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Need Help Please!!!!

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Eric22174

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Hi, my name is Eric. I am currently trying to fix up my girlfriends parents 1996 Challenger jet boat. I am having a guy (not certified) come out today
*May 8, 07* to look at the boat and/or engine to see what the problem maybe. The previous owner (father) said that the engine locked up, and believes it was because the boat was not winterized properly one year. The boat has sat for over four to five years. Im guessing there are fluids still in it. The actions that will be taken are drain the fluids and replace the battery. What should i look for further? I am at a loss right now. I just don't wanna give up on a perfectly good jet boat when it could be something minor.
 
Welcome to the seadoo forum Eric. It could be a lot of different things keeping it from turning over. There aren't any real fluids to change except the injector oil and the fuel. As far as the engine being locked up, I would put a little Marvel Mystery oil just a couple oz down the cylinders to add some lubrication to the pistons, rings and lower end bearings. Take the spark plugs out, put the spark plug caps on the grounding posts, good habbit to get into. On the rear of the engine is a rubber boot down low, that covers the impeller shaft to the jet pump. Loosen up the clamps, slide the boot back and see it the engine will turn over by hand. If it does that is a great sign. Look inside the impeller jet pump from the rear and just observe that there isn't anything in the jet pump...blockage...mice...ect.( it's been sitting a while, you never know). If it isn't free use a pipe wrench and see if it will turn over with a little pressure from the wrench on the shaft. Be carefull not to slip and hit you hands or damage the shaft. Let us know how you make out up to this point and we'll supply you with more advice depending on what you find doing what I suggested. Keep us posted.

Karl
 
Ok...so here is the status. I removed the battery completely. I am charging the battery to see what kind of charge i get. I removed the spark plugs and used WD-40 to lubricate the cylinders. I then used a pipe wrench to turn the shaft, but i did not remove a rubber piece. Therefore i think i was turning the wrong part. What i did do was remove a plastic cover that was secured by two wing nuts. I then turned what i thought was the shaft (silver color part). I turned this part several times just to loosen up the tension. I then had a friend of mine look in through the rear of the boat as i was turning the shaft and they said there was no movement when looking through the rear. I cleaned out mostly leaves and webs from the rear of the boat. What can i use to clean the rest of the debris that i can not reach? I am letting the cylinders dry over night. It is raining right now. Im leaving the boat uncovered maybe the rain can clean the boat. What should i do further?
 
Eric, that cover with the 2 wing nuts is jut above the shaft of the Jet pump. The shaft is inside the rubber boot just behind the cover with wing nuts. It should turn clockwise. I would put some Marvel Mystery Oil (couple oz.) in the cylinders as the wd-40 won't lube isn't as good. Put the spark plugs back in the holes to keep water or anything else from getting in there. Let it soak for a while. Clean out the jet pump of all the debris. Use a garden hose or a stick to get all the crap out of the pump. Then try to get the engine to turn over at the shaft in the rear of the engine. Usually it will turn with your hands...if you have to, try a pipe wrench to add some force. Be careful not to slip and hurt your hands or break something. Let me know how you make out to this point. Did the mechanic ever come over to check it out? Keep me posted and we'll go from there.

Karl
 
Thanks for the info. The mechanic came out today, but it started to rain hard when he arrived. I stayed out in the rain working on the boat until it started getting unsafe when climbing on and off the boat. I will be happy when this is all done with. I am going to Autozone later on to get the mystery oil. I will work on the boat tomorrow. Thanks Karl.
 
Mystery oil....

Yes Eric....that's it. In the early days (the 1970's), it was used by putting it in your gas. Worked like injector cleaner........it cleans the carbon deposits around your valves and will also loosen a sticky set of rings.
When you remove the 2 wing nuts on the shaft cover, remove it and the shiny shaft you see is where you should be connecting your pipe wrench. Normal rotation on that engine is counter clockwise. But, with the plugs removed, it really doesn't matter which way you turn it. With the Mystery oil sitting in it for a few hours, try rocking it back and forth with the pipe wrench till you free it up. Don't use to much force.
Although I agree with Karl about the amount of oil you should need to free it up, it's not going to hurt to put large amounts in there to allow it to soak across the bottom of the crankshaft to help free the roller bearings. If you put the entire can in there, let it sit for 24 hours. Then, when you try rocking the crank back and forth, it may free up.
If you get it free, make sure you put a towel over the plug holes. Your going to have to spin the motor over a good bit to try and blow out as much of that oil as you can.
PB Blaster is good stuff too!.........I found out through experience from another member and have since used it to free up a Suzuki motor in an Artic Cat that I was working on.....that stuff is awesome too. I put it in the plug holes and sprayed it liberally down the throats of the carbs.........
Good luck!.......:cheers:
 
Photo's

I think a photo can speak a thousand words!!

