New To PWC: Beginner Questions

[JJEdmund]

I

So I'm totally new to owning a PWC. I am buying two from a local guy who buys, rebuilds and resales them. I got what I feel is a decent deal on a 2001 rxp and a 2001 gtx pictured above. $4,000 with a double trailer as well.

The gtx I got for my girl and I'll be using the rx primarily. I live in Myrtle Beach SC and we will mainly use in the Intracoastal Waterway and on local lakes as well. I have some general questions as I'm a total newbie when it comes to PWC.

These are both two stroke so obviously there is a gas oil mixture. I was told by some people to pre mix and the guy rebuilding them said you don't have to pre mix. He didn't elaborate. Is he saying I can just put x amount of oil in and then put the gas in afterwards?

Secondly, he told me he would give me a discount if I bought the batteries myself to put in them as he did state they would both need new batteries and to be cleaned up. Any opinions on good batteries that will be reliable for these? Also, is there a good compound that I could clean these up with? I have a buffer just not sure what would be best to clean these up with?

The rxp has modded jets on it so according to this guy, it will go faster than normal but he said don't let it idle too long or it will drink gas and can be a problem when you go to accelerate. Anyone else have modded jets or larger jets on there PWC and can give any advice?

Last thing and I apologize for being a pest and such a newbie, but I like to do things right. What are the main things I need to do after riding to ensure I get the most life out of them before they break down? Being rebuilt 2001 models, I'm going to have problems at some point but want to do the right maintenance so I can take care of them properly. Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much in advance!!

 

[Ckrawiec]

I View attachment 48026View attachment 48027

So I'm totally new to owning a PWC. I am buying two from a local guy who buys, rebuilds and resales them. I got what I feel is a decent deal on a 2001 rxp and a 2001 gtx pictured above. $4,000 with a double trailer as well.

The gtx I got for my girl and I'll be using the rx primarily. I live in Myrtle Beach SC and we will mainly use in the Intracoastal Waterway [Salt water] and on local lakes [Fresh water} as well. I have some general questions as I'm a total newbie when it comes to PWC.

These are both two stroke so obviously there is a gas oil mixture. In a "standard ski", that still has the original oiling system, there is NO MIXING of the gas and oil until the oil is squirted into the carbs during operations. Many people FOR SOME REASON believe that the oil injection system/pump are un-reliable and they convert the ski over to pre-mix, meaning the pump is disabled and oil is added to the gas tank and you hope you are maintaining the proper ratios, etc.....there is NOTHING inherently wrong with the factory setup and should be kept if at all possible. Going pre-mix will just cause you to use more oil than probably necessary. I was told by some people to pre mix and the guy rebuilding them said you don't have to pre mix. He didn't elaborate. Is he saying I can just put x amount of oil in and then put the gas in afterwards? - Not if the original oil pumping system is still intact.....look inside and see if the 2 thin oil lines go from the front of the engine to the carbs (they are 3/32" tygon lines)...if they are still factory painted....you should replace them as they get dry and brittle.

Secondly, he told me he would give me a discount if I bought the batteries myself to put in them as he did state they would both need new batteries and to be cleaned up. Any opinions on good batteries that will be reliable for these? YAUSA batteries are good but people have found decent batteries at WalMart and/or Amazon. Also, is there a good compound that I could clean these up with? I have a buffer just not sure what would be best to clean these up with?

The rxp has modded jets on it so according to this guy, it will go faster than normal but he said don't let it idle too long or it will drink gas and can be a problem when you go to accelerate. Anyone else have modded jets or larger jets on there PWC and can give any advice? - I think he's telling you that someone has mucked about inside the carbs and changed from the factory jets.....you could go back to stock sizes and NOT have to worry about that.

Last thing and I apologize for being a pest and such a newbie - NO apologies necessary....we all started out as a newbie at some point..., but I like to do things right. What are the main things I need to do after riding to ensure I get the most life out of them before they break down? - If you are mixing between Fresh and Salt water....you NEED to flush the skis out with fresh water after EVERY SALT water adventure and fogging the cylinders won't hurt either. Being rebuilt 2001 models, I'm going to have problems at some point but want to do the right maintenance so I can take care of them properly. Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated.

