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New to me Challenger 1800 - Broke Reverse cable. Advice?

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BlixemMike

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Hi all,

I just got a new to me 1997 Challenger 1800. On our second day out, as I was trying to 'park' it on the trailer, I was moving the reverse handle in and out of forward/ neutral/reverse (too aggressively) as I tried to steer in. With 3 meters to go, snap. Suddenly no control of the reverse gate.

Here is an image of what happened. The last 1/4 inch of the cable's thread broke off.
So question:
1) Do I MacGyver a fix and rethread the cable etc etc
2) Buy a new cable for $160US?

Thanks
Mike
20180513_171437.jpg
 
Personally, i'd just go ahead and buy a new cable. To me, that doesn't really cost that much and would be more of a headache to try to do it myself. If you're a handy guy, by all means! To me, I could MacGyver it, but it'd end up costing me more and involve a lot of time and effort that could be better spent enjoying the boat and not worrying about having messed up.

But your issues is quite interesting. I have a 2012 model but I noticed similar issues on mine when around the docks and shifting between forward and reverse frequently. Since docking does require that and a lot of input steering, I've found myself constantly struggling switching between forward and reverse. Sometimes it's super stiff and requires a lot of force, where as other times it gets completely stuck and I can't change. I've come VERY close to hitting the dock hard because I was physically unable to get out of either reverse or forward, on several occasions. Wasn't sure if that was normal and occurs when the steering wheel was is turned all the way and changing between forward and reverse, or a cable getting caught. But I will go check mine out see.
 
I'd get a new cable for sure, not that reverse is critical cause it works like chit any way but adding more thread might make it so you can't adjust it to the right spot
hard because I was physically unable to get out of either reverse or forward, on several occasions. Wasn't sure if that was normal and occurs when the steering wheel was is turned all the way and changing between forward and reverse, or a cable getting caught. But I will go check mine out see.
Do you have separate throttle and f-n-r sticks on your 2012? On the early ones you can't move the F-n-r stick unless the throttles are all the way back. When the steering wheel is at full lock it adds alittle throttle to help in steering. If it is hard with the throttles pulled back it's probably the cable or something bound up in the shifter or at the bucket
 
I'd get a new cable for sure, not that reverse is critical cause it works like chit any way but adding more thread might make it so you can't adjust it to the right spot
Do you have separate throttle and f-n-r sticks on your 2012? On the early ones you can't move the F-n-r stick unless the throttles are all the way back. When the steering wheel is at full lock it adds alittle throttle to help in steering. If it is hard with the throttles pulled back it's probably the cable or something bound up in the shifter or at the bucket

@snikwad003 Just want to make sure I understood what you said, you're asking if I have one lever for f-n-r and another 2 throttle levers, one for each engine? If so, I don't. I have only 1 lever that handles throttle for both engines and f-n-r. Can be convenient but also has its times where id rather have asymmetrical powering to help me turn.

For my boat, its a drive-by-wire, so I have features like cruise control, ski mode (can select how hard the boat accelerates to a selected top speed), docking mode (results in the entire throw of the throttle lever being restricted to a max of 3500 RPM as to not accidentally launch the boat into the dock). So with that system in place, I have feeling you're right in that it has something to do with the buckets.
 
The drive by wire stuff is pretty slick. Your sticking could be the shifter, reverse cable, or the buckets.
 
It definitely has it's moments! Great when I want to ski and enjoy the water and able to let someone else drive, who isn't as familiar with the boat as myself. The only downside is that the person driving needs to be competent enough to push AND hold down a button to activate the system, once the engines are on. I can't activate the system otherwise and on the boat. Once the system is activated, the driver needs to put the throttle lever all the way down and the computer takes over. If they don't actually activate the system, they end up applying full 430hp on me and feel like they're ripping my shoulders out of my socket in the split second I realize what happened and have to let go. At that point, need a new driver that can follow my simple instructions or read the instructions on the digital display.

But with a full load, having a individual throttle levers would help SO much in turning. I tend to list quite a bit when turning right and have a large turning radius. If I try to turn has hard as I do turning left, the boat lists enough that I suck air into my port jet intake and wears out my SC faster.

Pros and Cons to both. But help manage the power in my boat, and teaching others to drive, drive by wire helps a lot. But I do wish I had the older style controls since I don't like other people driving, unless qualified, and wouldn't feel obligated to let them drive if they see 3 shifters ;)
 
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