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Need help, how to remove wear ring?
- Thread starter johnhibbs
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Double07
New Member
there are 2 nuts that secure the steering cable housing on to the wear ring housing. You only need to remove one (it looks like you have removed it from your pictures). If you have disludged the wear ring housing from the pump, the wear ring housing should slide off of the cable housing. If it is fused to wear ring housing, I would use some WD40 on it and give it a little wiggle. You may want to back off the other nut in the back (you can see it in picture 4), that way, you will have room to wiggle the threaded part of the cable housing out of the eye in the wear ring housing.
Double07
New Member
Standard mercury wear rings are aluminum.
Double07
New Member
The eye on the wear ring housing is not threaded.
It is actually better to leave the old wear ring on the pump until the new wear ring arrives. The wear ring helps support the heavy impeller so that you dont put too much pressure on the bearing and seal at the other end of the impeller shaft inside the pump.
-Chika
johnhibbs
New Member
photos of old wear ring
Got it out. Here's what a 10-year old wear ring looks like after several years of repairing with JB Weld. I finally have decided to replace it with a new one. Do you see the 5 hole pattern in photo 2. The first time I used JB Weld I covered these holes. Big mistake. Those holes provide the water for cooling the engine. Don't cover them. The impeller pumps water through the holes.
Got it out. Here's what a 10-year old wear ring looks like after several years of repairing with JB Weld. I finally have decided to replace it with a new one. Do you see the 5 hole pattern in photo 2. The first time I used JB Weld I covered these holes. Big mistake. Those holes provide the water for cooling the engine. Don't cover them. The impeller pumps water through the holes.
johnhibbs
New Member
I order it from www.boats.net PN 12-856814A2. $463.81 free shipping/no tax. I also ordered the two o-rings that are used on it but it comes with them so you don't need to order them.
johnhibbs
New Member
Here are the photos of the new wear ring:
The hardest part was removing those two large flat head phillips head bolts on the bottom of the boat. PN 10-850047. I ended up drilling the heads off then using a dremel tools with a router to finish cutting the heads off. Next I had to grab what was left with vice grips. That didn't work so I heated the bolt with a plumbers tourch till it was pretty hot and then sprayed penitrating oil on it. After that I was able to get it to turn with the vice grips. I had to do that with both bolts. I bought hex head SS bolts as replacements. I also covered the threads with marine grease before I put them back in. Locktite has some anti-sieze marine compond (PN 34395) for bolts but I used what I had. As long as I was under the boat I decided to remove the grate bolts and add grease to them too. Almost every year I end up sucking a rope into the grate and need to removed the grate and start cutting. You want to make sure you can get those bolts off while everyone is watching and waiting.
The hardest part was removing those two large flat head phillips head bolts on the bottom of the boat. PN 10-850047. I ended up drilling the heads off then using a dremel tools with a router to finish cutting the heads off. Next I had to grab what was left with vice grips. That didn't work so I heated the bolt with a plumbers tourch till it was pretty hot and then sprayed penitrating oil on it. After that I was able to get it to turn with the vice grips. I had to do that with both bolts. I bought hex head SS bolts as replacements. I also covered the threads with marine grease before I put them back in. Locktite has some anti-sieze marine compond (PN 34395) for bolts but I used what I had. As long as I was under the boat I decided to remove the grate bolts and add grease to them too. Almost every year I end up sucking a rope into the grate and need to removed the grate and start cutting. You want to make sure you can get those bolts off while everyone is watching and waiting.
Thank you. I am ordering a grate, i read about 11 tine stailess steel, but can only find:
a 12 tines stailess steel: http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/merc/M-854810T 1.html
or the 6 tines aluminium: http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/merc/M-852962T.html
Which one did you put in your pump?
Thank you,
a 12 tines stailess steel: http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/merc/M-854810T 1.html
or the 6 tines aluminium: http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/merc/M-852962T.html
Which one did you put in your pump?
Thank you,
johnhibbs
New Member
I just tested my boat with the new wear ring and it was really bad. Cavitation and real bad acceleration and poor top speed. I'm taking it all apart to see what might be wrong. I'm going to measure the ID of the wear ring. I was convinced it was a bad wear ring some how when I was on the water. I thought it was strange that the wear ring was painted on the interior. The more I though about it I though the inside diameter would be bare metal. Has anyone else replaced the wear ring? Was the inside surface painted black? Thanks. I was thinking I got a refurbished wear ring that wasn't done right. I called the supplier and they said it was OEM.
Just guessing as you are the pro, but are you sure the impeller is ok?
Good luck!
johnhibbs
New Member
I think you are right Wawando. I just removed the wear ring and it measures good. Not a scratch on the inside black paint though. I do think it is the impeller. My JB Weld repair jobs may have been too thick and worn down the impeller edge. It just ordered a Mc-Cd-22/39 impeller Solar. 3 day delivery. I can get it all back together in 2 hours. I need the boart working pefect for my annual trip to the Colorado River in 2weeks near Blythe, Calif. I will report back as soon as I get it back in the water.
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