The best advise I can give you is this....either rebuild them yourself (or have a competent person rebuild them)...BUT servicing the carbs will go a long way to having good working skis. Basically, good batteries and good carbs will = a good life....assuming all things mechanical are already in good order.

ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS TOO, don't be shy! Welcome aboard!

Thanks so much in advance!!

 

[mikidymac]

And never buy a ski that doesn't run. You can buy batteries but don't exchange any cash until you hear them both run.

You should also check the compression in them before buying to see the health of the engines.

 

[JJEdmund]

Thank you so much! Bunch of great info there!

As far as the mixture, what’s the easiest way to do it? Put the ratio of oil in and then add the gas behind it? Since I’m not going to pre mix? Thanks again great info!!

 

[JJEdmund]

And never buy a ski that doesn't run. You can buy batteries but don't exchange any cash until you hear them both run.

You should also check the compression in them before buying to see the health of the engines.

Yea this guy and I have a bunch of mutual friends I’m not too worried about him screwing me and he has like 50 Pwcs around his shop that he’s rebuilding. But I’ll definitely bring batteries with me and see them run before I leave. Thank you!!

 

[JJinSC]

Thank you so much! Bunch of great info there!

As far as the mixture, what’s the easiest way to do it? Put the ratio of oil in and then add the gas behind it? Since I’m not going to pre mix? Thanks again great info!!

Thank you so much! Bunch of great info there!

As far as the mixture, what’s the easiest way to do it? Put the ratio of oil in and then add the gas behind it? Since I’m not going to pre mix? Thanks again great info!!

If the factory oil injection system is still active, there is no mixing needed. Just keep the oil reservoir filled with the the appropriate oil. Do not mix brands and not TCW oil.

I live in Myrtle Beach too. If you do not go north of the bass pro landing or south of thoroughfare Creek (Sandy island) in the intracoastal, you will not need to flush. If you do but come back in between those points to take out, you are flushed. But I would still rinse every thing off externally well. If you stay between those points, the water is fresh.

 

[JJEdmund]

If the factory oil injection system is still active, there is no mixing needed. Just keep the oil reservoir filled with the the appropriate oil. Do not mix brands and not TCW oil.

I live in Myrtle Beach too. If you do not go north of the bass pro landing or south of thoroughfare Creek (Sandy island) in the intracoastal, you will not need to flush. If you do but come back in between those points to take out, you are flushed. But I would still rinse every thing off externally well. If you stay between those points, the water is fresh.

Yea I live in little river so I’ll always be going north of bass pro to get home. So I’ll have to flush it every time. Which is no problem I don’t mind it.
What brand oil do you recommend? Thanks for the info!!

 

[JJinSC]

Yea I live in little river so I’ll always be going north of bass pro to get home. So I’ll have to flush it every time. Which is no problem I don’t mind it.
What brand oil do you recommend? Thanks for the info!!

I still use the Sea-Doo xps full synthetic. I think the engines in your models require full synthetic API/TC low Ash oil as well. If you can, find out what kind is in there. If it is the correct rating you can stay with it, but if not. Drain and clean the system and then put the correct kind in. Make sure and bleed the system if you drain it. Don't mix brands.

 

[GGuillot]

I don't even know where to start. Definitely hand over NO money until you see/hear them run and have him verify cylinder compression on each ski. Ask him if he rebuilt the entire engine (crankshaft included). Ask him if he rebuilt the carbs with OEM kits. Then ask yourself how mechanically savvy you are working on stuff. Jumping in at $4K on some 951 skis is a lot to chew on for a newbie. Not that they are bad skis, but they are at the top of the food chain and are high strung and less forgiving than the lower displacement 2 strokes.

 

[Ckrawiec]

I don't even know where to start. Definitely hand over NO money until you see/hear them run and have him verify cylinder compression on each ski. Ask him if he rebuilt the entire engine (crankshaft included). Ask him if he rebuilt the carbs with OEM kits. Then ask yourself how mechanically savvy you are working on stuff. Jumping in at $4K on some 951 skis is a lot to chew on for a newbie. Not that they are bad skis, but they are at the top of the food chain and are high strung and less forgiving than the lower displacement 2 strokes.

