school.....
Reading about this procedure brought back memories of working on my 63' Chevy Impala with breaker point ignition.
With what you found up front, you may need to take it to a shop. The magneto in your application is timed manually. You have to have a few special tools to do this. You have to have a TDC (top dead center)gage, you will have to have a way to measure a specific drop when retarding BTDC. You'll need a timing mark tool, Stroboscope type timing light.
When you assemble the woodruff key and magneto, there is a pick up coil. That pickup coil sends the signal to the electronic control module (which is responsible for spark and limiting the revs) then from there, the ECM sends the signal when it's time for the coils to send the spark. During the timing process, you'll have to turn the armature plate, kind of like turning the distributer in the old school way of timing.
You may be able to do some "shade tree" mechanic"ing" on it and come up with a way, but I'd advise you get a manual with the procedure. Models that use the MPEM, don't have to worry with this. The internal components of the engine are designed as "timed". You only have to bring the MAG piston up TDC and time the rotary valve. The MPEM does the rest.
You have your hands full. I hope I've been of some help........:cheers:
Reading about this procedure brought back memories of working on my 63' Chevy Impala with breaker point ignition.
With what you found up front, you may need to take it to a shop. The magneto in your application is timed manually. You have to have a few special tools to do this. You have to have a TDC (top dead center)gage, you will have to have a way to measure a specific drop when retarding BTDC. You'll need a timing mark tool, Stroboscope type timing light.
When you assemble the woodruff key and magneto, there is a pick up coil. That pickup coil sends the signal to the electronic control module (which is responsible for spark and limiting the revs) then from there, the ECM sends the signal when it's time for the coils to send the spark. During the timing process, you'll have to turn the armature plate, kind of like turning the distributer in the old school way of timing.
You may be able to do some "shade tree" mechanic"ing" on it and come up with a way, but I'd advise you get a manual with the procedure. Models that use the MPEM, don't have to worry with this. The internal components of the engine are designed as "timed". You only have to bring the MAG piston up TDC and time the rotary valve. The MPEM does the rest.
You have your hands full. I hope I've been of some help........:cheers:
You call have been very helpful. If I'm understanding what you all said about the stator correctly is that since the stator was damaged and moving all over it would have been unable to send teh correct signal to the ecm thus the spark timing would have been off which in turn would explain why it would die out on me.
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