need help in diagnosis of no start problem 2006 seado0 speedster 150/215 no beeps

[Skibby]

Dear Forum Experts, I am new to the forum, with a minor problem ( I hope) !

after storing my seadoo speedster for about 7 months, (ran fine when put into storage)

with a new full charged battery. no beeps when insert the DESS start cord.

a slight movement on some of the gauges, and a slight hum / buzz from the

engine fuse box. Part 204 470 770 ??

Checked all fuses , and replace two one in the "engine compartment fuse box" and
one in the main fuze box behind the dash panel

everything else works, with the exception of the bilge pump.

Is the problem the "engine fuse box" ?? does is have a "relay sealed in" that
can prevent engine start or diagnostic beeps ??

 

[griz400]

u stored it with a fully charged battery ??? or do u have a new battery now, - sounds like u need a battery

 

[Skibby]

No beeps , no start ??

I stored without the battery in place. put in a New Battery fully charged to 13.1 volts.

last year bilge pump not working. replaced two fuses ( don't know why blown) both
3 amp fuses. ran fine when put into storage.

now No beeps, but gauges move very slight, and no start. a little hum from the
engine fuse block ( sealed unit) check all connections and fuses, look OK

Is there any diagnostics that can be done, other than dealership ?

 

[griz400]

souns like a loose or corrodded ground somewhere, try and disconnect battery (both cables), then hold them together for about 10 seconds (this is a capacitor discharge), then hook back up and see, but seriously sounds like a ground somewhere

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Skibby - Welcome to the forum

I agree with griz.
You said you had a new fully charged battery when you stored it. It probably discharged. Have you tried to charge it? If not, then try it and get it load tested at any auto parts store (usually free) and then try again to start it

We are both in Michigan. "Question" - Why are you trying to start it in December...just testing it?

You are suppose to use it during the summer and store it during the winter.......LOL..

 

[RFoster130]

SDB...once again you fail to read everything..... :boxing_smiley: In post #3, Skibby's 2nd post and a reply to Griz, he states " I stored without the battery in place. put in a New Battery fully charged to 13.1 volts. "

I think its safe to say his battery didnt discharge when he stored it.

Skibby, since you say you get some gauge movement, i would think the grounds are good, but check them to make sure. Even though the battery is new...take it back and have it load tested, stores have been known to sell bad batteries. Also since you arent getting any beeps, make sure the lanyard is getting a good connection. Did you actually try to push the start button or did you just put the lanyard on?

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Rich - When I posted I was #3 after griz. I was called away from the computer for a several minutes then went back to finish the post. So I wasn't to see Skibby replies.

 

[devonte007]

I agree, sounds like a bad ground, or one that is not hooked up. On my boat there are 2 back cables that need to be hooked up to the negative terminal on the battery and only 1 red positive cable. I once forgot to hook up the second black negative cable and got the same buzz/humming from the fuse box in the engine compartment that you seem to be experiencing. The negative cables slide down under the engine and can be easy for forget. Check this first and let us know. If this does not fix things then we'll try to dig a little deeper.

 

[RFoster130]

Rich - When I posted I was #3 after griz. I was called away from the computer for a several minutes then went back to finish the post. So I wasn't to see Skibby replies.

ill give you credit this time...just because you got my name right. :thumbsup:

 

[Skibby]

Thanks for your post ! Yes to all but load test. I cleaned the post and dess lanyard with emery cloth, and the connection continuity is good
Also pulled all fuses, wiped and re-inserted. I seems like the gauges that would swing over very hard and then return are getting a lower voltage than usual. Nothing happens when the start button is pushed, and a slight hum from the "engine fuse block". the boat is
in the Caribbean, but all wiring and connections look good. It is at the local dealership for diagnosis, but they can't figure it out.
the replaced the "engine fuse block" and the "Main fuse block in the gauge area, but nothing. Last I heard was they are guessing
wiring harness went bad in storage. ( Highly unlikely) ! The battery checks a very good 13 volts and the exhaust fan switch runs the
blower with a lot of gusto. so battery in not the issue. I will attempt to retrieve from Dealership and do some connection cleaning
myself . Would appreciate any forum suggestions !!! Thanks again Skibby

 

[Skibby]

Reply from Skibby regarding problem still a mystery

Thanks for your post ! Yes to all but load test. I cleaned the post and dess lanyard with emery cloth, and the connection continuity is good
Also pulled all fuses, wiped and re-inserted. I seems like the gauges that would swing over very hard and then return are getting a lower voltage than usual. Nothing happens when the start button is pushed, and a slight hum from the "engine fuse block". the boat is
in the Caribbean, but all wiring and connections look good. It is at the local dealership for diagnosis, but they can't figure it out.
the replaced the "engine fuse block" and the "Main fuse block in the gauge area, but nothing. Last I heard was they are guessing
wiring harness went bad in storage. ( Highly unlikely) ! The battery checks a very good 13 volts and the exhaust fan switch runs the
blower with a lot of gusto. so battery in not the issue. I will attempt to retrieve from Dealership and do some connection cleaning
myself . Would appreciate any forum suggestions !!! Thanks again Skibby

 

[Skibby]

Ok thanks ! great idea. It is at the dealership here in the Caribbean, but they cant figure out the solution , even through they are the local dealership !!!! I will go over, but when I hooked up the battery in my 2006 15/215 Sportster it was only only black cable .

Boy I sure hope it could be that simple !!!!!

 

[Dennis]

devonte007 is heading you in the correct direction.

 

[JFizzleJR]

the humming sound you're referring to is likely the fuel pump priming

 

[Skibby]

Thanks for the great information regarding ground circuit solution !! when I went the the dealership after they had it in diagnosis for 3 days

after replacing both fuse blocks and checking numerous connections and fuses, I mentioned to the "service manager" that it could be
that all the ground wires were not connected to the battery terminals.

