New owner '95 speedster

[A1CNC]

Hello,
I have plenty of experience from years of wrenching but new to seadoo. My first top end was on a '73 Hodaka dirt squirt. Anyone remember those?

I just traded a running 120hp sportjet 95 Baja for a 95 speedster. The speedster is a boat I have always wanted. I didn't expect much other than the hull and trailer are in decent shape.
The PO told me it was dead electrically but it ran 2 years ago and he paid to get it winterized. Sounds ok so far. I got it home and port engine turns over by hand starboard Uh Uh. Pulled the plugs and the pistons on the starboard side look BRAND new like never even fired looking. Looking down in with a flexible light I saw rust on the cylinder wall so OFF WITH YOUR HEAD! Sure enough both cylinders are rusty. I will have to pull the cylinders to even see if the crank is rusty. So off with the port side too. Broke 2 head bolts in the front cylinder but the cylinders and pistons look good.

Question I have on the electrical side is, He told me he eliminated the dess. Is that even possible on these? Maybe that's why the starters wouldn't do anything. The rest of the electrical items worked, Bilge, fan, lights.

He also tied the battery cables together to presumably use 1 battery. Is that a good idea?

The shift cable is pretty sluggish, can these be lubricated some how?

TIA for any replies,
Eric

 

[be_a_jayhawk]

I'm certainly no expert, I'm just getting started on my first project boat. But, any chance you can take a pic of the inside of the electrical box? I'm curious why he would bypass it unless maybe it has mpem issues.

 

[A1CNC]

I can do that tomorrow for you. It's dark now

 

[JeremyD615]

The 95 Speedster didn’t have the DESS system, so that’s not your problem, and it’s a good indication that the PO was feeding you a line...

If there is rust on the cylinder walls and the pistons are shiny, it’s been run with some water in the cylinder and steamed itself clean. To be honest, I’d probably just plan on either rebuilding or buying a rebuilt motor for that side. Of course you’re going to want to go through the fuel system and all of the water lines before you put a new motor in it. Sometimes these engines can be saved, but rebuilds are fairly inexpensive, and you’re not going to be throwing money at a lost cause if you go that route.

The batteries being tied together is fine. I run one large battery in mine, but be aware that you’re going to have to either pull the pipe or the oil tank to get that battery in and out once you do that. I cut a bit of the fiberglass out of the area around the storage tray and made a trap door so that I can get it out without disassembling everything.

The shift cables can be lubricated. You’ll pull the throttle quadrant out and then have to use a cable Oiler like you would use for a dirt bike.

 

[A1CNC]

Thanks for the reply, Good to know there was no dess. I know what an engine that has run with water looks like and this is definitely brand new pistons not steam cleaned.
The side that was not stuck I can see clearly one carb was running just about perfect by the piston wash and the other was running a tiny bit lean.

I am definitely going to thoroughly inspect both engines before I light them off. If I see any indication of water or rust in the lower ends out they will come.
I have one of those cable lubers good to know they can be lubed up.
I noticed there is a safety switch on the shift cable for neutral. Would that stop the starters from working if not engaged or just not fire?

 

[JeremyD615]

The neutral safety switch will cut power to the solenoid, so that’s a definite possibility. You usually get a solid beep when you try to start and it’s not in neutral though, at least you do if your buzzer is working.

 

[A1CNC]

Pulled the engines apart today. The port side will be fine once I get the broken head bolts and the seized exhaust manifold bolts out. It helps to be a machinist with your own machine shop sometimes.
The starboard engine is still up in the air. I was able to get the mag side cylinder off but the pto one is stuck. It is almost in the tdc position so I am worried there is rust below the piston but for now soaking with pb blaster to see what happens. Once I got the first cylinder off the crank will move some now easily telling me that other cylinder is what the major issue is right now. I cannot see enough of the crank to tell it's condition though.

 

[A1CNC]

Well I figured out the side that was stuck has been bored 2mm oversize. The bore measures 80mm. So If the 2nd cylinder shows pitting like the first one I am going to either re-sleeve, get replacement cylinders or another engine. Crap!