New guy in Knoxville Tennessee with a 1995 Seadoo w/717 engine...any advice?

[Kevingearhead]

Hello PWCMuscle!

New guy here in Knoxville, Tennessee! Okay...picked up a 1995 XP from one of my friends, she had this poor XP sitting behind her house with the foot wells full of water (actually had tadpoles squiggling around in there!)...bought it for $300 with Seadoo trailer, she swears it was winterized FIVE YEARS AGO! Figured its only $300 bucks and I love "projects". I have been surfing the web and have learned a few things...I have already replaced ALL the fuel lines with 1/4" and 5/16" and hose clamps respectfully, removed the fuel tank and cleaned completely, removed and cleaned the fuel level/baffle (fuel level slides with ease now)! I have replaced all of the clear plastic tubing with the correct sizes also. I have ordered the OEM Mikuni carb rebuild kit for both carbs because when I removed them and took them apart they both had ruptured fuel pump diaphragms and just a little bit of varnish in them...not much, but for just $100 I got both rebuild kits with new needles and seats, etc, etc,. Also have a brand new battery still wrapped up from Sam's just waiting to get installed. I would really appreciate any advice from member as I go forward. FYI...I do have a Seadoo manual and Seedoo parts manual downloaded that I have been reading to familiarize myself with the flushing, R&R of components, specs, etc....please do not hesitate to email me and/or give me any advice as I go. Thanks, Kevin in Knoxville, Tennessee

PS: The seat on this XP is terrible! Would not put my tail-end on this thing at all...anyone have any ideas for either replacement or recover?

 

[Coastiejoe]

Hello PWCMuscle!

New guy here in Knoxville, Tennessee! Okay...picked up a 1995 XP from one of my friends, she had this poor XP sitting behind her house with the foot wells full of water (actually had tadpoles squiggling around in there!)...bought it for $300 with Seadoo trailer, she swears it was winterized FIVE YEARS AGO! Figured its only $300 bucks and I love "projects". I have been surfing the web and have learned a few things...I have already replaced ALL the fuel lines with 1/4" and 5/16" and hose clamps respectfully, removed the fuel tank and cleaned completely, removed and cleaned the fuel level/baffle (fuel level slides with ease now)! I have replaced all of the clear plastic tubing with the correct sizes also. I have ordered the OEM Mikuni carb rebuild kit for both carbs because when I removed them and took them apart they both had ruptured fuel pump diaphragms and just a little bit of varnish in them...not much, but for just $100 I got both rebuild kits with new needles and seats, etc, etc,. Also have a brand new battery still wrapped up from Sam's just waiting to get installed. I would really appreciate any advice from member as I go forward. FYI...I do have a Seadoo manual and Seedoo parts manual downloaded that I have been reading to familiarize myself with the flushing, R&R of components, specs, etc....please do not hesitate to email me and/or give me any advice as I go. Thanks, Kevin in Knoxville, Tennessee

PS: The seat on this XP is terrible! Would not put my tail-end on this thing at all...anyone have any ideas for either replacement or recover?

Welcome aboard.. Sounds like you are on your way to at least finding out what you have...
I have a funny feeling it will fire up and run ok for some reason...

One thing I would do is pull the plugs and turn it over by hand just so you know it is not seized up.

If you have specific questions hop over to the 2-Stroke forum so that the right people see the questions..

 

[Kevingearhead]

Hey coastiejoe, thanks for the vote of confidence! I was (retired AF) in the Air Force working on aircraft and aircraft equipment so I'm right at home working on anything with a sparkplug or fuel...you brought up something I've been looking for an answer too...I've seen TWO references to which way I should turn the crank...which way do you suggest and which is the best way to rotate the crank and pistons? Have not done this yet, would rather do this correctly than to "mis-align" the crankshaft by accident. Thanks! Kevin

 

[Coastiejoe]

Hey coastiejoe, thanks for the vote of confidence! I was (retired AF) in the Air Force working on aircraft and aircraft equipment so I'm right at home working on anything with a sparkplug or fuel...you brought up something I've been looking for an answer too...I've seen TWO references to which way I should turn the crank...which way do you suggest and which is the best way to rotate the crank and pistons? Have not done this yet, would rather do this correctly than to "mis-align" the crankshaft by accident. Thanks! Kevin

2-strokes don't care which way you turn them over. SO whatever is easier for you.
Pull the plugs, spray some oil into the cylinders as it has been sitting so long and see what you get. I'd try it by hand first rather than the starter just in case it snags up...

