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new 240 hp install
- Thread starter kiosk
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Agree with Doc. It's not as bad as it seems. Just took my 210hp Merc out and changed out the seal between the engine and drive. As mentioned you have to take off the hatch (hinge too). I found it easier to disconnect the small water hoses that are connected to the top of the exhaust chamber. One on each side. Also the 210 (not sure about the 240hp) hangs slight aft end down. Be careful not to let the engine mounting face scrape on the mounting studs. It's not hard to keep it level you just have to get into the Bilge. Line up the aft bolts with the holes and slowly lower. There is just enough room to get a pair of channel locks in to turn the drive shaft to line it up. Be careful not to scrape the shaft. I put duct tape on the pliers. Good luck.
thanks
I have a load leveler . I will post pics as soon as the bug in this site are gone.I got this boat as a repayment of a debt to me of $1500 and I had a merc mechanic refit with a remanufactured block then after I drop in the motor he will set up and tune so Boat, Block with setup and tune cost me $5700. Its a 2001 that was used for 3 years and run dry of oil, sat in a garage for 11 years.Its in mint condition and still has factory inspection stickers on hull.
I have a load leveler . I will post pics as soon as the bug in this site are gone.I got this boat as a repayment of a debt to me of $1500 and I had a merc mechanic refit with a remanufactured block then after I drop in the motor he will set up and tune so Boat, Block with setup and tune cost me $5700. Its a 2001 that was used for 3 years and run dry of oil, sat in a garage for 11 years.Its in mint condition and still has factory inspection stickers on hull.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
post up some pics when you get the chance. Oh... there is one thing that has come to mind... make sure your engine hoist is long enough to reach in. Some of the standard lifts are a little short. I had to add about 8" to mine, and then counterbalance it so it didn't fall forward.
Here's my engine going in.
Here's my engine going in.
I have a hoist and load leveler but once I got it inside the compartment it took about 2 hours to get set on bolts . I came back the next day to tork down to 35flbs only to realize i had to do it with a wrench , no room for a tork wrench.I will post mor pics of the project and boat later.
Everything went very smooth but still took 2 hours once motor was in place. the motor was an 1/8 " away from seating in the aft so I lifted ,shaked ,push and pull until I finally decided to begin to bolt down and as soon as i added the first bit of bolting pressure it dropped right in to place.Also If any one is going to install 240 HP M2 EFI in a 2001 1800 Challenger be advised to remove the exhaust expansion chamber top two cooling hoses as recommended by TOMFRMNH earlier in this thread(thanks tom,I wish I listened to you).Getting a Tourk wrench in place to work is impossible so I had to do that by feel.I hooked up the water , turned the key and it started right up. With the new block I did the recommended add 3 quarts of premium plus to 40 gal fuel tank.So the next move is in the water any suggestions on breaking in the new engine.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Just one question... did you put oil in the top oil tank?? (just don't want to see you run it dry)
As far as the break-in....
1) Go to a lake, and put the ass end of the boat in the water.
2) start it, and wait for water to flow out the pee hole. (verify that water is flowing)
3) Let it idle for a couple minutes, and make sure that the heads don't feel overly hot. (once again, just making sure you have water flowing) Also... check for any water/fuel/oil leaks.
4) Once satisfied... pull the boat off the trailer, and run it at a low RPM for a couple minutes... and once clear... open that throttle all the way for 10 seconds or so... and then bring it back to an idle, and coast to a stop.
5) Shut it down... and check it again for any leaks.
6) If everything is still good... go enjoy the boat. Try to vary the RPM's, and avoid full throttle for more than a few seconds at a time during that first tank.
BUT, DO NOT BABY THE ENGINE EITHER !!!!! The Merc recommended break-in is STUPID. If you baby it the way they want you to... the rings will never seat. Basically... enjoy... don't abuse.
As far as the break-in....
1) Go to a lake, and put the ass end of the boat in the water.
2) start it, and wait for water to flow out the pee hole. (verify that water is flowing)
3) Let it idle for a couple minutes, and make sure that the heads don't feel overly hot. (once again, just making sure you have water flowing) Also... check for any water/fuel/oil leaks.
4) Once satisfied... pull the boat off the trailer, and run it at a low RPM for a couple minutes... and once clear... open that throttle all the way for 10 seconds or so... and then bring it back to an idle, and coast to a stop.
5) Shut it down... and check it again for any leaks.
6) If everything is still good... go enjoy the boat. Try to vary the RPM's, and avoid full throttle for more than a few seconds at a time during that first tank.
BUT, DO NOT BABY THE ENGINE EITHER !!!!! The Merc recommended break-in is STUPID. If you baby it the way they want you to... the rings will never seat. Basically... enjoy... don't abuse.