Nothing like jumping into the DEEP end of the pool right off the bat! No GUTS, No Glory!

 

[JJEdmund]

I don't even know where to start. Definitely hand over NO money until you see/hear them run and have him verify cylinder compression on each ski. Ask him if he rebuilt the entire engine (crankshaft included). Ask him if he rebuilt the carbs with OEM kits. Then ask yourself how mechanically savvy you are working on stuff. Jumping in at $4K on some 951 skis is a lot to chew on for a newbie. Not that they are bad skis, but they are at the top of the food chain and are high strung and less forgiving than the lower displacement 2 strokes.

Define your quote "they are at the top of the food chain." lol....Also, I'm not super tech savvy but I can do some things. Also, less forgiving in what regard? Thanks for the info!

 

[mikidymac]

Seadoo made the 951 engine which both of the models you are asking about have as a last hurrah for the 2-strokes. They make a ton of power for a two cylinder 2-stroke and were caught in the evolving emissions standards. Because of this the crankshafts are highly stressed as are the other engine components. They have the shortest life span of the seadoo engines just because they are so high output. They can't tolerate any water ingestion and are a lean burn engine which does not go hand in hand with long 2-stroke engine life.

So yes they are good powerful engines but they require the proper oil, fogging after every ride and spotless fuel systems and carbs and no water ingestion. So basically they are very high maintenance.

 

[JJEdmund]

Seadoo made the 951 engine which both of the models you are asking about have as a last hurrah for the 2-strokes. They make a ton of power for a two cylinder 2-stroke and were caught in the evolving emissions standards. Because of this the crankshafts are highly stressed as are the other engine components. They have the shortest life span of the seadoo engines just because they are so high output. They can't tolerate any water ingestion and are a lean burn engine which does not go hand in hand with long 2-stroke engine life.

So yes they are good powerful engines but they require the proper oil, fogging after every ride and spotless fuel systems and carbs and no water ingestion. So basically they are very high maintenance.

Very good info and great to know and I appreciate it. Can you elaborate on the fogging process? I'm willing to do the proper care and maintenance to get the most out of them. And after awhile, I think worst case scenario if I keep them in good shape, I should have no problem getting my 4k back on both of them and a trailer. In theory at least...Thanks again for all the good info!!!

 

[mikidymac]

I don't know how the market is in your area but those are pretty sun bleached skis and the seat covers are in bad shape and mismatched. I just don't see them being $4K skis, seems high to me.

On the newer 951's there is a 1/8" fitting on the airbox that you spray fogging oil into after you get home for a ride to coat the internal engine parts with oil to prevent corrosion. Ont he older ones you have to pull the air box and it is a royal pain in the ass.

For some reason the 951 engines develop condensation inside the engines ater riding and it greatly shortens the life of the engines so fogging helps to prevent this.

 

[JJEdmund]

I don't know how the market is in your area but those are pretty sun bleached skis and the seat covers are in bad shape and mismatched. I just don't see them being $4K skis, seems high to me.

On the newer 951's there is a 1/8" fitting on the airbox that you spray fogging oil into after you get home for a ride to coat the internal engine parts with oil to prevent corrosion. Ont he older ones you have to pull the air box and it is a royal pain in the ass.

For some reason the 951 engines develop condensation inside the engines ater riding and it greatly shortens the life of the engines so fogging helps to prevent this.

I will say he's replacing the seat covers. I told him for a lower price I'd clean them up and buff them myself and all that. The metal trailer coming with them is probably a 600-700 trailer so I'm really paying about 1,650 a ski. But that's good to know about the fogging. Does sound like a pain in the ass. We'll see how long I last with these skis is my first ones lol

 

[mikidymac]

FYI: If the silver is oxidized it will never buff out and get nice again. It has something to do with the metallic in it and is the only color that you can't really restore to like new.

 

[GGuillot]

The metal trailer coming with them is probably a 600-700 trailer

I'd have him throw in the aluminum trailer that RX sits on at the $4K price, you don't want a metal trailer, within a few seasons it'll start rusting, sometimes from the inside out, and a dip in salt water? Forget it..