 

[Minnetonka4me]

good point...before you go nuts here make sure the motor is in good health. Make sure it isnt stuck, then make sure the the electronics work and you can crank the motor, then do a compression test. I would have done that before I put a $1 into it.

If the engine is ok then all the stuff you have done or are doing is right on track.

On the seat if the foam is all chunked out all you can do is buy a replacement. It isnt all that easy to find a nice OEM one, and shipping isnt cheap. If its just the cover and all the foam is there, there are many replacement options out there.

I have TONS of parts for your ski, so if you need anything do not hesitate to ask.

Welcome to the best Seadoo site on the web!

 

[Kevingearhead]

Hey Minnetonka4Me! Thanks for the reply. I figured for the few hundred bucks I got in it I was okay with this. How could I check the electronics? once I get the rebuild kits I will do the compression test. Wouldn't have any seats available would you? Thanks, Kevin

 

[racerxxx]

good point...before you go nuts here make sure the motor is in good health. Make sure it isnt stuck, then make sure the the electronics work and you can crank the motor, then do a compression test. I would have done that before I put a $1 into it.

If the engine is ok then all the stuff you have done or are doing is right on track.

On the seat if the foam is all chunked out all you can do is buy a replacement. It isnt all that easy to find a nice OEM one, and shipping isnt cheap. If its just the cover and all the foam is there, there are many replacement options out there.

I have TONS of parts for your ski, so if you need anything do not hesitate to ask.

Welcome to the best Seadoo site on the web!

Just ship a seat foam minus the pan. They fold up real flat, ups shouldn't hit you bad either. I paid UPS $85 coast to coast for my seat with the pan.



Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Good Idea on the shipping just the foam!

I dont have any nice OEM seats...I do have a one thats all miscolored but is in one piece.

Just hook everything up, put a battery in it and give it a shot! You dont need intake or exhaust on an engine to do a compression test. At the very least take the plugs out and try to turn it by hand.

I bought a parts one from a guy who went and did a bunch of work to it, come to find out the engine was rusted solid. Lucky for me all the brand new parts were just tossed into the hull.

 

[Kevingearhead]

Okay, came out to the garage squirted some PB Blaster into the cylinders and at first was kind of a bitch to get turning...finally got about 3/4 rotation before it feels like it just locks up. Not what I wanted. Any secrets in turning this by hand? My hands feel like chicken claws already!! I'm really hoping if Ikeep squirting and keep turning it should free up. What would keep it from doing a full 360 rotation? Thanks for anyones feedback! Kevin in Knoxville

 

[Kevingearhead]

Okay...guess what??!! I found out why I couldn't get 360 degree...ready for this...when I took the carbs offi stuffed some clean rags into the intake manifold. Well the rags were pushed to far ad this kept the piston from going to BDC. Pulled the rags out and now I have complete and easy 360 rotation!! BTW...just got my rebuild carb kit in and just rebuilt both carbs (that's how I figured out the issue!). Okay...next up is reinstall the carbs, linkage, etc and the compression test!! Sometimes its the littliest of things huh?

 

[Coastiejoe]

Stuffing line (aka rope) into the cylinder is how we suggest stopping a motor from turning over when working on the crank bolt.

Guess rags work too huh,,,

Sounds like step by step you are getting there.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Stuffing line (aka rope) into the cylinder is how we suggest stopping a motor from turning over when working on the crank bolt.
Guess rags work too huh,,,
Sounds like step by step you are getting there.

