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need help on restarting after warm up??

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burns5150

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hey guys,new to site.....got a problem,after running ski for a while(which runs great for as long as you ride without stopping),when you stop and sit on a warm engine,it will not crank back up.what i've been doing to get it going is remove plugs,squirt mix gas in plug holes,replace plugs,and crank.at this point,it may or may not stay running.either it will idle,but as soon as you give it throttle,it dies.or it may surge and then ease off until it soon takes off then runs great(until next stop).i've noticed that in some cases,that if i remove the return fuel line,it will start,then shut down.its not fowling plugs or running bad gas.i've been told that it may be carbs,vents or stuck choke.help guys! im lost on this one......
 
Does it have Gray fuel lines? if so they need to be replaced with black fuel lines available from like Auto Zone, you will need like 14 feet. Measure to be sure, and bring a sample with you when you get some. The carbs need to be cleaned(I think that model has 2), pay special attention to the internal filters in the carbs. If you don't tear or damage the diaphragms you won't have to buy a rebuild kit, but if you do need parts go to http://www.seadoowarehouse.com/ , and get the parts you need.

Karl
 
great site karl(seadoo warehouse),i need a few of those smaller items!.......explain the gray fuel line thing for me....i seen this talked about this on here before.did the fuel line have problem or deterate issues?i will check the carbs for sure....sounds like my next step.how does "heat" seem to effect the start up issue,is it some sort of "vapor lock" type problem maybe?it runs perfect once going,and opperates at about 45-47 m.p.h.......plugs are dry but do appear scorched,but dont go bad........
 
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The fuel lines deteriate from the inside and leave residue in the fine internal carb filters. In most cases cleaning you carbs and replacing you fuel lines corrects this type of problem. Also new plugs gapped properly...NGK BR8ES, gapped to .024" I would also do a compression test to check out the internals of the engine. Ideally it should be at 150 psi. Let me know if you need proper way to perform a compression test.

Karl
 
thanks karl,i will give that a look and get those lines changed,sounds like a problem fixer.and a little carb work sure beats a long day being stuck floating down river,you know what i mean:ack:
 
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