 

[MoDawg73]

Very good info and great to know and I appreciate it. Can you elaborate on the fogging process? I'm willing to do the proper care and maintenance to get the most out of them. And after awhile, I think worst case scenario if I keep them in good shape, I should have no problem getting my 4k back on both of them and a trailer. In theory at least...Thanks again for all the good info!!!

I did some research on the Fogging process, and this is what I decided would work for me.

I drilled two holes in the air box directly in the middle of the carb mounting holes. Then I put some 3/32 tygon fuel tubing in the holes, and used adhesive sealant to secure them in place. Then I put a tee fitting between them and attached another length of 3/32 on the third end of the Tee. Now when I am done, I just hook up the fogging oil can to the line, and squirt until it dies. Easy implementation, and only adds a minute or two to my loading procedure.

My original plan was to put the Tee in the accelerator pump circuit, but I became afraid of the check valve that would be needed to stop the gas from coming out of the fitting I was adding. So I decided against that option. Maybe I was just chicken, but I don’t like the idea of gas getting loose in the engine compartment

Also, as a fellow newbie who started his adventure last year, I can’t tell you how much I have enjoyed the challenge of rebuilding the skis. Rebuild your own carbs, using Genuine Mikuni parts. I have removed my carbs now three or four times, and can get them off in about 10-15 minutes. Read and follow your manuals.

And the guys who really know their stuff on here are great,and very selfless with their time and knowledge. I could not have gotten on the water without them. My hat is off to Miki and Etemplet and all the others who have helped and continue to help!

Good luck, and enjoy the challenge! I have found it unbelievably rewarding!

Ken

 

[mikidymac]

I did some research on the Fogging process, and this is what I decided would work for me.

I drilled two holes in the air box directly in the middle of the carb mounting holes. Then I put some 3/32 tygon fuel tubing in the holes, and used adhesive sealant to secure them in place. Then I put a tee fitting between them and attached another length of 3/32 on the third end of the Tee. Now when I am done, I just hook up the fogging oil can to the line, and squirt until it dies. Easy implementation, and only adds a minute or two to my loading procedure.

My original plan was to put the Tee in the accelerator pump circuit, but I became afraid of the check valve that would be needed to stop the gas from coming out of the fitting I was adding. So I decided against that option. Maybe I was just chicken, but I don’t like the idea of gas getting loose in the engine compartment

Also, as a fellow newbie who started his adventure last year, I can’t tell you how much I have enjoyed the challenge of rebuilding the skis. Rebuild your own carbs, using Genuine Mikuni parts. I have removed my carbs now three or four times, and can get them off in about 10-15 minutes. Read and follow your manuals.

And the guys who really know their stuff on here are great,and very selfless with their time and knowledge. I could not have gotten on the water without them. My hat is off to Miki and Etemplet and all the others who have helped and continue to help!

Good luck, and enjoy the challenge! I have found it unbelievably rewarding!

KenView attachment 48086

That is a great idea on fogging and would work on all models. I took the lazy way out and bought the newer 951 airbox that has the fogging port from Westside Powersports, LOL.

 

[JJEdmund]

Ok guys, I have some more questions. I appreciate all the responses and help thus far. I'll slowly but surely get the hang of owning a PWC.

1. The attached photo of oil is what I planned on buying for my 01 GTX and RX. Good, bad, other oil preferred?

2. I was told both run off of a number 16 battery. But when I went to buy one, they told me there are multiple number 16 batteries and they'd need the old one to get me the right one. I bought these without batteries the guy put a test one on so I could see them run but I told him I'd buy batteries myself because he was charging too much. Any idea what specific model of 16 batteries these run off of?

3. The matts on the rx are toast. I need to buy new seadoo matts. Where is the best place to get replacement ones and also, what's the best way to remove the old ones and put new ones down? I was told by the guy that sold me that he normally takes a drill bit and drills through the matts and pulls them off that way. I can't really picture how that works.