They called the next morning and said, come pick up your boat !!! there is no charge and it is running fine.

thanks again.

but now my fuel gauge does not work, and the bilge pump either.

thanks for the help skibby

 

[griz400]

so, it was a ground i guess, so u stated they replaced both fuse blocks and bilge pump and fuel guage not working, --- check the new fuse blocks, (both) and im bettin there is a missing fuse or (2), cause im in auto industry, and when we replace tipms, fuses are missing from time to time, --- depends on "options" boat has or doesnt have -- or possibly they blew a fuse during diagnostics procedures

 

[Skibby]

Problem Fixed about starting update

Thanks for all the help guys !!!

They did not replace the fuse boxes, they put the old one back on.

But the bilge pump not working was a previous condition , and still is not working
even with power right from the battery. keeps blowing fuses, so I thing there is a dead
short ????

Checked all fuses, they are all ok, but the bilge gauge, she no work now ??

Will try to replace fuel pump, does anyone know if it can be just lifted out or is it in
with "pop rivets"

thanks again guys

 

[devonte007]

Hey Skibby,

Glad to hear that the dealership was able to find the original problem and it was just a simple forgotten battery cable. Sounds like they were even a bit embarrassed after you pointed this out to them. I'm sure not one to gloat though, made the same mistake myself which is how I was able to help you out!

First off, sounds like the bilge was not operational prior to the dealership working on the boat, but the fuel gauge not working is a new issue? lets just assume for now that the fuel gauge not working is simply coincidence and not related to anything the dealership did. Also, I assume you meant to say 'fuel gauge' in your last post not 'bilge gauge'?

If the bilge pump is blowing the fuse when you switch it on then the motor is likely ceased up or short circuited and just needs to be a replaced. This should be easy and cheap to accomplish. Had to do the same thing to the blower fan in my boat, motor ceased up, kept blowing fuses; replaced fan and have not had a problem since. You should be able to find a replacement bilge just about anywhere, its pretty standard equipment at any marina.

Fuel Gauge Issue:

1. How did you determine that the fuel gauge is not working? How much fuel is in the tank now and what are the symptoms?
2. Are all the other gauges working (tach, spedo, warning lights)?
3. Do all the gauges light up when you turn the boat lights on etc.? Does the fuel gauge light up when you turn on the boat lights? (even though the lights should be completely unrelated to the gauge not reading, I believe the gauges have a common ground for the lights and gauge function. Non operational gauge lights could point us to a bad ground for instance. Most likely unrelated but never hurts to cover all bases to get an overall picture of whats going on)

The reason I ask these questions is that we need to determine if the gauges (and specifically the fuel gauge) are getting power. I suspect the dealership was working around in the console fuse box when you had it in for the original problem and they could have dislodged some of the gauge cluster wires back there which could in turn cause the fuel gauge to not work. Need to determine if there is a problem with the gauge or the sending unit (fuel pump).

Check these preliminary things first before pulling the pump out of the tank, no sense in creating unnecessary and costly work. Electrical issues can be a real pain to diagnose, but you need to be diligent, thorough, and follow a logical process down to the root of the cause. I always like to start at the top and work my way down as systematic as possible. I am not an expert on diagnosing fuel gauge problems, so it may be helpful to open up the repair manual (downloadable from this site if you do not already have one) and review the diagnostic procedure they have for the fuel gauge which I am sure is in there somewhere.

If you can provide this additional information it will help us narrow down the exact cause. Good luck!
--Deven

 

[Skibby]

Thanks for the help !! That was it, missed the second ground wire. Dealership had it for almost a week and never through to check that out.

got the boat back , no charge !

need to replace the bilge pump, an issue that was there before the start issue.

thanks again guys !!

 

[Skibby]

Thanks for the good advice. Boat is back in storage until March. It is in the Caribbean ! I will check to see if the "fuel gauge" lights up
with the other dash gauges. I did check and re-insert the fuel gauge wires, thinking the dealership might have knocked them loose.
but I like the idea that if the light does not work it could be a wire and not the sending unit. The dealership did remove the center seat
which might indicate the messed with wires from the fuel float. the tank is about 50% full. Boat runs great with exception of
a shorted out bilge pump ( does not run even if temp touch direct to battery) .

do you recommed OEM or just get a aftermarket pump like Rule ??

thanks again for your help

skibby

i do not check my internet daily, so if you don't get an timely response, it will come eventully

 

[devonte007]

I think the OEM bilge pump is actually a rule pump, but I could be mistaken. In any case, I would recommend any good brand that can be hooked up for manual or automatic control. I think the new Rule pumps have an electronic sensor for detecting water rather than the old mechanical floats. Seems like a better design and less of a chance of failure from getting gummed up, etc.

When you get around to working on the boat again just check back in and we'll do what we can to help you out...

 

[Skibby]

Thank you for your kind offer, Love Chicago but don't get there much anymore, one of my daughters that lives in the Cayman Islands used to live on Randolf above Marche Restaurant. Now I have to go the the Caribbean to visit ! thats why I keep a the boat there.

I lucked out,( I think), looks like the bilge pump in my 2006 is a "Johnson Brand" and a local Dealer had a "replacement motor" that might lift right out for $20 bucks, The dealership and online was $175, so I was going to go the RULE way.

won't know until I get down there and see if that works ????

I have never paid that little for anything for a boat or "marine" before - looks like a turn and lift with two black tabs on the top of the bilge?? Thanks for your help and all the good advice from all the guys . PS my boat looks just like yours but say's "Bert's Boat" in the back.