The plastic cover or PTO cover,
10052008 00211.jpg
The drive shaft(the rusty bit) the silver bit at the back is part of the carbon seal and will turn, it spins against the carbon ring to stop water coming in, it is only stopped by orings between shaft and collar.
10052008 00511.jpg
The impeller the silver blades at the back, the brass blades are the stator,
10052008 00611.jpg

After 4 to 5 years i dont think the battery you are charging will hold charge good enough to start the engine, but worth a try!
Another good way to tell if the engine is turning is to place a straw in the spark plug hole and watch for it to go up and down, check both. This way you can check piston rods(conrods) and make sure they are not broken!
 
Thanks guys. I am going to use a good bit of mystery oil like skatman said. I went out and bought some PB Blaster as well. Thanks, for the visual Gunsrunner. I now have a good understanding on what to turn now. I will attempt to use the straw suggestion. After taking the old battery to a battery shop on a military facility there voltmeter/continuity reader was saying the battery was in good condition, but it was borderline on being weak. Im thinking after a couple failed start attempts the battery will be trash. I will keep you updated. PS: The battery reading was something like 11.6
 
Ok....someone kill me now. Here is the status. I went out put 8oz of Marvel Mystery oil in EACH of the spark plug holes. I applied di-electric grease inside the spark plug caps. I reinstalled the original spark plugs, and secured the spark plug caps over the plugs. I then reinstalled the negative and postive battery terminals. After, that i loosened TWO hose clamps that secure the rubber boot over the shaft. I tried my best to pull back the boot, but could not get my pipe wrench on the shaft. The color of the shaft underneath the boot was black. What size wrench do I use? Even after all of this i figured just for giggles i would check and see if the boat would turn on haha. I placed the lanyard on the DESS post and i heard nothing. No beeps, No long beeps. What do i do now? When i had both terminals installed i heard and felt air coming through the ventilation ducts. I am not really mechanically inclined, but what do i do now?
 
Eric, Use an adjustable pipe wrench. It has an adjustable jaw that will grab the shaft and allow it really bite on it to get it to turn. Remove the spark plugs and put the caps on the Grounding studs, and leave the plugs out to make it easier to turn over by hand, if it will turn over. If you get it freed up than I would move on to why it won't beep. I could go into lots of details and you will get lost real quick. Get it to turn over first and we'll go from there. If the engne is seized and will not even think of turning over it won't matter if the electrical is bad or not. Get it freeded up and then we'll go to the next step.

Karl
 
I took the boat to a marine boat specialist and after a short look he said "This boat needs about $5,000.00 dollars worth of work. He said "The engine needs to be rebuilt. The carbs are bad the piston rods are probably corrided and, the crankshaft is done for. So i am debating on what to do. Is there an upside to this at all? Should i buy a new less expensive less performance engine? What about a short block engine? He said he has alot of short block engines comeback blown up, especially the ones made with all parts from China. please advise.
 
Here's a solution...find a new mechanic! $5000.00? If you want you could contact" www.sbtontheweb.com "for a core replacement. It will still run you under $1000.00, but not near his estimate. Contact them and explain the condition of you old engine and see what it might cost to swap it out for a re-manufactured engine. Look the seadoo over real close, is it worth spending any more money on this one or just upgrade to a newer one that is worth investing in. Keep us posted.

Karl
 
dang man, I just baught my frist jet boat myself, having new wear rings carbon steel and all that stuff, both sides..., plugs wires, a complete check up all for $500...BUT I got lucky and found the old owner of the local Sea Doo dealer...
 
Thanks Karl, I was looking at the rebuilt re-manufactured engines and parts and the estimate the mechanic gave me seems a little far fetched now. I will call www.sbtontheweb.com and see what recommend. I just don't know what i need by looking at the boat. It's still a safe bet to say by fixing this boat i will save more money then buying a new one.
 
Eric, Do you have someone that will do the swap for you or are you going to do it yourself? I would double check to be sure you know everything needed to install the replacement engine complete. This way you will know exactly what you will be up against to meet the final goal...being on the water. Be sure it is in budget and you or the install will have the ability and knowledge to get it done! I would also review the order with one of the techs at sbt just in case you forgot something. Order your new motor from SBT, then, when it gets there, you have 10 days to remove everything from your motor and put it on the new one, then put it back in the crate and mail it back to them. It's really a great way to re-do your motor.
You'll need a gear puller to remove the PTO magneto etc...a gasket set for the carbs, exhaust etc...
You can look at the SBT website and on the page for your motor, they show you a list of other things you'll need. Like I said check with a sbt tech to review your order. Keep us posted with your progress, and as always we are here if you get in a jam.

Karl
 
Cheaper to exchange !!

imnothot02 said:
IDK how hard it is, but I was told that they arnt to hard to rebuild, keepwhat ya got nad rebuild em!
Click to expand...

You could keep what you have and rebuild it...parts alone would be like$1000.00 plus the labor to replace everything...and no 2 year unconditional warranty.

Karl
 
Hold on a minute, you say this machanic quoted $5000 to do the fix:ack:
But your going to trust him that the motor needs replacing, before you go ahead and order from sbt pull the motor out so you can have a better look at it yourself, that way it is already out if you do need to order and you will have a better undistanding of what it will take to do the swap.
Also the carbies are not cheap new(285 + 295) so only if you can get them second hand will be cheap(thats if they need replacing)
 
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