4. The gauges on the rx are shot. GTX are fine but I need to replace the gauges. I'm assuming if you buy replacement gauges they come with a wiring kit or harness and you just remove some plastic, pop it in and get new covers? Can't be that easy though right?

Anything else anyone sees from the photos that I might need to know would also be cool. Again I apologize for being such a rookie with these basic ass questions.

Thanks guys!

 

[mikidymac]

Yes that’s the correct oil.

I can’t believe the guy couldn’t even throw a new set of spark plugs in for you.

For batteries I like the yuasa YTX-20-HLBS-PW from Amazon $79.

For mats Hydroturf with pressure sensitive adhesive already installed from PWC Muscle and they have a forum discount.

You pop the rubber plugs of the mat rivets then drill them out and use a punch to push the remainder into the hull. Fill the holes with BondoGlass from Walmart. Once it starts to gel scrape off the excess with a new razor blade and you don’t have to do any sanding. Clean with acetone and install the new mats.

You also are missing the rubber carb water deflectors on both skis you’ll need to replace them.

 

[GGuillot]

1. The attached photo of oil is what I planned on buying for my 01 GTX and RX. Good, bad, other oil preferred?

The XPS oil is fine, that's what you want, full synthetic. May need drain the old oil, wouldn't hurt to replace injection lines while you're at it.

Any idea what specific model of 16 batteries these run off of?

Pretty much all the 2 strokes run the 16 size battery, CL16, EXT16, YB16 etc. I'd buy an AGM battery, you won't need to worry about losing acid if you toss the ski around. I bought a flooded battery for the GSX last year and had to fill it several times after I figured it out it was losing acid. AGM this year. I bought a Deka EXT16L from amazon. Pay close attention to which end the positive and negative posts are, you can buy them flipped the wrong way.

I need to buy new seadoo matts. Where is the best place to get replacement ones and also, what's the best way to remove the old ones and put new ones down?

Either Hydro Turf or Blacktip, put it in a search. I prefer the Hydro Turf mats, and you can get a decent discount using the code HYDRO15 if you go through the sponsored vendor PWC Performance Parts Discounted - PWCMuscle.com. I used a diegrinder to get the mats off, cut them down flush, drill the rivet out and fill with an epoxy type product like Marine Tex. Clean the surface with acetone and buy the peel and stick option mats.

The gauges on the rx are shot. GTX are fine but I need to replace the gauges. I'm assuming if you buy replacement gauges they come with a wiring kit or harness and you just remove some plastic, pop it in and get new covers? Can't be that easy though right?

I've never seen gauges that look that bad, search ebay or call westsidepowersports. Should be easy to remove, unplug the old and plug in the new.

Judging from the rust, at least one of your skis needs new spark plugs. Last word of advice, I personally wouldn't even put them in the water and run them without going through the fuel system, rebuild the carbs with OEM kits, new fuel lines, new fuel selector, etc. And draining and refilling oil in the jet pump. The last thing you want is to have them run like shit and lean out, oil lines break, or fill up with water on your first trip. I understand you bought them seeing them run, but that's about it, it's a whole different challenge when it's underload in the water and bouncing all over the place.

 

[GGuillot]

I can’t believe the guy couldn’t even throw a new set of spark plugs in for you.

I noticed that to, it's the small things that can send a bad vibe about the rest of the ski.

 

[mikidymac]

I noticed that to, it's the small things that can send a bad vibe about the rest of the ski.

Totally agree.

 

[JJEdmund]

Yes that’s the correct oil.

I can’t believe the guy couldn’t even throw a new set of spark plugs in for you.

For batteries I like the yuasa YTX-20-HLBS-PW from Amazon $79.

For mats Hydroturf with pressure sensitive adhesive already installed from PWC Muscle and they have a forum discount.

You pop the rubber plugs of the mat rivets then drill them out and use a punch to push the remainder into the hull. Fill the holes with BondoGlass from Walmart. Once it starts to gel scrape off the excess with a new razor blade and you don’t have to do any sanding. Clean with acetone and install the new mats.

You also are missing the rubber carb water deflectors on both skis you’ll need to replace them.

I'm with you on the plugs. Thanks for the heads up on the battery and the oil!