I think Kevin put the rags there to keep out any dirt after he removed the carbs. Probably forgot about them and turned the crank by hand. The stoppage reminded him about the rags.....that's my guess.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I think Kevin put the rags there to keep out any dirt after he removed the carbs. Probably forgot about them and turned the crank by hand. The stoppage reminded him about the rags.....that's my guess.

I'm sure that is exactly what happened.

Glad he didn't try to force it when it did stop.

 

[Kevingearhead]

Yes! You guys are correct! Just like a good responsible gearhead, I stuffed two clean red shop rags down into the intakes...Little did I realize the rags actually pushed down and past the piston skirt. And yes, I am very very very glad I DID NOT force the crank! That's why I reported (thinking it was in the timimg/stator assembly) as soon as I realized the crank wouldn't turn...but then realized my error after I rebuilt the carbs and removed the rags and they wouldn't come right out! Tomorrow I will re-install the carbs and linkage. Any idea on the oil filter? Autozone perhaps? Thanks guys, Kevin

 

[LouDoo]

There is no replacement for the oil filter that I know of, because of the freight, your best bet is your local dealer.

Lou

 

[Kevingearhead]

Lou, that little filter looks just like similar filters at Autozone. I can get one from the local seadoo dealer, just thought I would ask. Kevin

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Lou, that little filter looks just like similar filters at Autozone. I can get one from the local seadoo dealer, just thought I would ask. Kevin

MAKE sure it's for oil and not gas. I asked Dr. Honda that same question and that's the answer he gave me. I found NO replacement to BRP oil filter at any auto parts store.....buy OEM only about $12-$13 for it....cheap insurance.

 

[Kevingearhead]

Okay Seadoobuddy, you got it! You are absolutely correct...what's a $20 bill for insurance to make sure I've got the correct filter?!

 

[Minnetonka4me]

I sell them for $12.

The rag wasnt hitting the piston, you were hitting the rag with the rotary valve. If you turned the crank the other direction is would have come right out. You were very lucky you didnt force it, you would have bent the valve.

 

[Kevingearhead]

Hello Seadoo Forum!! I am back and apologize for the delay in reporting back...I have since ordered the correct Seadoo in-line oil filter on Ebay (sorry Minnetonka4me I did not see your post)...I have rebuilt my carbs, replaced all the fuel lines, and I mean ALL of them, replaced all the clear hoses also...BTW, once I removed the rags I was able to turn the crank by hand and the engine turns so smoothly. I can hear the suction from the oil injector and all is good...put new battery in and hooked everything up and the VTS is inop...removed the cover and of course there is rust from condensation where the XP has been sitting outside for the last how ever many years...took the VTS motor out and now I am looking for a VTS motor assembly and a new VTS switch...anyone have one for sale? I would rather support this forum instead off ebay. Also looking for new handlebar grips, a seat or cover? and the two piece cover over the steering. Saw a "cover" that zips over the existing...any good or should I just order a new one? I get my email to my phone much easier than logging onto the forum...my email is Kevingearhead@yahoo.com...thanks! Kevin in Knoxville

 

[Minnetonka4me]

I got pretty much everything you are asking for.

On that handlebar cover...finding a mint one is almost impossible. Finding a bright one with small mildew spots is even starting to get hard although I have a few. The zip on covers are nice, but I have found the black turns grey quite fast.

On the VTS, you will want to put power directly to the motor and make sure it doesnt move. Just b/c its crusty doesnt mean anything. The housings are just as suspect so you will want to do a little more troubleshooting before you order parts.

 

[Kevingearhead]

Hey Nick! getting ready to fire up the XP next weekend...man I cant wait! Was wondering...there is a guy who is selling 2 gallons of Amsoil Interceptor Synthetic 2 Stroke oil her in Knoxville for $50...is this a good 2 stroke oil for the XP 717 engine? I still have the oil injector hooked up (which I DO want to disconnect and run pre-mix) having any suggestions? I really want to disconnect and run pre-mix...which would you suggest? should I pick up the Amsoil and do a pre-mix? and BTW...anyone out there ever needing parts...PLEASE give my friend nick at Minnetonka4me an email...super nice, super knowledgeable and great with PWC advice!