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Yes filled top oil tank 75% than started motor and unscrewed top oil tank lid to check oil alarm and to see if I had oil sending hoses connected properly and both were working,tank filled right and alarm sounded untill I put cap on tank tight.the motor stayed super cool .Does water only come out the bypass hole when boat is in the water becaus nothing came out when hooked up to the hose.there is a prety good gas smell in engin compartment after being closed for a day , I checked for leaks, loose hoses etc. and found none. is this normal?
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
The fuel smell in the bilge is totally normal. (assuming there isn't a puddle of gas in the bottom) This is EXACTLY why there is a bilge fan. You need to run that for a minute or so, to draw in fresh air before starting the engine. Bilge explosions do happen. Not to mention... if you look around this section... you will find threads about guys who have hard re-starts when warm. Basically... they don't run the fan, and the bilge doesn't have enough air to let the engine run. (so, normal)
With the Merc's... unless you have a hose, with a lot of flow... and a lot of pressure... you won't push enough water into the engine to get it out the bypass. AND... since you aren't getting water out of that pee hole... you really don't have enough water to cool the engine. SO... DO NOT run the engine long on the hose.
Basically... the flush port is in the base of the engine, just above the feed hose from the jet pump. SO... a lot of the water from your garden hose will come out the feed line. I know it's kind of stupid... but it's to "Back Flush" the feed, and to push out any thing, like chopped up grass, that you may have shoved in there while out riding. I've personally thought about adding a second flushing fitting to the top of the heads. That way, the garden hose water will fill the block, and will let you keep the engine cool while on the trailer.
FYI... if you continue to run it on the hose... your temp alarm will kick on.
On that note... make sure BOTH of your buzzers work. The one mounted in the hull is the seadoo buzzer... but there is a second buzzer that it taped on the wiring harness, near the key... and it's for important things, like the over temp.
With the Merc's... unless you have a hose, with a lot of flow... and a lot of pressure... you won't push enough water into the engine to get it out the bypass. AND... since you aren't getting water out of that pee hole... you really don't have enough water to cool the engine. SO... DO NOT run the engine long on the hose.
Basically... the flush port is in the base of the engine, just above the feed hose from the jet pump. SO... a lot of the water from your garden hose will come out the feed line. I know it's kind of stupid... but it's to "Back Flush" the feed, and to push out any thing, like chopped up grass, that you may have shoved in there while out riding. I've personally thought about adding a second flushing fitting to the top of the heads. That way, the garden hose water will fill the block, and will let you keep the engine cool while on the trailer.
FYI... if you continue to run it on the hose... your temp alarm will kick on.
On that note... make sure BOTH of your buzzers work. The one mounted in the hull is the seadoo buzzer... but there is a second buzzer that it taped on the wiring harness, near the key... and it's for important things, like the over temp.
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Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Sorry I missed it before.
Just pull the sender, and hook it to a meter. It should be "Open". Then put it in a pot of water... on a stove, with a thermometer in it. Turn the heat on, and watch the meter and the temp. When it hits 210 or so... then the sender should close, and that trips the alarm.
If you have 4 wire sender... then it's a little harder... but the resistance should change as it gets hot.
Grounding the wire at the sender should trip the temp alarm.
Just pull the sender, and hook it to a meter. It should be "Open". Then put it in a pot of water... on a stove, with a thermometer in it. Turn the heat on, and watch the meter and the temp. When it hits 210 or so... then the sender should close, and that trips the alarm.
If you have 4 wire sender... then it's a little harder... but the resistance should change as it gets hot.
Grounding the wire at the sender should trip the temp alarm.
Hay Dr Honda
No worries you have been and continue be a great help. I still havent put it in the water because I want to check every thing.I know you said not to run for extended periods of time on the hose input but I did run for about 5 minutes at idle only 3 times to set timming etc (i had to reduce to 1000 rpm from 1800 because of no drag on impeller) and it ran so cool I could lay my arm on the head, is this a fals read or is it hotter inside and it does not transmit to out side .Even after I shut down and continued to flush through hose port it did not heat sink at all. Thanks again for all your help
No worries you have been and continue be a great help. I still havent put it in the water because I want to check every thing.I know you said not to run for extended periods of time on the hose input but I did run for about 5 minutes at idle only 3 times to set timming etc (i had to reduce to 1000 rpm from 1800 because of no drag on impeller) and it ran so cool I could lay my arm on the head, is this a fals read or is it hotter inside and it does not transmit to out side .Even after I shut down and continued to flush through hose port it did not heat sink at all. Thanks again for all your help
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